We need a heat treat chart!

Great information on your site Mr. Cashen! I think a starting point is all many of us are looking for, and that site provides exactly that.

BTW, I'm not sure if you are aware but the 1095, w1, and w2 links are dead.
 
zaph1 said:
Thank you, Kevin. Much great info there. I really enjoyed this picture.
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barnett25 said:
Great information on your site Mr. Cashen! I think a starting point is all many of us are looking for, and that site provides exactly that.

BTW, I'm not sure if you are aware but the 1095, w1, and w2 links are dead.
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:oYes I should have apologized for those in advance. :oThat would be from the “W” steels or 1095. About a year and a half ago, I launched my ambitious project of totally overhauling cashenblades.com with an all new design, but the first step was to move the old site to a new server. In the process of doing this many files got lost or corrupted, I wanted to fix it all but asked myself what I wanted to spend my time and efforts on- patching together the amateurish and cobbled up old cashenblades.com or finishing the new page. I opted for the latter but have been bogged down in my neurotic perfectionism on the graphics ever since. The result is a wreck of a website full of broken links that I must apologize for until I can complete and launch the new cashenblades.com
 
zaph1 said:
Kevin, in case no one has told you lately, most of us on BF do appreciate all the work you do in helping us.
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I sure appreciate it! Kevin is the source for heat treat information as far as I am concerned.

The main reason for the chart was because I couldn't get Kevin's site to work for me a few nights ago, I had a piece of O1 to treat and could not find any agreement on how to treat it. :D I go to his site and read all the time so I can further understand this complex subject.


I realized the need for a set of starting temperatures when I didn't know where to start. I read the stickys and thought... "I now have a better grip on the science used in heat treating but I'm still not exactly sure where to set the kiln."

Surely 1450-1500 would be better than heating it with a torch to non magnetic for O1, a 5 minute soak at 1450-1500 would be even better than holding it at red hot for a while. You see loads of ideas and have to sort through the bad ones...

(my thoughts on why we need a chart :D )
 
Nice charts there, especially the tempering chart.

Does anyone have a list of steels that will take a nice hamon? I'd love to have that in the chart.
 
I'm still waiting to see heat treatment and tempering advice for wootz. Or are those the W-links Kevin is working on now? ;)
 
tryppyr said:
I'm still waiting to see heat treatment and tempering advice for wootz. Or are those the W-links Kevin is working on now? ;)
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I want the forging temp for wootz. ;)
In other words, at what temp does hitting wootz with a hammer not pulverize it?:p
 
Attached is the Excel spreadsheet and a PDF copy of the latest HT chart. I've added some disclaimers and links to available HT charts. I still think this is a useful chart, even if it merely hangs on the wall and never gets used. I would really appreciate if someone could help with which steels can get a nice frosty hamon. I read that the presence of Mn would prevent a sharp hamon, but I've seen hamons on 1095 and it contains Mn.

If you disagree with any of the HT formula, please let me know. These are taken from manufacturer data sheets, Evenheat's HT guide, Sandvik's web page which is about the most knife maker friendly page I've seen from a manufacturer, and some common HT formula as determined by several dozen threads here on BF. There are almost always other formula for HT, and I didn't list much about tempering, except when it recommend triple tempering.
 

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zaph1 said:
... I would really appreciate if someone could help with which steels can get a nice frosty hamon. I read that the presence of Mn would prevent a sharp hamon, but I've seen hamons on 1095 and it contains Mn...
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Any of the 10XX series or the “W” series will make a nice hamon, it is the guys who work with water that hate the Mn, but the traditional techniques with water used tamahagane which is not modern steel so there is a disconnect there. Those who have successfully made the adjustment to fast oils find Mn to be less of a problem, or even an asset, and are producing beautiful hamon with almost any shallow hardening steel. But if you treat 1084 like it is tamahagane the Mn will let you know that it is not by giving you back pieces of blades.
 
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