very light, fast blade

[hawk3/21]

Spaceghost, I've been going free hand without the gaurd. It only took a moment to realize it was too wide, although my cold steel machete is thin but would not draw properly either. Ill just have to use the sharpie to get my angles. Honestly iv had better luck with my 1x30 on larger blades. My machete cuts paper easily....almost newspaper. But the 600&1000gr micron belts blew apart, even though they're from the same distributor. So im saving for 1×42 to get x-weight belts. Even though the worksharp has thick cloth backed belts, some have been blowing chunks and all wore out way too fast. I believe this is why I had no luck with the siru. Just too worn out, only on small knives with little usage to be cost effective. Even when new it struggled with vg10 and only worked effectively up to aus8. This 5160 should have been butter for it.

So ill try my 1×30, going 400 grit to leather. Still, I wonder if these come with a micro bevel or full convex. The sharpener included (missing on my siru, so not an option anyway) only work with micro bevel. So was the original design that you just started a micro bevel in the field until it didnt work anymore, then return to the kami for a new convex, or did it come with a micro bevel.

No big deal either way, as im set up for convex, just wondering.

 

[hawk3/21]

absolutely beautiful knife hawks-- supreme first example, love the small flourish symbols-- and I believe the current user of the 6 point star is young kumar-- sher's middle brother?

Thanks Gehazi, I really love it. So beautiful. I am torn whether to trade it for a more useful one or to hang on to it for its beauty and craftsmanship. I know ill regret it everyday if I get rid of it, but I also know that once I have the new one in my hand ill love that one too. Even more of a conundrum now that I know who made it and with U.B. on the blade.

P.S. am I correct that the u.b. is uncle bill. Marked as a second.

 

[cul4u01]

All HI knives are full convex, that is my understanding.

U.B. stands for Uncle Bill, in memorium.

There are no seconds, just blems, and blems are not narked on the blade. Auntie merely lists them as blems on the forum DOTDs.

Blems are usually minor cracks, or shrinkage in the handle which can be fixed with a little epoxy, and sanding/filing. Minor rust on the blade, which can be removed with a little effort. Karda and Chakma missing. Small imperfection with the scabbard, like a bent tip from shipping, loose or tight scabbard. Basically, a lot of cosmetic issues, nothing to due with the actual blades themselves. Blems are a super deal!

A lot of HI blems would be sold at retail stores, as "firsts", but auntie's integrity, and sense of honesty in business, would never allow her to sell a blade as a first, with even a minor cosmetic imperfection. There are many others, myself included that have bought a blade with a cosmetic issue, and are left to wonder, "where is the flaw?, auntie must have better eyes than we do"...lol.

 

[hawk3/21]

Thanks Yandu, Im amazed my phone pictures look so good. The siru is very special, thank you for suggesting it. I doubt that many have more beauty or are more satisfying to hold in your hand. I admire it everyday

 

[Steve Tall]

Truthfully, I am not sure, but I do not believe the traditional handles are a stick tang, or rat tail, I believe they are are much more substantial, but they just are not "sandwiched" between two scales like the chiruwa full tang handle...

Here's a post by jdk1 with an X-ray showing how substantial the typical HI "stick" tangs are (top and bottom in photo). I'm not worried about that continuous bar of alloy steel in the handle ever breaking.

I thought you guys might be interested in these X-Ray photos. Sorry for the poor quality. The X-Rays were taken by my cat's vet...

...

 

[Spaceghost]

The worksharp is certainly doing a convex edge. Especially if you use the add on free hand attachment. The attachment also uses larger heavier duty belts that do not break easily. If you have tons of things flying off the belt I'd check the tracking adjustment.

 

[hawk3/21]

It helps, if your goal was to make me want your kukuri. I love the look with the two fillers and drop shape handle. That is an incredible looking blade. I get what youre saying about the mods and will have no problem trying with the small village style that just arrived. I would not deface the siru with my hand, id rather trade it first and know its intact. I wasn't so much concerned with the balance when sanding, more the difference between the full tang and stick. I seem to remember the drop shape handle on WWI kukris. Perhaps it is done to counter the change in weight distribution.

Of course, so many possibilities and it seems you just have to buy different styles and see what fits well. Let me ask, is that a heavy model or does it just look it? So hard to see weight and thickness in pics.

No matter, either way I would be overjoyed to have it on my table

Truthfully, I am not sure, but I do not believe the traditional handles are a stick tang, or rat tail, I believe they are are much more substantial, but they just are not "sandwiched" between two scales like the chiruwa full tang handle (ses below):



Any filing or custom shaping you do to the handles, I doubt will effect the balance point very much, if not at all. Many of the members here customize their khukuris via filing, changing scales, sanding, adding paracord for girth increase, etc... I have never heard of any instance, where a member has stated that any modifications they've done affected the balance of the knife in general. Some people swing the khukuri differently with various grips, and modifying a handle to fit such styles is almost always needed.

You can always order a custom, and ask for a handle like below, or with a full tang "western" type handle. I really like the handle below with it's very slight drop. It actually helps the user to use the correct type of swing, grip, and technique correctly.





I hope that helps...

 

[cul4u01]

Here's a post by jdk1 with an X-ray showing how substantial the typical HI "stick" tangs are (top and bottom in photo). I'm not worried about that continuous bar of alloy steel in the handle ever breaking.

Steve with the answers everytime.

That is definately much more substantial than any rat tail or stick tang, I've ever seen. Glad I was right on this one, yeah for me (pat on the back...lol).

 

[hawk3/21]

Man, I want you to move to my neighborhood, just so I can check out your collect. One after the next, each is special. I would be worried about the blade slipping, so ive stayed away from the "no bell" designs. But Wow, that handle is special.

That looks like Kami brothers Kumar and Sher. They are excellent kamis, and were with HI from early on, left to pursue other interests, and have recently come back to HI. Due to the UB mark, this looks like the work they've done recently.

A 20" Sirupate would be heavy and unwieldy, due to your described physical limitations.

Light fast blade for slashing vines and such? or for self defensive purposes?

A 15" blade would have more balance, and feel more neutral in hand. A 15" Sirupate is a good choice, but I would also consider the Kumar Kobra, Gelbu Special, Bashpati (doesn't have the bell at the end of the handle, nothing to "dig" into your hand)

I personally have a 18" Bashpati by Rajkumar in my nightstand, near my bed, and it is a very fast blade, and very easy to control. I do not have the largest hands, nor the strongest hands, wrist, or arm, but I have full control of my Bashpati, and I feel sorry for anyone on the other side of my blade while I am in control of it.

Actual pic of my Bashpati:

 

[cul4u01]

Hawk - The khukuri pic is a 17" Dui Chirra model. The chiruwa handle pic (the one with my hand in the pic) is from a 18" Bonecutter model (very serious chopper).

The specs on the Dui Chirra is:

Kami - Thamar
Overall length --17''
Weight --23 oz
Spine thickness --5/16''
White metal fittings
Satisal wood handle

It is actually quite light, with enough forward weight distribution to be a good chopper. The double fullers do help to make the blade lighter than it should be, and very pretty, in my opinion.

Thank you for your kind comments, but my collection is woefully modest compared to some of the other members, like Gehazi, Ndoghouse, Dirtbiker, Phillll, David99, and many others, they have some really HI exotics, and are beautiful beyond belief.

 

[hawk3/21]

The worksharp is certainly doing a convex edge. Especially if you use the free hand attachment. The attachment also uses larger heavier duty belts that do not break easily. If you have tons of things flying off the belt I'd check the tracking adjustment.

Worksharp replaced one, said they had problems with a batch, but by they time the replacement arrived, two more grits were doing it to. I havent had trouble with the larger blades, just removing the guide totally and going freehand. I just cant see investing more, a new attachment and new belts too. Plus replacing most of the original belts. Ib think ill sell it and just go 1×42, I know the belts will last. Honestly, I didnt sharpen (own) that many knives.

Even on the 1x30 with cheap belts (iron oxide??) I've only replaced the ones used to shape wood and stock removal. None of the finer sharpening belts yet.

I do enjoy using it on small blades, up to 5" approx, I cant repeat angles consistently without the guide. So end up spending all day on one blade freehand.

 

[hawk3/21]

Thanks Steve, great post. Ive always read these tangs dont have issues. I dont know if id ever trust the really old glued in tangs,, but I like how broad these start. My question was really more directed to the way this style uses the blade weight for power and efficiency, and how much of that would be lost with a full tang design. Sorry I cant remember the name, I just read it 4 times....chiruwal??

I now, as of one hour ago, have a second "stick tang" design. I dont doubt its strength. The only reason I ask about the full tang is I've read many posts saying they have roomie handles. Although I still like some butt/end piece to keep my hand from slipping.

 

[ndoghouse]

So ill try my 1×30, going 400 grit to leather. ...

Thats what ive used, a worn out 400 works more like a 600-800. I havent even found anything over 400 grit for a 1x30? If you have one of the big box store 1x30's they are crap for tracking. Mine ran out of adjustment so i had to rig it up to get more. Also the bearings are crap so I bought new ones for about $8 which are probably crap too but they are working for now. I dont us it on my Khuks but I do use it on straight blades. I removed the work table and the platten (a must) and lay it down on its back and is more comfortable to work with. A new 220 is way to aggressive so I seem to stick with 400. Soon I plan to build a 2x72 (a real grinder) which will be fun. More belts and contact wheels etc. are available as well as grits and quality belts.

Disclaimer: BW HI doesnt recommend using power tools on Khuks especially if you ever have an interest in redeeming warranty. Cant say I blame them because some horrible things can be done to a good blade if you dont know what your doing. Just thought id add that in case some new fellas were tuning in

 

[hawk3/21]

Thanks for clearing that up, bless is what i was told, even though mine was just missing the two companion pieces.

On your other post, with your 18" bone cutter. Im glad to hear it, now I dont have to drool over it so much. Knowing I couldnt handle it anyway. Great piece of work, it really stands out from the crowd as top craftsmanship.

This is why I am torn with the siru. The new little villager/black blade is 100% more functional for my abilities, but like all the ones you havr posted, the siru rises above its usefulness.

All HI knives are full convex, that is my understanding.

U.B. stands for Uncle Bill, in memorium.

There are no seconds, just blems, and blems are not narked on the blade. Auntie merely lists them as blems on the forum DOTDs.

Blems are usually minor cracks, or shrinkage in the handle which can be fixed with a little epoxy, and sanding/filing. Minor rust on the blade, which can be removed with a little effort. Karda and Chakma missing. Small imperfection with the scabbard, like a bent tip from shipping, loose or tight scabbard. Basically, a lot of cosmetic issues, nothing to due with the actual blades themselves. Blems are a super deal!

A lot of HI blems would be sold at retail stores, as "firsts", but auntie's integrity, and sense of honesty in business, would never allow her to sell a blade as a first, with even a minor cosmetic imperfection. There are many others, myself included that have bought a blade with a cosmetic issue, and are left to wonder, "where is the flaw?, auntie must have better eyes than we do"...lol.

 

[cul4u01]

The villager knives are a super deal! They are fantastic users.

 

[Steve Tall]

Thats what ive used, a worn out 400 works more like a 600-800. I havent even found anything over 400 grit for a 1x30? ...

I've bought belts from a place called Supergrit (dot com), and they have black S.C. 1x30 belts up to 800 grit.

 

[Gehazi]

hawks, that klvuk should reach you monday if it did not today was priority 2 day !

 

[hawk3/21]

So, so I understand you correctly, we have to make them move next to us???

I just weighed my two and the villager style, (I have to remeber who sold me it, so I can ask the details. Only so I can base my next orders on it.) The light villager is 19.2 oz/544gr and the 20"sirupati is 29.133oz/826gr. So your beauty isn't as heavy as I thought....now I have to start drooling again. I have read many posts of people waiting a long time to get one. The two fullers definitely make it look sweet.

Hawk - The khukuri pic is a 17" Dui Chirra model. The chiruwa handle pic (the one with my hand in the pic) is from a 18" Bonecutter model (very serious chopper).

The specs on the Dui Chirra is:

Kami - Thamar
Overall length --17''
Weight --23 oz
Spine thickness --5/16''
White metal fittings
Satisal wood handle

It is actually quite light, with enough forward weight distribution to be a good chopper. The double fullers do help to make the blade lighter than it should be, and very pretty, in my opinion.

Thank you for your kind comments, but my collection is woefully modest compared to some of the other members, like Gehazi, Ndoghouse, Dirtbiker, Phillll, David99, and many others, they have some really HI exotics, and are beautiful beyond belief.

 

[hawk3/21]

hawks, that klvuk should reach you monday if it did not today was priority 2 day !

Bingo, we have a winner. It has arrived, i thought it may be from you. Outstanding♥♥♥☆☆☆☆☆

It really fits great. I just weighed it, 544gr/19.2oz. I thought right around 500gr would work and its perfect. Handle digs in same as the sirupati, but ill have no qualms sanding it to fit me. Im surprised the weight is so low for this blade design, I thought id have to get a sirupati-ish shape to get so light.

Would you be so kind and tell me what kvluk stands for. Sorry if you already have, I've been processing so many acronyms and talking with so many people its a blurr.

So maybe next month, ill get a fancy/shiny one with the same dimensions.

Here's a size comparison....hope the phone pics work, no sun here todayhttp:// [URL=http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jcashell67/media/20140816_162323_zps8u1kf0fh.jpg.html][/URL]http:// [URL=http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jcashell67/media/20140816_162339_zpsbumuioyo.jpg.html][/URL]http:// [URL=http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jcashell67/media/20140816_162545_zpse6gh4hld.jpg.html][/URL]

 

[hawk3/21]

Now time for you guys to drool....lol. im happy, Gehazi, I put my faith in you, and i could not be happier with it. Plus, I now have two sizes and shapes to base my next purchase on......