water and outdoor knife recommendation

E

ez_rider

Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
87
I spend a lot of time outdoors, canoeing, fishing, camping, hiking, climbing, etc. I've yet to find a single knife that seemed like just the right fit for the bulk of my outdoor activities. I know, "shocker". That's why there's a million different designs out there, and I do have certain blades that are great for individual applications. Knife will see occasional salt water use, bait cutting duties, PB&J sandwich making duties, light branch trimming, rope cutting, food slicing, etc (not necessarily in that order).

Here are the features I am looking for:

Highly rust resistant if not rust proof
Fixed blade
~3.5 to 5 inch blade
full tang

nice-to-haves:

kydex sheath
hi-vis handle
line cutter slot

A ZT 0121 with a touch less belly in H1 steel would be perfect. It might be close enough anyway. Anything else I should be considering?

thanks, from a noob to the forum
 
first of all, welcome to the forum. do you have a budget? if not, start talking to makers. you could have a lot of fun.
 
So what's wrong with a Spyderco Aqua Salt with yellow handles?
 
The Aqua Salt is actually the first one I handled that really sparked my interest, but didn't love the handle shape. It may very well be the one I settle on as my main canoeing blade. I haven't found info about the tang, but the molded handle shows it not to be full tang, yes? Forgive my noob-ness in knife terminology. I just use 'em. :) But as a Spydie, I still expect it to be high quality. Just wondering if there is something very similar with just a little heavier duty use in mind.

Budget-wise, ideally ~$150-200 or less.
 
Yfoyw.jpg
 
Thanks for the pic. That is about what I expected. Am I being too picky by looking for a full tang for a little heavier duty use? I would like to have something I could baton with as I do occasionally use the technique when camping, mostly when setting up a spot for my hammock. Sometimes I carry a machete or hatchet, but if I could ditch those, I'd prefer to do so.
 
ez_rider said:
Thanks for the pic. That is about what I expected. Am I being too picky by looking for a full tang for a little heavier duty use? I would like to have something I could baton with as I do occasionally use the technique when camping, mostly when setting up a spot for my hammock. Sometimes I carry a machete or hatchet, but if I could ditch those, I'd prefer to do so.
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Those knives aren't for that kind of use really, to get that kind of rust resistance they have to give up strength and edge retention most of the time.

Now if you can find a blade in N680 or N690 then you will have all of what you need.

They make dive knives out of N680...
 
What could you possibly use a knife for that you'd need something more heavy duty than that Spyderco shown? I don't imagine you'd ever break it with less than abusive knife use. Just my thoughts.
 
Ankerson said:
Those knives aren't for that kind of use really, to get that kind of rust resistance they have to give up strength and edge retention most of the time.

Now if you can find a blade in N680 or N690 then you will have all of what you need.

They make dive knives out of N680...
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I disagree, you are thinking about conventional stainless and titanium knives.

H1 steel is a use hardened steel that is impervious to rust. The edge gets harder the more you use it (something about the crystaline structure aligning the more it gets friction?) and will reach hardnesses of RC 63-65. I haven't heard any tales about the edge chipping before, but I do know that you can roll it.

I think it will hold up fine for use around and in water. If you only do light batoning and don't pry with it, I think that the partial tang will hold up fine.
 
CWL said:
I disagree, you are thinking about conventional stainless and titanium knives.

H1 steel is a use hardened steel that is impervious to rust. The edge gets harder the more you use it (something about the crystaline structure aligning the more it gets friction?) and will reach hardnesses of RC 63-65. I haven't heard any tales about the edge chipping before, but I do know that you can roll it.

I think it will hold up fine for use around and in water. If you only do light batoning and don't pry with it, I think that the partial tang will hold up fine.
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Production blades aren't any place near 63-65 HRC, more like 58-59 and if they were you would be hearing about Chipping, that edge isn't going to roll at 63-65, it's going to chip out.

I still don't buy into the work hardening of H1......

It's fine at 58-59 though.
 
So, on the flipside, should I be at all worried about rust on something like a ZT 0121, Boss Street, or ESEE4 if I'll have it submerged in the water frequently, occasionally in salt water, but usually not more than a few days at a time before it gets cleaned and oiled?

Thanks for all the info, guys
 
Salt water will really mess stuff up quick. with a 200 dollar budget, I would get a 60 dollar spyderco salt, and then spend the rest on a good fixed blade. that is my opinion, do what you would like.
 
I haven't been able to find one at that price. For $60 I agree it is definitely worth having even if I get something else for heavier duty. I only need salt water resistance occasionally, and only need HD use about as often, at different time of course.

I've looked at the Google for someone with the Aqua Salt yellow, but no one seems to have any left. And the blacks I've found are going for $100+. Am I not checking the rights places?

Thanks
 
ez_rider said:
So, on the flipside, should I be at all worried about rust on something like a ZT 0121, Boss Street, or ESEE4 if I'll have it submerged in the water frequently, occasionally in salt water, but usually not more than a few days at a time before it gets cleaned and oiled?

Thanks for all the info, guys
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nearly any stainless could rust up on you if you dip it in salt water and then leave it for a few days. But also, even the least rust resistant steels will still be usable after a good sharpening session. But if you are taking a knife out there with you, you should at least be making sure it's relatively clean and dry before you go to sleep.
 
ez_rider said:
An ESEE 4 SS would be right up my alley.
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Then I would get a Bark River STS-3. I dont have one, but I want one, and it seems like it would fit your needs.

-Great company, steel, handles, sheath, shape/design. Why don't I have one again??? haha You can get em for $130-150.
 
Ankerson said:
Production blades aren't any place near 63-65 HRC, more like 58-59 and if they were you would be hearing about Chipping, that edge isn't going to roll at 63-65, it's going to chip out.

I still don't buy into the work hardening of H1......

It's fine at 58-59 though.
Click to expand...

Have any tests of production H1 knives, and maybe some of the other virtually stainless knives?? Or any plans too?
 
That Bark River is another great suggestion. I like the partial powdercoat, assuming it means a little better rust protection inside the scales. Thanks for all of the solid recommendations thus far.
 
Maybe take a look at Entrek knives? Pretty well made, very durable, and made out of stainless steel. Until the ESEE 4 SS comes out that'd be my recommendation.

Personally an h1 folder and a carbon steel fixed full tang fixed blade is the best combo, but if I'm around water I have my pfd, which makes it easier to keep the folder handy I guess.
 
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