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Virtual BBQ WIP - noobie kitchen knife - Pic heavy

Hey man, I'll take that Koa off your hands. And here's am couple of tips on hidden tangs that I got from a master smith at the Little Rock show a few years ago. A good rule of thumb for tang length is 4/5 of the finished handle length. For example if the finished handle is gonna be 5" then the tang needs to be 4". This is even more important when using spacers like your doing on this knife. Also use a small drill bit to radius the shoulders then file the rest as normal. Gimme a call one day when you have time. And you're still welcome to come for a visit anytime.

Darrin
 
SO been thinkign about blade finish. What do yall think would be better.

1) a light vinegar etch
2) Nice satin finish
3) Mirror finish (which on a kitchen knife Im not a big fan of)

Trying to picture them in my mind
 
Well started to work on it and didn't get far cause as soon as I went for some sandpaper I realized Im out of 180 and 220 grit. So off to the store real quick and maybe grab some lunch. Got a little done to the handle.

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Played with the dogs some then played with the grandson some too then back to the knife!

Going thru the grits and using the sanding in different directions technique to see scratches from different grits. Stopped at 220. What do yall normally stop at pre HT?

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Get these gloves at work since Im a nurse. Cleaning the oil and dust off for decarb compound.

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And Ill let it dry over night then do the otherside tomorrow sometime.
 
OK got to heat teat the knife at a friends and he has a homemade oven. He explained a lot about the controller and how it is run. I plan on using some tax refund $ to buy or build a heat treat oven so I can quit bothering him lol. Seeing those threads on maikng one and his oven makes me want to try it just for the challenge and fun! If it ain't a challenge then can it really be fun?

So finished 2nd cycle of tempering - You can see the coating is still on there but it come off sooo easy. Most comes off in the quench. If you havnt tried this stuff might be worth giving a try. That little container seems like it will last forever.

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15 seconds of 220 grit which is where I left off prior to HT

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Probably a minute total at 220 for one side

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Moving on to 320 grit

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I've never tried the anti-scale compound but I'm thinking I may have to. Looks like you could go to maybe a 400 grit finish and then go gro there after H/T. If so that will save a lot of time, work, & sandpaper. When/if you come up bring it so you can show me how to apply it properly. As far as the final finish, I vote for some type of etch/patina. Kitchen knives are gonna wind up with a patina and I think they look better if evenly applied. I really like the materials and profile. Look forward to seeing it finished.
 
I've never tried the anti-scale compound but I'm thinking I may have to. Looks like you could go to maybe a 400 grit finish and then go gro there after H/T. If so that will save a lot of time, work, & sandpaper. When/if you come up bring it so you can show me how to apply it properly. As far as the final finish, I vote for some type of etch/patina. Kitchen knives are gonna wind up with a patina and I think they look better if evenly applied. I really like the materials and profile. Look forward to seeing it finished.
Ill bring some up when I get a chance to go visit so you can test some out. I'm kinda leaning toward the etch/patina too just for 2 reasons. 1) a polished sharp edges contrast alot better against it and 2) I can control the etch for a nice even etch vs someone upset when they get the natural food patina that will be splotchy and what not.
 
At 400 I use a wet paper and a little oil. I find the slurry it makes almost acts like a polishing compound and speeds things up a lot and gives good results.

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After that I go with windex for 600+ grits. My water here is horrible and wouldn't use it to wet sand anything.

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Im not neglecting the spine either.

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Gonna go catch a movie with my dad and then Ill come back to do a 800 sand before I etch. Need to think about how dark of a etch would look good anyway so Ill have a little time tothink about it. Any suggestions on how dark to go?
 
Decided to try somethings out since this knife was mainly to do something different and learn even tho im really liking how its turning out!

Etch time!

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after a couple etches to give me a idea what it looks like so far.

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Working a ever so slight bevel with some japanese waterstones I have. I dont think I did much but rub off some of the etch lol. Afraid Im gonna screw something up.

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Now time for granite and sandpaper

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Never worked with ebony to be honest but man I love this stuff. 120 grit to 1000 grit with a light buff. This stuff turns out beautiful. I might try a whole handle with it soon!

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Well major design changes!!!!!! Went to visit my buddy who is a manager at a sushi restaurant and asked one of the main chefs there to take a look at my knife. Guy seemed super knowledgeable about knives. Said he under stood what I was going for and the octagon handle was great lookign and feeling but didnt fit the knife... I was like what?!?! He showed me some of his octagon handle knives and pointed out how my tang was a little thicker then usual and very cleek and curved where as most of his he showed me had a 90 degree straight to a more narrow tang. So after taliking to him some maore came home and started to round it off and ended up with this. You know he was right this does look sleeker and better suits the blade. Lesson learned.

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for comparison

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and

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The curve vs 90 degree does make a big difference
 
Its actually slight more comfortable since I made it a slight oval in shape. I do want to do a octagon handle but I think I will go for full traditional in blade shape and a nice chisel grind when I go for it again.
 
Decided to try somethings out since this knife was mainly to do something different and learn even tho im really liking how its turning out!

Etch time!

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Great looking WIP! I loved the octagon handle but the changes you made look really nice as well. Can't wait to see this one finished.

I had a question about your PVC etch tank. I need something better than my current setup consisting of a mason jar full of muriatic acid!:D

When you build an etch tank from PVC like yours what type of cement do you use on the bottom portion. Do you have to worry about your ferric or muriatic or whatever acid burning through the glue and leaking on your shop floor? I've been wanting something like yours for a while now but just haven't taken the time to learn how to do it right.

Thanks!
 
Great looking WIP! I loved the octagon handle but the changes you made look really nice as well. Can't wait to see this one finished.

I had a question about your PVC etch tank. I need something better than my current setup consisting of a mason jar full of muriatic acid!:D

When you build an etch tank from PVC like yours what type of cement do you use on the bottom portion. Do you have to worry about your ferric or muriatic or whatever acid burning through the glue and leaking on your shop floor? I've been wanting something like yours for a while now but just haven't taken the time to learn how to do it right.

Thanks!
I used regular pvc cement. Ive had this setup for about 6 mnths and no problems yet. Its a 4" pvs pipe and at that size the cap and pipe thickness are pretty hefty so no real worries. I do go thru the little cheap metal rods I get from home depot every 2-3 mnths but they are like 2$ a pop and I dont really rinse them that well etc.

I have a a cheap plywood base with the 2x4 screwed into it. In the 2x4 I screwed the worm clamps in and if I need I can undo the clamps and take the tank out. Works well for me. The cap fits nice and tight too so no fumes getting everywhere. This size held one bottle of ferric and enough water to make it a 4:1 solution. I think I paid 20$ total at home depot for it. Dont remember if I had scrap wood or not.

PS i used diluted muratic also in it before with no problems.
 
Pvc cement isn't a "glue" in the traditional sense, it's actually a solvent that melts the plastic and fuses it together.

If you want a really top notch tank, look into acid resistant drain pipe and fittings that are used in laboratories.
 
Well started sanding the handle went from 120 grit to 2000 grit and then a real light buff. Sorry about my crappy cell pics it really just doesnt do the handle justice. My wife thought when I handed it to her it was wet and wouldnt take it for a sec then she goes oh its 3d too lol.

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Of course tape to protect blade

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and skip a few grits

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and finished - no oils, no wax nothign but sanding and a light buff with a clean wheel.

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Honestly this is the best handle Ive ever done fit and finish wise. Its one of those you have to see in person to appreciate. Im glad I took the time to finish it right.

Will take a quick break to let my hands rest then will get out the stones and what not and sharpen it up!
 
Good looking knife. I =was thinking that octagon handle was way too big. I am digging the handle look the way it is.

Who doesn't love some 3D chatoyance? :thumbup:
 
Good looking knife. I =was thinking that octagon handle was way too big. I am digging the handle look the way it is.

Who doesn't love some 3D chatoyance? :thumbup:
Yeah the octagon handle still had alot of extra wood on it to grind down which worked out since I went semi oval with it. I think the blade shape I went with especially the curve near the handle is more suited to this style.
 
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