Very impressed with the Ken Onion Work Sharp with Blade Grinder attachment

I usually polish the bevel out and when I want a lil tooth I over tension the x65 belt with the pulley on the higher setting...

I forgot to ask this when I saw it before, but what do you mean by higher (and/or lower) setting of the pulley? I thought there was just one way to set this up?
 
I forgot to ask this when I saw it before, but what do you mean by higher (and/or lower) setting of the pulley? I thought there was just one way to set this up?
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Oh, I remember seeing that. I double checked and they call it the "short" or "long" center position based on whether you wanted a flatter grind for straight blades, or you wanted a more convex grind on the curved blades. I think I just set mine in the "Short" position as I didn't have any dramatically curved blades. I never even thought about going back and forth between them based on what I wanted to do with the edge.

Thanks again for the info!

*NOTE: For those looking for a link to the BGA User's Guide, here it is: USER'S GUIDE
 
Oh, I remember seeing that. I double checked and they call it the "short" or "long" center position based on whether you wanted a flatter grind for straight blades, or you wanted a more convex grind on the curved blades. I think I just set mine in the "Short" position as I didn't have any dramatically curved blades. I never even thought about going back and forth between them based on what I wanted to do with the edge.

Thanks again for the info!

*NOTE: For those looking for a link to the BGA User's Guide, here it is: USER'S GUIDE
Yea works great, on some knives I want a greater convex, mainly on thicker knives..then on thinner knives or atleast thin at the edge I use the "short" position to keep it closer to a v edge with minimal convex.
 
I seem to be getting a really fine finish, (as to be expected, when going to x4 or 12k strop belt). I prefer a toothier finish, and go back to 6 micron DMT paste (1 micron on order) on the Washboard afterwards to get some bite back. Anybody else do this? Or just stop at x65 belt and strop?

I did an experiment the other day that seemed to work out pretty well: I formed an edge using the stiff Norax x100 belt, pulling a full length burr on each side. Then I switched to the purple "6000" belt. In one pass the burr was mostly gone. In a second pass, it was totally gone. I did one more stroke per side for good measure.

The edge was still pretty darned toothy after, but not quite as toothy as I had hoped. It almost push cuts phonebook paper. Certainly cuts it easily with a little bit of a slice. Shaves pretty well. Feels sticky with the 3 finger test.

Maybe with a lighter touch, or lower belt speed on the purple belt, I could get just as good of burr removal, but retain more tooth? I'll have to try that next time.

Brian.
 
I did an experiment the other day that seemed to work out pretty well: I formed an edge using the stiff Norax x100 belt, pulling a full length burr on each side. Then I switched to the purple "6000" belt. In one pass the burr was mostly gone. In a second pass, it was totally gone. I did one more stroke per side for good measure.

The edge was still pretty darned toothy after, but not quite as toothy as I had hoped. It almost push cuts phonebook paper. Certainly cuts it easily with a little bit of a slice. Shaves pretty well. Feels sticky with the 3 finger test.

Maybe with a lighter touch, or lower belt speed on the purple belt, I could get just as good of burr removal, but retain more tooth? I'll have to try that next time.

Brian.
Maybe just try to deburr on a linen belt and compound
 
^ Sounds like a reasonable idea. But I don't have a linen belt. Maybe I'll try it on a purple belt turned inside out. They seem to stick to the rollers just fine, even inside out.

Brian.
 
I did an experiment the other day that seemed to work out pretty well: I formed an edge using the stiff Norax x100 belt, pulling a full length burr on each side. Then I switched to the purple "6000" belt. In one pass the burr was mostly gone. In a second pass, it was totally gone. I did one more stroke per side for good measure.

The edge was still pretty darned toothy after, but not quite as toothy as I had hoped. It almost push cuts phonebook paper. Certainly cuts it easily with a little bit of a slice. Shaves pretty well. Feels sticky with the 3 finger test.

Maybe with a lighter touch, or lower belt speed on the purple belt, I could get just as good of burr removal, but retain more tooth? I'll have to try that next time.

Brian.

This sounds like a good idea to try. I think even the x65 belts take too much tooth off. Did you get the x100 belts directly from Darex/Worksharp
 
This sounds like a good idea to try. I think even the x65 belts take too much tooth off. Did you get the x100 belts directly from Darex/Worksharp

Yes. They have regular and stiff Norax lines. I got x200, x100, x22, and x5 in stiff. I also got a couple of 80 grit and a 60 grit ceramic; neither are Norax; just regular belts.

Brian.
 
I just sharpened my 162 using the p120 and followed up with 2 very light passes per side on the 12k grit belt...gave me a very sharp aggressive edge with plenty of teeth to it still
 
I just sharpened my 162 using the p120 and followed up with 2 very light passes per side on the 12k grit belt...gave me a very sharp aggressive edge with plenty of teeth to it still

I have to keep remembering "very light passes." I stopped at the X22, 800 grit, 22 micron for my kitchen knives because i was losing sharpness when I go finer belt.

By very light, do you mean you barely touch the blade to the belt? Do you change the angle of the blade or the belt when you switch to the 12k grit as in less angle between the belt and the belt?
 
I have to keep remembering "very light passes." I stopped at the X22, 800 grit, 22 micron for my kitchen knives because i was losing sharpness when I go finer belt.

By very light, do you mean you barely touch the blade to the belt? Do you change the angle of the blade or the belt when you switch to the 12k grit as in less angle between the belt and the belt?

That's odd you weren't getting sharper with the progression...if I want a polished edge I go from x65, x22,x4, 12k, a worn out 12k with black compound, then green compound on either a linen belt or strop and finish with stropping on a paint stick with flitz. When I'm done i have an edge capable of passing the hht usually..but will feather a hair atleast.

As far as pressure it depends what I'm going for..for the above scenario I use the same pressure on every grit up until the 12k, then I lower my angle a degree or 2 and use just the wait of the blade.

Now for the post you quoted for a tooth edge I just barely let the blade contact the belt...just enough to remove any burr.
 
I love the Blade Grinder attachment, to my way of thinking they should offer a setup with just that and the motor for those that wouldn't be using the standard attachment.

But a couple things to consider when grinding/sharpening with this is eye protection, and a particle mask, that dust you see settling on the machine, some of that will be in your immediate area too, not good to be breathing that in !

Also I do put some lube on that spring tension bar as well, I've been thinking more about that and I may try to make a small 'roof' that would help keep the dust from settling down on that, as even with lube on there, you end up with lube filled with metal dust, not a good thing. Maybe just a small shingle stuck to the wall above the tensioner, worth a shot.

Love that box holder for the belts, I searched Amazon but didn't locate it, if someone has a link, that'd be great!

For my folders I do usually use my sharpening stones, but for larger knives, kitchen knives or blades that need the bevel set, I'll use this, a joy to use for sure!

G2
 
I love the Blade Grinder attachment, to my way of thinking they should offer a setup with just that and the motor for those that wouldn't be using the standard attachment.

But a couple things to consider when grinding/sharpening with this is eye protection, and a particle mask, that dust you see settling on the machine, some of that will be in your immediate area too, not good to be breathing that in !

Also I do put some lube on that spring tension bar as well, I've been thinking more about that and I may try to make a small 'roof' that would help keep the dust from settling down on that, as even with lube on there, you end up with lube filled with metal dust, not a good thing. Maybe just a small shingle stuck to the wall above the tensioner, worth a shot.

Love that box holder for the belts, I searched Amazon but didn't locate it, if someone has a link, that'd be great!

For my folders I do usually use my sharpening stones, but for larger knives, kitchen knives or blades that need the bevel set, I'll use this, a joy to use for sure!

G2
Yea especially with cheaper steels..I sharpened my buddy's gas station folder and was blowing black crap out of my nose for 2 days, plus made my nose sore.
I keep a simple painters mask in my kit note.

They should definitely offer it as a kit option, I never use the stock attachment, and I also oil that spring. I've been looking at it and I'm thinking about making some sort of easily placed platten to Mount in between the 2 pulleys to aide in heavy grinding or producing a v edge. I just haven't had time to really think about it...

I've attempted using the 90° area but it's too cramped to be effective and reaching the hilt on the machine side.
 
I love the Blade Grinder attachment, to my way of thinking they should offer a setup with just that and the motor for those that wouldn't be using the standard attachment.

But a couple things to consider when grinding/sharpening with this is eye protection, and a particle mask, that dust you see settling on the machine, some of that will be in your immediate area too, not good to be breathing that in !

Also I do put some lube on that spring tension bar as well, I've been thinking more about that and I may try to make a small 'roof' that would help keep the dust from settling down on that, as even with lube on there, you end up with lube filled with metal dust, not a good thing. Maybe just a small shingle stuck to the wall above the tensioner, worth a shot.

Love that box holder for the belts, I searched Amazon but didn't locate it, if someone has a link, that'd be great!

For my folders I do usually use my sharpening stones, but for larger knives, kitchen knives or blades that need the bevel set, I'll use this, a joy to use for sure!

G2

I guess I know the answer to this but I'm going to ask a stupid question anyway. So I use it in my two car garage. I don't wear a mask. And I have my dogs with me. You think the dust is bad for them too? They just usually sit under my chair.

As for eye protection, sorry, but what could go wrong? It's not like I haven't been around machinery before; I guess I've been working in an office for too long to remember.
 
I guess I know the answer to this but I'm going to ask a stupid question anyway. So I use it in my two car garage. I don't wear a mask. And I have my dogs with me. You think the dust is bad for them too? They just usually sit under my chair.

As for eye protection, sorry, but what could go wrong? It's not like I haven't been around machinery before; I guess I've been working in an office for too long to remember.
If they're right below where you are grinding then possibly yes.. It may not seem like you're producing much dust but metal particles are being blown all around and isn't good to breathe in. As far as eye protection, the same reason you don't want metal particles getting on your eyes. Also Shit happens, I've had a belt break and smack me in the face before.

When you grinding cheap steel or allot of knives it sucks to breathe it in and have a tissue full of black dust when you blow your nose...hurts to some times.
 
What he said :)

It's more important when the belts are brand new, it's not just the steel but the abrasive wearing down and the material that is used to adhere it to the belt.

Watch when you have a new belt how there's a puff or small poof of dust flying off.

G2
 
I do the painters mask and use the BGA in front of THIS portable benchtop dust collector, and it works great.

Also, another tip for those that have brought up using oil on that belt tensioner assembly. Do NOT use a normal oil, as that will cake with the metal dust that is already falling on that area.

Instead, use a dry lubricant like Super Slick Stuff that doesn't attract dust or dirt, and won't gum up. Works like magic!
 
Just wanted to add to this thread since I have been using my BGA for a couple weeks now. I absolutely LOVE this machine with the attachment. I had been a die hard Edge Pro user for the last 4yrs, and I invested quite a bit into my Edge Pro set-up. I never tried the Shapton stones, but I do have the entire Chosera set (the 6mm extra thick ones), along with a couple Atoma diamond plates. I always used the drill stop collar, along with an angle guide to keep my angles in check. I did get very good results with the Edge Pro, and I always thought the only product out there that could possibly be better for me was the Wicked Edge. Well, I was wrong.

The Work Sharp with the BGA is officially my new favorite sharpening set-up. I've been keeping the pulley in the upper position along with the belt tension high, which gives me nearly perfect V-edges. Just ever so slight of a convex, just enough to have to mention it. The end results that I am getting are absolutely just as good, or possibly even better than what I was getting off the Edge Pro. Doing a bit of stropping after the 12K belt gets me hair whittling edges 90% of the time. The biggest difference between the two systems is time. And it's a BIG one. I can practically sharpen an entire set of kitchen knives start to finish in the time it would take me to do one chef knife on the Edge Pro. Another thing I much prefer with the BGA is how much cleaner the whole process is. The Edge Pro with the Chosera stones creates quite the mess, and I always had to tape up the blades on customer knives to make sure they wouldn't get scratched. With the BGA on the Work Sharp I no longer have that problem. No more worries about scratching up someone else's knife, no taping needed.

I've probably sharpened at least 50+ knives on this system now in just over two weeks, and I'm now very comfortable using it. I'm still on the original belts, although I did order a replacement set to have on hand. I've been getting these amazing results without any additional items. No aftermarket belts etc. The only thing different I have done was load up my original worn 12K belt with some Stropman green compound per advice I got in this thread. But honestly it mainly just helps bring the polish level up a bit. Eventually I plan on grabbing the linen belts to load with compound for edge polishing, and may pick up a set of the stiff belts to try. But for now, the current stock belts are doing an amazing job.

In the past I always sort of looked down on powered systems. Not sure why. May have been because I felt high quality water stones were superior, or maybe I was just scared of ruining knives on a system that can grind away metal so fast. Whatever the case, I can no longer say I am not a fan lol. I am in LOVE with this new system. My only gripe now is that I may never use my Edge Pro again.
 
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