Warm, socks, gloves, boots, etc.

I'll second the black bunny boots as the greatest thing since sliced bread down to about -5 to-10F. Neoperene booties and wool socks seem to give me an additional 5 degrees or so. And sweaty feet don't change the insulating value of the boots. I'll also second the overalls. I wear Carhartt bibs over cold weather gear and it makes a big difference. No good when it is too wet though. I have never had spendy gloves, but my favorite to date are the green surplus wool liners, wear two pair, one over the other. They are still small enough on your hands that you can work in them. If you wear out an outer one, put it on the other hand, or on the inside, and carry on. :)
 
Cleaning closets I found 3 full-length sheepskin coats all about 30 yrs old. I know that I had worn one of them for at least a few months in Ohio, blizzard of '78 (don't remember being cold) and likely again judging by its condition.
The coat is not serviceable as is. Both shoulders have ripped out in the back and not at the seams. I am wondering if it is worth getting a 30 year old sheepskin coat mended, patched even; its not a 'dress' coat. It has never been treated.
 
Cleaning closets I found 3 full-length sheepskin coats all about 30 yrs old. I know that I had worn one of them for at least a few months in Ohio, blizzard of '78 (don't remember being cold) and likely again judging by its condition.
The coat is not serviceable as is. Both shoulders have ripped out in the back and not at the seams. I am wondering if it is worth getting a 30 year old sheepskin coat mended, patched even; its not a 'dress' coat. It has never been treated.

My guess is that it has dry rotted and may not be worth it, but being a cheap sucker(me)I'd try to sew wool over it to be used ice fishing.:D
 
Wool is great stuff. I like and use lots of wool. I am especialy fond of surplus wool pants from German and Swedish militaries (some of which they sold off brand-new).

Polarguard sets the standard, but is available in modestly-priced garments (< $30.00)(Try Campmor.).

I just looked at the label in my fleece jacket, Columbia, and 100% polyester. Would this be the same as/or comparable to Polarguard?

Where do you get the surplus wool pants?

What do you suggest as a first layer, and /or second as the case may be?
 
I just looked at the label in my fleece jacket, Columbia, and 100% polyester. Would this be the same as/or comparable to Polarguard?
It should be pretty good. The patent on the process to make fleece resist pilling ran out, so lots of sources these days. This process also keeps the fibers oriented more-or-less at right angles to your body to speed moisture transport.

Where do you get the surplus wool pants?
Sorry. Bought them years ago. A flood of them hit the market when wool was dumped by militaries in favor of polyester and nylon (which they must reconsider in the age of IED's). Try a Google search for "wool" + "surplus" + "pants" or "trousers."

What do you suggest as a first layer, and /or second as the case may be?
I have been using Capalene (AKA "Capilene"), a polyester fabric engineered for moisture transport.
 
Surplus wool pants still can be found at cheaperthandirt.com.
I still haven't figured out what type of activities you are going to be doing. Walking to and fro? Start and stop activities?
Different types of behavior need different types of gear. Wool is great, heavy but great. Synthetics need more attention to maintain life of the garment but are fantastic for layering..
What type of price point are you looking at?
I worked in outdoor retail stores for 5+ years, so I am pretty familiar with most types of warm stuff. Not to mention when I went to Bretton Woods,NH I too had a problem with exposure some 8 years ago. It only takes one time to realize your gear sucks and you don't have to be cold.
 
I'll chime in from my mid to high altitude mountain guiding experience.

Everybody has added a great amount of information so I'll try not to repeat too much.

Layers: There are 2 ways to layer depending on what you are doing. If you are standing still a lot then you already know the standard layering system. Long underwear, mid-layer, shell. The problem with this system is that if you get hot you usually have to stop, take off the shell, remove the mid-layer to stash in your pack, and then put your shell back on. Reverse the order when you start to get chilly. It's time consuming and a pain on the move.

If you are moving hard and fast then you can layer in this order: long underwear, shell and then insulation. The key here is the shell. I don't spend much time in wet environments anymore since leaving the military so I don't wear hardshells (i.e. Gore-tex, Triple Ceramic, eVent, etc.) if it's not raining. I wear softshells instead, which are highly water-resistent, are incredibly tough, block most of the wind, and breathe much better than most hardshells, depending on which materials you are looking at. This serves as a second skin, but it works much better than your own. Over that I layer my synthetic-filled or down jacket, again depending on the environment I'm in.

Of course, "cotton kills!" so avoid it for anywhere except the desert (where you can still get hypothermic at night, so beware of cotton anywhere!).

I really like thin merino wool for long underwear. Get the thinnest you can find from high quality companies like Smartwool, Icebreakers and Ibex. Go with the superior Aussie or Kiwi merino wools. Merino doesn't itch or stink, and in thin layers dries relatively fast.

Down is great in dry environments. Warmest and lightest insulation out there. Lasts considerably longer than synthetic fills, too. I buy 750+ fill power and up. Lighter and warmer, but it doesn't last as long and it's considerably more expensive.

Synthetics for everything else.

Windstopper is great for some applications. I love it in vests, gloves and hats (as long as the Windstopper doesn't cover the ears, because it also blocks the sound, which is dangerous in mountain environments). I have a couple of jackets in Windstopper but they breathe too poorly for anything beside snowboarding for me. YMMV.

Softshell for gloves, gaitors, hats, pants, shirts, vests and jackets. I'm a fan. Schoeller Dryskin Extreme is my favorite for winter and Schoeller Dynamic for summer and for shirts anytime of year. Polartec makes some great versions also (although Power Shield is too hot for me) and now there are a billion proprietary softshells made by a billion companies but I can't recommend them as I haven't used them. The North Face's Apex Bionic seems to review well as does Arc'Teryx's Tweave.

I make my own modular balaclava that works exceptionally well for me. I use a neck gaitor, a Winstopper (Outdoor Research makes a great one) or neoprene face mask, a head band and 2 lightweight beanies. Relatively heavy but versatile. I mix and match as the weather dictates. If that's too much work and money, Polartec Powerstretch makes for the best balaclavas I've ever used. The Cateye Balaclava from MontBell is hands down the best, IMHO, and they make a version without a top on it (for venting) so that you can add your own beanie(s). Awesome for fast-paced activities.

The key is to stay cool and try not to sweat too much. Cooler muscles work more effectively. Sweat leads to hypothermia, chafing and general sticky uncomfortable ickiness. Zipper openings on your long underwear tops. Pit-zips or large mesh-backed pockets on your shells and mid-layers. Breathable materials.

Smartwools and Darn Tough Socks are the best socks I've ever used. Period.

Don't buy cheap gloves. In extreme cold cheap gloves means fewer/no fingers. My favorite gloves are from Black Diamond. I prefer to layer gloves like I do my body. Thin glove, warm glove, shell. You can get good system gloves from Black Diamond, Outdoor Research, and MontBell. If you like thinner gloves go with softshell or Windstopper.

My favorite boots are from LaSportiva but these are hiking, climbing boots. Sorels are good if you're not moving too far.

Chemical handwarmers are great. Get small ones and you can shove them in your boots and gloves, pockets, under your hat, etc. There have been a lot of ice climbs I wouldn't have finished without handwarmers in the back of my gloves.

Perhaps this information is too specialized for your needs, but just my .02.

Kage
 
I still haven't figured out what type of activities you are going to be doing. Walking to and fro? Start and stop activities?

After that misery I have no ambitions plans until I feel I’ve got a grip on what to do differently. ( I have gotten some insight thanks to these posts and happily I do have room for improvement.)

For now I want to get through the winter doing the kinds of things I NEED to do: shovel an hour or two, I enjoy this; walk in the hills by my house, exercise, maybe up to 1 hour and get to and fro in my car.

Additionally, on my job, musician, I need to use my hands/fingers for fine motor movements and a cold steering wheel is not my friend. Sometimes I use those hand warmers with the small disk you wiggle to active the heat, but usually not necessary. Even with this job it's tough to know what to wear. Play and sweat, then sit and get chilly, then overheat under the lights, rough:D

Then there is just the basic New England weather and the buildings that are 55 deg in one room, 85 deg in another when it is 7 deg outside. Now that my awareness is trained on the problem I realize that it wouldn't hurt to be prepared for an unplanned possibly extended wait in the cold.

It only takes one time to realize your gear sucks and you don't have to be cold.

Put it this way, it's got me shopping for clothes, not something I would normally choose.
 
In extreme cold use mitts with a liner glove of your choice. I stand by my 20$ made in China Garbos (garbage man mitts). They are a black leather outer with an uknown inner. That may sound iffy but they'll keep your hands just as warm as a state of the art 150$ mitt. Keep in mind that this is in an extreme dry cold with high winds and bone dry air where the advantages of high tech materials such as gore tex are largley negated. Good liner gloves are essential if a task requiring any sort of dexterity needs doing. They must be thin,warm,and ideally have a wicking effect. These gloves are only really going to be used for protecting against conduction. Even the thinnest materials can make a big difference in this area. When outside in bitter cold you should NEVER have barehands especially when handling or touching metal. I learned this the hard way when I tried doing up my magnesium snow shoes (yes you can start fires with them) without gloves in -40 a task lasting no more than 30 seconds but ended up in near frostbite (metal feels like fire in these conditions).
 
Okay, a couple more suggestions. Gore-tex, great stuff but unless you're mountaineering its a bit of overkill. There are numerous types of waterproof/breathables available for much less than gore-tex. I suggest using www.dogpile.com it uses most of the search engines. There is an EMS sports in Boston, and an REI in Reading. Both companies have typically very knowledgeable staff. Most employees are enthusiasts and gear heads too. If it is intimidating, look for the oldest employee, they typically have the most patience and genuinely want to help people suffer less.

Layers, layers, layers.

I am in complete agreement with kage on all points, however if your budget does not allow such "ninja" expenditures as a musician, (by Ninja, I mean the unlimited budget and need the best stuff available) you can opt for Big Name companies with active sport lines. IE: cross country skiing, snowshoeing, etc.

I hope this all helps..
 
Of course, "cotton kills!" so avoid it for anywhere except the DESERT (where you can still get hypothermic at night, so beware of cotton anywhere!).
You hit the nail on the head in two words "cotton kills!" and you got it right: all of my scouting, hiking, backpacking, climbing ...was at higher altitudes in the desert mostly in fair weather:) Our headmaster, ex-marine, made the graduation requirement a 3day backpacking trip in the mountains. They would give you a few matches, and directions to water supplies, that kind of thing, however, it never got very cold and I never learned about cotton:( , So this is lesson#1.
Crazy quesiton, does 'no cotton' apply to boxers and briefs, etc?

Smartwools and Darn Tough Socks are the best socks I've ever used. Period.
I'm all over this one and agree 100%


My favorite boots are from LaSportiva but these are hiking, climbing boots. Sorels are good if you're not moving too far.

This was lesson #2. But I've looked around,e.g. REI (even emailed them) and they just don't have anything wide enough, I need a EE minimum. When my good hiking boots, hand-me-ups from my brother, died of natural causes I've had a hard time replacing them. There are some previous posts that may pan out.

Chemical handwarmers are great. Get small ones and you can shove them in your boots and gloves, pockets, under your hat, etc. There have been a lot of ice climbs I wouldn't have finished without handwarmers in the back of my gloves.

Recently picked up a few of these at REI. People may laugh, but there are days with the wind chill that frostbite is possible ...I also never realized how powerfully nuanced weather conditions affect wardrobe.
thanks kage!
 
Gore-tex,

Good to know. The only boots that I've found that fit are by Tecnica and they came with Gortex; you are right, they were fairly expensive. I don't think that they will be warm enough, but I enjoy wearing them everyday for now.
There is an EMS sports in Boston, and an REI in Reading. Both companies have typically very knowledgeable staff. Most employees are enthusiasts and gear heads too. If it is intimidating, look for the oldest employee, they typically have the most patience and genuinely want to help people suffer less.

This is an astute comment and good suggestion I'll try next time. The times I've been in REI, near Fenway Park, there just aren't many staffers on hand. I've actully gotten more useful, well-thought-out information here and am quite grateful I might add.

"ninja" expenditures as a musician, (by Ninja, I mean the unlimited budget and need the best stuff available) you can opt for Big Name companies with active sport lines. IE: cross country skiing, snowshoeing, etc.

Another good consideration, a great word. :) Yes, that is one of the reasons I turned to you lot because I could see that one could go broke buying, trying, maybe not even the right items. I don't mind spending money if there is value attached!
 
annr: as far as cotton for underwear goes - in my opinion this is a very vital area to wick moisture. Your crotch is the hottest area of your body so it stays moist. This can lead to all sorts of fungal infections and pore clotting (have you ever had monkey butt in the jungle? Sounds funny but isn't.) It can also lead to some horrible chaffing. If you have a problem with your thighs rubbing together and causing chaffing you can also buy longer boxer briefs that will eliminate that, or you can wear spandex shorts (don't worry, nobody will know that you're wearing it and are secretly enjoying living out your 80's glam band fantasy!).

I've had great luck with quick drying boxer briefs from Mountain Hardwear and Smartwools makes some warm goodness out of merino wool that is phenomenal in extreme cold. They do have a weird fly on them that helps you to do a turtle impression. The mircro fiber boxer briefs from Underarmor aren't bad and there are a ton of other makers out there that I'm sure will be just fine.

If you want to pay a lot of money for pretty decent but not great boots check out Limmer, which are custom made for you. Not very modern designs and they're heavy, but good quality.

On a side note about customs: check out Beyond Fleece for great semi-custom designs in jackets and pants that aren't completely outrageous in price (notice I said completely) Mountain Hardwear also has a custom shop that will mode some of their clothing (such as extended sleeves and thumb-holes on jackets).

I hope this helps!

Kage
 
Another vote for the UnderArmor microfiber boxer/briefs! Damp cotton becomes a rasp between the legs!!! :eek:
 
Kage,
Can't say I've been in the jungle, unless you mean here.:) I think that I may have been brain-washed as a kid. Everything was white cotton. White rules: white kleenex, white TP... looks I got this from my mom, a nurse. Judging from your comments , I think that I got away with it or was uncomfortable and didn't suspect the reason. I tried telling her this 'news' about the cotton and she didn't believe me! but when I bought her some SmartWool socks she couldn't stop wearing them, and they weren't white!

I'm going to look into those boot options because you just can't put layers in boots that are too tight. Thanks for all the detail:D

I have a question about the design of footwear and their possible mechanical advantages. I notice that running shoes have a nearly flat sole both on the inside and out so that the weight is centered fairly evenly between the heels and toes. On most of the boots there is a heel, visible either on the interior or exterior. This seem to shift the balance point toward the toes. I like bare feet the best so naturally I like the sneakers better, no heel. In you experience is there a mechanical advantage to raising the heel? in any application?
 
Annr,

Definitely avoid putting too many layers in your boots. It's a common mistakes with clients when I was mountain guiding and a common mistake now with scouts. By putting too many layers on you cut of circulation which causes your feet to get colder instead of getting warmer. Go with a liner sock and then your merino wools socks, but that's it. I don't blister usually, so I normally skip out on the liners.

Remember the outdoor addage: If your feet are cold put on a hat. A beanie/toque/watch cap/toboggan is equal to a light sweater. Lightest piece of warm gear you'll carry. I carry one year around, rain or shine.

You can also layer over the top of your boots with super gaitors or over -boots. Check out 40 Below and Outdoor Research for super gaitors and over boots and also check out Neos for overboots.

I'm not sure about mechanical advantage of shoes. Some boots have some rocker to them which forces your foot to rock forward once you get past the halfway point on the soul. I'm not sure how to describe it. It takes some getting used to but it does work in saving some fatigue as described.

I've wondered about heels too, but it makes it convenient for the understrap of gaitors and makes putting crampons on easier too. Sorry, not a lot of help there.

As far as boots vs. shoes I prefer running shoes if it's not sub-zero temps. I wear mostly trail runners and approach shoes (Montrail are my favorites). The belief in the army is one pound on your feet equals 3 on your back. Makes sense to me. I'm much less tired at the end of the day with trail runners on. I'm an ultralight backpacker and an alpinist so our mantra is "Light is right!" If your feet are cold put on over shoes. If it's icy out put on instep crampons or full crampons with universal bindings.

Hope this helps.

Kage
 
Heels allow you to "dig your heels in" -- to help stop goin' down hill.

That's another benefit to a walking stick = brake.
 
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