- Joined
- Mar 3, 2011
- Messages
- 1,010
So I really enjoy WIPs but have been scared to post of my work since I've only been doing this like a year and half. I'm addicted tho and the best way to learn is to post a WIP and let the masters tear into my process or work so I can learn what not to do or better ways of doing it. I really enjoy trying something totally new or something I suck at to practice and improve my skills. There are a few things I can do well but whats the point in repeating those over and over when there are SOOO many things I need to try or work on 
. With that being said this is a kitchen knife I wanted to try for all around use. Awhile back I read where someone just kind of winged there design as they went. Sounded interesting and fun so I kind of did the same. Had a general Idea of what I wanted shape and size wise but no drawing or design. I also want to work on a Japanese style handle (octagon in this case). I'm also practicing blending the whole knife to where ther are no line not even a ricasso.
Well here is the pics. Let me know if you have any advice or any suggestions or see anything I messed up on.
My super precision freehand drafting right on the metal! Its 1/8" 1084 from Aldo. I wanted it to be thick enough for all around kitchen duty.
Another habit I'm trying to get myself into. Making sure I'm nice and square
Profile ground down to where I was happy with the shape
Layout dye so its super easy to see my scribed center line
I've done a handful of kitchen knives that have been "blended in" and this is something to help me. I grind past where the blade will stop. It might make more sense later on.
I do 80% of the grinding with a 36 grit the go to a nice 80 grit and start cleaning up and finish getting close to the center line. You can see toward the tip how the 80 grit is cleaning things up as I work it toward the tip. I use to grind with a 60 to the line then try and clean up. Well stupid me took awhile to realize I hardly had any material to grind off without getting to thin to get the deep scratches the rough grits can leave.
Pretty much done on this side with the 80 grit.
Repeated on the other side and mic'd the edge. Looks good so far.
Now for some blending and smoothing things out.
Before-
and things starting to look better!
Now its time to start the tang area. I leave for last cause its a lot easier to handle for me when I have a nice big piece of steel to hold. I want the handle to be a 1" octagon so I measure 1" from the spine after I squared it up. Layout fluid makes it so easy to see. I also learn to love carbide scribes! This round bottle thingy had just the curve I was looking for.
Looks good
OK cut alot off on the bandsaw and will grind the rest off later with the small wheels on my KMG.
Oh for wood I'm thinking this stabalized Koa I have with a copper spacer and probably ebony or african blackwood spacers. Need to find some nice ebony or blackwood first to order.
I know I posted tons of pics but remember I want to show as much as I can so all the makers here can help me improve.
William Bishop
. With that being said this is a kitchen knife I wanted to try for all around use. Awhile back I read where someone just kind of winged there design as they went. Sounded interesting and fun so I kind of did the same. Had a general Idea of what I wanted shape and size wise but no drawing or design. I also want to work on a Japanese style handle (octagon in this case). I'm also practicing blending the whole knife to where ther are no line not even a ricasso.Well here is the pics. Let me know if you have any advice or any suggestions or see anything I messed up on.
My super precision freehand drafting right on the metal! Its 1/8" 1084 from Aldo. I wanted it to be thick enough for all around kitchen duty.
Another habit I'm trying to get myself into. Making sure I'm nice and square
Profile ground down to where I was happy with the shape
Layout dye so its super easy to see my scribed center line
I've done a handful of kitchen knives that have been "blended in" and this is something to help me. I grind past where the blade will stop. It might make more sense later on.
I do 80% of the grinding with a 36 grit the go to a nice 80 grit and start cleaning up and finish getting close to the center line. You can see toward the tip how the 80 grit is cleaning things up as I work it toward the tip. I use to grind with a 60 to the line then try and clean up. Well stupid me took awhile to realize I hardly had any material to grind off without getting to thin to get the deep scratches the rough grits can leave.
Pretty much done on this side with the 80 grit.
Repeated on the other side and mic'd the edge. Looks good so far.
Now for some blending and smoothing things out.
Before-
and things starting to look better!
Now its time to start the tang area. I leave for last cause its a lot easier to handle for me when I have a nice big piece of steel to hold. I want the handle to be a 1" octagon so I measure 1" from the spine after I squared it up. Layout fluid makes it so easy to see. I also learn to love carbide scribes! This round bottle thingy had just the curve I was looking for.
Looks good
OK cut alot off on the bandsaw and will grind the rest off later with the small wheels on my KMG.
Oh for wood I'm thinking this stabalized Koa I have with a copper spacer and probably ebony or african blackwood spacers. Need to find some nice ebony or blackwood first to order.
I know I posted tons of pics but remember I want to show as much as I can so all the makers here can help me improve.
William Bishop
Last edited:
J/K 
