Water Cooled Grinding

I like the Koolmist type systems, but running a fine mist only works for me when the humidity is fairly low. I'm in South Carolina and last summer, the mist often had very little cooling effect, so I used the system to put out a lot more water (works, but makes a mess). During the winter and spring, just a little mist would make my hands get numb because of the cold. The situation is likely similar or worse on the Gulf coast.
 
With more belts being made that are water proof including some Trizacs as well water cooling is even more useful. I just use a squirt bottle with soapy water and it's still useful but I can't wait for a full-time setup where I can keep the water on while I have the belt running wide open and hog off material. Does the water make ceramic belts last longer for cutting hardened steel?
 
Yes. However, it still takes speed and pressure to get the proper cutting form a ceramic belt.

I have had people contact me about not getting good stock removal with a ceramic belt, but doing fine with a cheap AO belt or a CZ belt. After a few questions it is almost always a small, often home built, grinder with a 1HP motor and running at a slower speed. Some have asked if a spray system will help. I tell them that a spray system is always helpful, but to stick with CZ until they can get/make a grinder that will run fast and has the power to take more pressure without stalling.

Many new makers ask about the adage, "Use belts like the are free and change to a fresh belt whenever the grinding slows down." That rule is pretty good, but with a ceramic belt that is being used right, a quick refresh with a dressing bar will make it a new belt. This can be done many times before the cubic/structured grains are worn off the belt.
 
Storm W said:
With more belts being made that are water proof including some Trizacs as well water cooling is even more useful. I just use a squirt bottle with soapy water and it's still useful but I can't wait for a full-time setup where I can keep the water on while I have the belt running wide open and hog off material. Does the water make ceramic belts last longer for cutting hardened steel?
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It depends on the belt imho... the 984f 120 grit belts will 'cup' after they get soaked so I find I can only grind a bit with them then have to hang them up to dry and move to a new belt. With the Blaze's otoh, the water makes them last for a LONG time. and as Stacy says, you can freshen them up a few times w/ a diamond dressing stick.

VSM also works well but tends to cup the opposite way of the 984's. I hate any cupping of the belt, I like them flat and the Blaze belts have been the answer for me.

The above info applies to 120 grit specifically, I haven't checked on 60 grit and I'm sure 36 grit would react differently.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
9 year old thread, but still relevant.
I now recommend a Kool-mist type spray system. The clones are $10-20. Use the Kool-mist concentrate in the coolant tank .

As for the big wheels, I got them on ebay for next to nothing. Shipping was reasonable. I bough some after that old post and shipping was $30.
Two are Norton and two are Noritake wheels. I have them in straight edge (like a grindstone), and 45° Bevel edge, for a flat grinder (like a Blanchard).
I see plenty on ebay today, but they are around $250 plus freight.

You haven't filled out your profile, so I don't know where you live to give any advice on getting one. You could be my neighbor for all I know, and have one of my extras.
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Okay, thanks. I like the idea of using a large grinding stone because I think it would be cheaper and produce less waste than grinding belts.
But for now, I think I'll buy a cool mist and a better air compressor.

I just filled out my profile. Sadly we aren't neighbors though.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Yes. However, it still takes speed and pressure to get the proper cutting form a ceramic belt.

I have had people contact me about not getting good stock removal with a ceramic belt, but doing fine with a cheap AO belt or a CZ belt. After a few questions it is almost always a small, often home built, grinder with a 1HP motor and running at a slower speed. Some have asked if a spray system will help. I tell them that a spray system is always helpful, but to stick with CZ until they can get/make a grinder that will run fast and has the power to take more pressure without stalling.

Many new makers ask about the adage, "Use belts like the are free and change to a fresh belt whenever the grinding slows down." That rule is pretty good, but with a ceramic belt that is being used right, a quick refresh with a dressing bar will make it a new belt. This can be done many times before the cubic/structured grains are worn off the belt.
Click to expand...
I find that used belts work great for hogging of material and I save new belts for the last little bit on a thin hard blade when I'm bringing everything flat and getting ready for finish grinding. I only have a 2 horse on my esteem but other than thick blades I don't usually grind hard enough to slow it down much although now that I have had my workspace wired up I need to get it on 220 instead of the 20 amp 110.
 
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