Waxing Blades

I myself use a product called Sno-Seal for stacked leather handles, leather sheaths, boots ect. It is a beeswax product that contains silicon. It will swell old leather handles back to size, making them tight again. Works wonders. Just spread it on and heat with a blow drier until it melts and work in.
 
RX-79G said:
Rick,

I'm not "missing the point"
Click to expand...

Are you sure? I really don't want to be rude, but you've turned "stating your opinion" into an argument by snapping back with a bunch of facts, and with a condescending attitude all to support your claims. You may want to check out the rules on proper forum edicate. The purpose of this thread was to pass on a blade protection technique that is inexpensive, easy, and effective that can also be done anywhere at anytime. You might want to think about the practicality of everything you've said with that in mind. Please refrain from posting anymore argumentative comments. Feel free to start your own thread.
 
Blades&Bullets said:
RICK,
What are the benefits of waxing coated blades? Does it slow the wear of the coating or make it easier to clean?
GSM mentioned it smooths out the action on kydex sheaths. Can this cause buildup in the sheath, or is the coating too thin for that to be an issue?
Click to expand...

The benefit is lubrication. The wax eliminates a lot of friction during all types of use. I, personally like the look of textured coatings a lot, and this is a great way to lose friction while keeping looks. First time I did this I was amazed by how fast my blade carved with minimal effort. It will slow the wearing to a degree due to it being a thin coating of wax that itself will wear off depending on use intensity. It will repel any wet debris, and trap dry debris which will be easily cleaned away.

There shouldn't be any build up in kydex sheaths. That's all I have, and haven't had any build up yet. Just wipe your blade before sheathing as usual. I've always had a debris buildup problem when using oil protectants. I can see a wax buildup on leather sheaths if heavy coats are applied. They are tighter, and have a lot of friction to pull off the wax. After sheathing and unsheathing a lot I would think the knife would slide a lot easier in and out. Also, the interior of the sheath would be sealed off from moisture for the most part. I don't have any leather sheaths, so I can't speak from experience on that.

Hope this sufficiently answers your questions, which were good ones, btw.
 
Yeah, you pretty much covered everything. Thanks for the thorough answer.
I'll have to keep this in mind. I grew up using gun oil and WD-40 on my knives so wax is a new one for me.
I've read where members strip the coating on BK knives to "reduce drag" but since I would rather leave the protective coating on, this may be a better alternative.
Thanks again for the information and pics.
 
Blades&Bullets said:
I've read where members strip the coating on BK knives to "reduce drag" but since I would rather leave the protective coating on, this may be a better alternative.
Click to expand...
There's also sanding.

You can get a slick 'black mirror' finish with 2000 grit while still maintaining a protective coating.
 
Blades&Bullets said:
Yeah, you pretty much covered everything. Thanks for the thorough answer.
I'll have to keep this in mind. I grew up using gun oil and WD-40 on my knives so wax is a new one for me.
I've read where members strip the coating on BK knives to "reduce drag" but since I would rather leave the protective coating on, this may be a better alternative.
Thanks again for the information and pics.
Click to expand...

You're welcome. I'll be adding some more to this thread in the coming days.
 
Silver Needle said:
Thanks for the link. I've ever only found it online as well.
Click to expand...

I didn't bother to look anyplace but Amazon. If you find it in a brick and mortar store I can almost guarantee it will be more expensive


Oh, and here's an interesting bit of info on the benefits:
http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

And this youtube clip really points out benefits and other uses for the wax. If its good enough for the British Museum...its good enough for me. ;')
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OZagOg2Bek
 
The Renaissance wax looks like good stuff to use on blades, and other stuff while at home. It looks worth purchasing, and using regularly. But, this thread is about a technique that can be done anywhere. A block a paraffin can easily be carried in a pack when going on prolonged trips away from conveniences. Plus it has the added benefit of adding helpful lubrication, as well as protection. Not to mention all of its other helpful uses. I'd definitely use Renaissance wax here at home.
 
RX-79G said:
Woodcraft advertises it. If you have a Woodcraft store in your area I'd give them a call.
Click to expand...
I'm not so fortunate, but thanks for the tip.

ichor said:
I didn't bother to look anyplace but Amazon. If you find it in a brick and mortar store I can almost guarantee it will be more expensive


Oh, and here's an interesting bit of info on the benefits:
http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

And this youtube clip really points out benefits and other uses for the wax. If its good enough for the British Museum...its good enough for me. ;')
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OZagOg2Bek
Click to expand...
I'll check it out. Thanks for the information!
 
CM_Rick said:
The benefit is lubrication. The wax eliminates a lot of friction during all types of use. I, personally like the look of textured coatings a lot, and this is a great way to lose friction while keeping looks. First time I did this I was amazed by how fast my blade carved with minimal effort. It will slow the wearing to a degree due to it being a thin coating of wax that itself will wear off depending on use intensity. It will repel any wet debris, and trap dry debris which will be easily cleaned away.

There shouldn't be any build up in kydex sheaths. That's all I have, and haven't had any build up yet. Just wipe your blade before sheathing as usual. I've always had a debris buildup problem when using oil protectants. I can see a wax buildup on leather sheaths if heavy coats are applied. They are tighter, and have a lot of friction to pull off the wax. After sheathing and unsheathing a lot I would think the knife would slide a lot easier in and out. Also, the interior of the sheath would be sealed off from moisture for the most part. I don't have any leather sheaths, so I can't speak from experience on that.

Hope this sufficiently answers your questions, which were good ones, btw.
Click to expand...

Rick,
I've used wax on my blades for years and so did most of our great grandmothers and father on many household carbon steel items from knives, scissors to coating the outside of the fridge and Maytag washer in tropical/coastal areas. In scissors it adds a lube effect as well.

The canning wax you have purchased is edible and food safe so is great for carbon steel knives that food may be eaten off of.

For field knives I've used Johnston's floor wax, the Renaissance wax and one of the best i've found for polishing up my stainless custom knives and the wood handles for shows is Rain Dance Auto wax. I'm sure any auto wax will do the job but remember it will make it shine if you are a secret operative kind of guy!;)

These auto waxes are cheap in comparison and start in a liquid state along with I'm sure most of you guys have some in the garage already.

Also wax works great on folder pivots and won't attract lint or dirt like oils will.

Happy new year!

Everyone stay safe and have fun.
 
I've been on the fence for a while now as to a good blade coating, and thanks to this thread, I just found it.
Not too worried abou patenas and what not.
Had a box o this wax at the woodworking shop, that was used for coating the tops of some of the machines.
The heat is the trick!!....Used a heat gun to melt the wax on the blades, and man did they turn out great!!
Gonna see how long it takes till it starts to rust, but I'm hopefull it will take awhile!!
Thanks for the info!!
 
Thank you CM..... I used to use Pledge on guns a long time ago and cannot remember when or why I quit...LOL... I keep a tall coffee can of food grade parrafin that I heat to melting in a water bath over a no flame heat source to dip leather washer knife handles in to stabilize them, which is a trick I learned from Larry Harley......I have been using paste wax on saw tables but will try the parrafin trick for sure..... There is a Sxteen at home that will be getting the treatment on my return.

Great post.....

Ethan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top