Weak Opening Spring on 110 Auto?

Only automatics I own are one Buck 110 elite and a Microtech ludt. They are both nice in my opinion. They don't get carried a lot though because in my state it is legal to own them, but "concealed" carry is illegal. So I pick and choose when I have them on me because I don't need to run into a State Highway Patrol having a bad day while I am carrying a "concealed deadly weapon". So I haven't worn them out by use yet and they both work extremely well.

But I know a few guys that have carried autos a lot more than me and it seems like even the best can be somewhat finicky. More things to break or get dirty vs. the plain old back locks etc. All that said, I can easily see why the occasional new 110 or 112 auto would need to be cleaned. The way they are finished at the factory sometimes leaves a small amount of polishing compound in the nooks and crannies. Also being pinned some are tight and need broken in. Not a big deal to me. Some knives I get from other companies are dry of oil. It's not long before I clean and oil all of them. No biggie.

All that said, I have messed with the Bokers years ago and they seemed stout. I liked them. I've played with Microtech otfs and I liked them too. Handled a few Benchmade autos. They were ok. But you couldn't give me a box full of those DHgate pieces for my one Buck 110.
 
Last edited:
I've played with my 110 auto for a couple years now,it's never cut anything ,I just take it out and play with it,push the button,watch it fire,repeat lol.Its fast and has a great fire to it,I've tried several all with the same fast firing as my own.Maybe the action needs cleaning,try that and see if it doesn't get better.
 
Well, I cleaned it with warm soapy water, then sprayed it with WD-40, then compressed air. Finally, applied Eezox oil. Opened and closed it numerous times through each step. It still barely opens.

Considering that this one was a replacement for my original order which was even worse, I will stick to regular Buck 110 folders from now on. This "auto" is a joke...
 
@KWilliams,If I remember right they take in the auto's and put them aside because they cannot ship to a regular residence according to the law. I was thinking, how did you receive the second one? Instead of fixing something they cannot send back, they pull a new one from stock and send it as a replacement, to a certified dealer. That is how they fix them. Would like to hear how you received the second one.
 
Last edited:
While at the Kittery trading post in Maine,I noticed a big selection of autos that they never carried before,I played with several buck 110 autos there including the new g10/s30/v model,all seemed the same as mine ,I'm sure a bad spring can happen,contact Buck Knives and they will tell you how to go about getting it replaced,easy as that.
 
I worked as a tool and die maker in a spring company. It's true Batches of bad springs can get through Q.C. and it can be the customers fault. These springs that are installed in Buck autos could have been designed wrong and made to the position that Buck requested on their blueprints and when installed do not have the right free position creating less tension. The only way to fix it is to put a new spring in with a different free position. So this could be the reason the first newer auto's work fine and they start using a second batch of springs with a bad free position and it will barely move the blade to get locked. This can be why taking a different knife out of the same batch will work the same way. I have one and it works to my satisfaction. The flick of the blade is somewhat weak but it beats using two hands to open and that is what I was looking for. I can see weaker springs not doing the job even if you clean 'til it's spring.
 
Last edited:
JOE NOWICKI said:
I worked as a tool and die maker in a spring company. It's true Batches of bad springs can get through Q.C. and it can be the customers fault. These springs that are installed in Buck autos could have been designed wrong and made to the position that Buck requested on their blueprints and when installed do not have the right free position creating less tension. The only way to fix it is to put a new spring in with a different free position. So this could be the reason the first newer auto's work fine and they start using a second batch of springs with a bad free position and it will barely move the blade to get locked. This can be why taking a different knife out of the same batch will work the same way. I have one and it works to my satisfaction. The flick of the blade is somewhat weak but it beats using two hands to open and that is what I was looking for. I can see weaker springs not doing the job even if you clean 'til it's spring.
Click to expand...

Hey Joe,
Is there any advantage to storing the knife in the open position?
Maybe storing it that way will help keep the spring from weakening, or effecting it's "memory"?
Just a thought..... I know that when storing an old car it can be wise to store the vehicle with the weight off of the springs......
Thanks. I appreciate your insight.
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hear about your 110 auto still having problems after cleaning and oiling . Not sure what’s causing it but I’m sure Buck will make good on it, they did for me a few years ago and it was my fault. I know it’s a bummer after spending a hefty sum and then having to send it back but it’s good to be able to and I’ve heard they will send a prepaid mailer if you call beforehand. As I posted earlier my 110 auto was a bit sluggish at first but cleaning and oiling fixed it to fire briskly and lock every time. I don’t know if I’ll use it as much as my other 110s but it is fun to fire it and with nickel silver bolsters and orange g10 handles it’s nice looking so I get that enjoyment from it. Lol. I hope they get you fixed up and a quick turn around !
 
GPyro GPyro , If the spring was heat treated at the right temp. it does not matter, store it open or closed. If it was heated too low it will take a set and lose it's elasticity. With a car it is good to take all the weight off of all the suspension. My experience with the one Buck, made by Buck auto was after receiving it,it was gummed up from the polishing compound and I cleaned it with Dawn soap and hot water and an old toothbrush and after, used a high volume of compressed air and saw pieces of dirt fly out. I oiled with Z-Max which is supposed to be absorbed by the metal and work as a lubricant. It springs out but nothing like other Buck autos I own that were voided for the warranty but could be returned for any reason.:) I do like the knife and I carry it in my rotation when the feeling is right. I really do like the one hand opener.Some springs, compression springs have to be made longer and then pressed after heat treat to get the right length on the blueprint. Not all compression springs need that. These are torsion springs that are installed in Buck autos.


Buck-Auto-s-001.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice stuff Joe.
Thanks for the feedback.
It's great to have access to folks that know these things.:thumbsup:
 
This subject is something I know plenty about. I also was a Chicago P.O. and was shot while on duty and that ended my career. It entered my palm came out my wrist and into the left side of my chest. I shot my weapon and so did my partner. One of us put the man in heaven or hell or just dead. I was 24 at the time. I went to trade school and learned to be a tool & diemaker and did that for 28 years with the same spring company, now one of the largest in the U.S. I retired and live a normal life outside Chicago with my wife and dog D.O.G. I got into collecting knives and now have been losing interest in them but after collecting Cold Steel I focused on Buck knives. I sold most of the rare and collectable. I buy 2 Buck knives a year a new 110 finger groove and a new 110. Have A Good Day!! Joe
 
Last edited:
JOE NOWICKI said:
I worked as a tool and die maker in a spring company. It's true Batches of bad springs can get through Q.C. and it can be the customers fault. These springs that are installed in Buck autos could have been designed wrong and made to the position that Buck requested on their blueprints and when installed do not have the right free position creating less tension. The only way to fix it is to put a new spring in with a different free position. So this could be the reason the first newer auto's work fine and they start using a second batch of springs with a bad free position and it will barely move the blade to get locked. This can be why taking a different knife out of the same batch will work the same way. I have one and it works to my satisfaction. The flick of the blade is somewhat weak but it beats using two hands to open and that is what I was looking for. I can see weaker springs not doing the job even if you clean 'til it's spring.
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20230315_174032_Edge.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top