Waxing Blades

Pinnacle5560,

I have tested Frog Lube for rust resistance against Bees, Ren., Turtle and Johnson's Wax. Frog Lube was best, Johnson's a distant 2nd and the others not in the running. All the waxes would be OK for normal uses, but my test included salt water for extended periods. Didn't test Gulf Wax, but suspect the results would be the same. Flog Lube is claimed to be nontoxic by the maker. Even FL failed when I later smeared it with blood, my blood, from a little accident.:mad: oh and a little tip, FL performed better for me when the metal was warmed when applying. I do NOT sell FL or any association with it.
 
Well, I knew I'd find a use for that big block of wax my wife has for her art projects.

Definitely going to be doing this to my BK-17. Thanks for the tutorial! I really love this forum. :p
 
I'm glad it's working out for all who try this. It's been really effective for me. Also, I use a stove eye for the heat source. Should be the same as a heat gun, but without the fan.
 
CalmAsHinduCows said:
Would 100% Beeswax work as well?
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I've not used beeswax for this, because my only experience with it has lead me to believe it's too sticky. The beeswax is a less saturated hydrocarbon, and will not "harden" or "dry" as well as paraffin, either. But, if you, or anyone else tries it out please let me know. I like to use beeswax for making tindercakes. It burns way, better, longer, and cleaner than paraffin.
 
CM_Rick said:
I've not used beeswax for this, because my only experience with it has lead me to believe it's too sticky. The beeswax is a less saturated hydrocarbon, and will not "harden" or "dry" as well as paraffin, either. But, if you, or anyone else tries it out please let me know. I like to use beeswax for making tindercakes. It burns way, better, longer, and cleaner than paraffin.
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That makes sense. I was just looking for another food safe alternative. But, after doing some reading, Paraffin seems plenty food safe. I'll definitely try this out.

Instead of using a hair dryer, could I just buff the wax with the cloth until the friction naturally melts it in?
 
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CalmAsHinduCows said:
That makes sense. I was just looking for another food safe alternative. But, after doing some reading, Paraffin seems plenty food safe. I'll definitely try this out.

Instead of using a hair dryer, could I just buff the wax with the cloth until the friction naturally melts it in?
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Paraffin is totally food safe. The wax will stay bonded to the knife blade before it does most foods. Being that most foods contain a lot of water that would repel the wax away, anyways.

Polishing will be enough to melt the wax into pocks, and crevices. I use a fast, small circles motion to polish it. Be careful on the edge. Make sure to do more than one coat. I always apply two coats. Anymore than that, and it starts to get a little too thick. Adding heat will bring out a real luster to the wax. I just wave the blade over a hot stove eye until it looks good. The only time there will be a white-ish residue is when applied to the textured coating. Any smooth surfaces should polish right up without residue.
 
CM_Rick said:
Paraffin is totally food safe. The wax will stay bonded to the knife blade before it does most foods. Being that most foods contain a lot of water that would repel the wax away, anyways.

Polishing will be enough to melt the wax into pocks, and crevices. I use a fast, small circles motion to polish it. Be careful on the edge. Make sure to do more than one coat. I always apply two coats. Anymore than that, and it starts to get a little too thick. Adding heat will bring out a real luster to the wax. I just wave the blade over a hot stove eye until it looks good. The only time there will be a white-ish residue is when applied to the textured coating. Any smooth surfaces should polish right up without residue.
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Awesome! I think I found a new way to protect my blade in the field. Plus, I can use the paraffin for other purposes in the bush.

I've always like the idea of using wax over oil. I know they are both basically the same thing and protect just about the same. I just happen to like wax better.
 
So, I stopped into my local Woodcraft store today to pick up some curly maple, and look into the Renaissance wax. It was $30 per can. Not bad, but I noticed another product for under $10. It's maid of pure beeswax, and food grade mineral oil.

This stuff is completely food safe, and after talking to an employee that has used it I'm under the impression that it is very comparable to Renaissance wax at a third of the cost. The guy says it drys hard, and does not get tacky under heavy hand use (like on a wooden knife scale). I'm going to try it out tomorrow, and later try it on some polished micarte.
 
Thank you, Rick!

After doing tons of reading on some of the best waxes and oils to use on your blade, this brand popped up over and over again in different threads and forums. I think it is a definite winner, but I'll wait for you do some tests first before I decide. :D
 
I use Baby Oil or Paraffin Oil for all my slipjoints
I have a damp toothbrush with some Baby Oil for working into the joints

This damp toothbrush is very good for all my carbon steel fixed blades
It quickly and cleanly puts a thin film of oil on the blades, you see the color of the blade blue slightly

Easy, fast and clean to use
 
I'm a little sad to say, but the George's Club House Wax was exactly what I thought a beeswax would be... tacky on the blade after "drying". I'm not even going to try it on any handles. It wasn't a complete bust as I'm still going to use it around the house. It's just not as good as the paraffin method.
 
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CM_Rick said:
Look at the water bead off the waxed blade of my 9
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Beautiful shots, Rick! Are those HDR? And that waxing does a heck of a job on beading that water. That's definitely what I'll be doing to my blade from now on.

And, sad to hear that about the Club House Wax. I kept hearing such highly regarded reviews about it. Well, at least it can be washed off. :p Thanks again for taking the plunge and trying it, so I didn't have to.
 
Yeah, there's a little HDR going on there. And, no problem. I like to try new products/methods for stuff like this. I'll be giving the Renaissance wax a shot next on my TM Hunt custom. 😉
 
Plain old pure Carnuba wax with no additives works excellent and I can put multiple coats on a knife do the handles and blade and buff at the same time. Important with solid steel no 1 or 2 white or blue steel. As a chef can go a few weeks between waxing. And it is hard
 
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