Webbing loops for kydex sheaths

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Mar 12, 2013
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Hey guys!
I make kydex sheaths for all my knives as I'm a fan of it's low maintenance and also the ability to do without straps/clips for knife retention, however I'm not a fan of all the fancy belt attachment methods out there (Tek-lock, etc...). With that in mind I've been looking for a nice way to do a belt loop from webbing, in order to keep with the low-maintenance setup of my knives.

I haven't seen too many people using webbing for belt loops so I though I'd share what I've learnt, as it turns out there's a bunch of leg-work to get the right stuff!

1) It's very hard to find webbing that's the right stiffness for a solid belt loop. Most webbing, even the stuff suppliers describe as 'stiff', is actually quite supple. I wanted webbing with a stiffness close to that of 7-8oz leather in order to make sure that the sheath wouldn't flop about. I bought several hundred yards of many different types of webbing from several suppliers before finding something that worked. This webbing from Lowy is what I'm using, it's inexpensive, extremely strong and it's also the stiffest I was able to find:

http://www.lowyusa.com/wbscu112

Unfortunately you have to buy a minimum of 50 yards, luckily it's not too expensive. If you're making a bunch of knives it definitely seems like it's worth it even though you have to buy in bulk.

2) Cutting the webbing and keeping edges that are acceptably neat is not super hard to do, but it's non-obvious how to get the cleanest result. I initially tried making a hot-knife that would form the end and also round the edges in one go. Unfortunately when you use a hot-knife you get significant build-up of melted plastic at the edge and it looks unprofessional. I tried cutting with a hobby knife and then cauterizing the frayed end but that ended up quite ragged.

What worked in the end was to use the belly of a sharp knife to saw through the webbing while it's laid flat on a cutting mat. The downward pressure applied over a wide area seems to stop any fraying. You can then run the flame from a ligher over the cut end quickly and end up with a very neat result.

3) Attaching the webbing to the sheath in a clean and sturdy way: I tried a number of different methods, but in the end simple #8-9 rivets worked the best. The rivets are put through holes in the webbing that are created by burning through the webbing with a piece of very hot 1/4" steel rod.

Leather would definitely be an easier option to be honest, but I'm convinced that the webbing will prove to be a good choice with it's weather resistance and strength.

Here's some photos of the finished product. I still need to test that the little kydex attachment plate is strong enough, but I'm very happy with how it's worked out otherwise. The stiff belt loop mounted near the mid-point on the sheath very much stays out of your way, and does not flap or swing even when running.

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Feedback and criticism welcomed! If anyone else is using webbing for belt loops I'd love to hear of your experiences!

-Aaron
 
I hear ya on the tek-loks! I like this solution. I will add that a lot of the military web gear that uses rivets/grommets have a backing washer to help resist pull-through.

Bob
 
I hear ya on the tek-loks! I like this solution. I will add that a lot of the military web gear that uses rivets/grommets have a backing washer to help resist pull-through.

Bob

Bob,
Would the pull-through you mention be more likely to be through the webbing? Or through the kydex? Do you have a source for washers you'd recommend, as that sounds like a reasonable suggestion!
 
I like that! Not a huge fan of the Tek Lock either. Spyderco G-clip is a pretty simple solution, but I like the look of the webbing even more.

Glad you found the appropriate stuff, I remember you looking for it a while back.

Reminds me of the modern, high tech rendition of a dangler strap.
 
Very nice Aaron! You're a guy after my own heart! Always looking for a better way to build the mouse trap! Good job on this webbing! Looks like tough stuff!
 
I like that! Not a huge fan of the Tek Lock either. Spyderco G-clip is a pretty simple solution, but I like the look of the webbing even more.

Glad you found the appropriate stuff, I remember you looking for it a while back.

Reminds me of the modern, high tech rendition of a dangler strap.

The main issue I have with the g-clip is the same as the tek-lock and such, they really want to be placed on the body of the sheath, and that means the knife rides way too high... I've tried making kydex drop panels to lower the whole assembly when using something like that, but they tend to get in the way and are quite bulky.

Glad you like the look of it! I may have to do some tweaks to improve strength (depending on how my testing goes) but overall I like the look too!

Very nice Aaron! You're a guy after my own heart! Always looking for a better way to build the mouse trap! Good job on this webbing! Looks like tough stuff!

Thanks mate! Yes, I have no doubts the webbing itself will last very well, I just have to make sure the attachment points/methods are strong enough to keep up!
 
I like blade tek MOLLE-loks and such for what they are designed for, mounting to duty gear and MOLLE vests/carriers. But for a normal belt, good approach. I have used a lot of webbing for various things over the years, and one of the ways to avoid pull through was always to use a very sharp knitting needle type deal to pierce a hole. It moves the fibers aside instead of cutting or burning any of them in half. You obviously can't do this close to the edge of a piece of webbing, but it does help a great deal. Then making sure the edges of any rivets or grommets are smooth helps stop fraying around them.

Nicely done.
 
This is an awesome idea Aaron . Do you mind if I try it on a sheath I have coming up?

For my own carry, I like high ride sheath. Specifically the lock I use is the clip lock from Usa knifemaker.

uploadfromtaptalk1390513488388.jpguploadfromtaptalk1390513501084.jpg
 
I like blade tek MOLLE-loks and such for what they are designed for, mounting to duty gear and MOLLE vests/carriers. But for a normal belt, good approach. I have used a lot of webbing for various things over the years, and one of the ways to avoid pull through was always to use a very sharp knitting needle type deal to pierce a hole. It moves the fibers aside instead of cutting or burning any of them in half. You obviously can't do this close to the edge of a piece of webbing, but it does help a great deal. Then making sure the edges of any rivets or grommets are smooth helps stop fraying around them.

Nicely done.

Does the 'piercing' technique work with larger rivets? For that matter what kind of rivets do you recommend with webbing? I'm just using kydex rivets, but if there's something more suitable out there I'd love to get that!

This is an awesome idea Aaron . Do you mind if I try it on a sheath I have coming up?

For my own carry, I like high ride sheath. Specifically the lock I use is the clip lock from Usa knifemaker.

I don't mind at all mate! I shared because I hadn't seen too many webbing loops and they seem like a really practical solution.

I can totally understand that a high carry would work well for some applications (and I'm guessing smaller knives will work better too), but for something like my 5" Resolute that's 10" overall the high carry wasn't really working out :)
 
Aaron, we used everything from pop-rivets to chainrings, and Chicago screws to grommets. Pop-rivets have to go through a washer for webbing to webbing contact. And grommets/eyelets we use the double sided or two piece kind.

I dont know how stiff the webbing you got is... we have done the piercing with stuff as soft as climbing gear type webbing all the way to firehose stiff... Works well up to about a 1/4" hole... Anything larger we burn through just like you did. Some of it takes a bit of effort to get through, but since it doesnt sever any threads it is less likely to fray or tear. At least starting at the hole.

That method is a bit out of the norm though, as I know Blackhawk and Safariland at least burn through. So it may be a fix for a nonexistent problem. For example the webbing on my Safariland drop-leg is very stiff. The holster is mounted to the webbing with three allen head bolts that go through a washer, the webbing, and directly into the holster. I've got 7 years and probably 250 entries on one holster with no issues...

To cut it, my old crew had a 3" hot knife in reverse kinda thing. It looked like a hinged papercutter blade in reverse and miniature. The bottom 'blade' is heated by current flowing through it. The top hinged portion is just a bar with a groove on it. Pull the webbing through, lay it on the blade and drop the bar. Made a nice clean cut on both sides, keeping what was left on the roll from fraying too... Works best if you can pull the two ends away simultaneously. For thinner webbing you could honestly just pull it down over the blade without having to use the cross bar.

I don't do much of the tactical/modern stuff with my knifemaking, stick more to the wood and leather... Guys like you already put out great knives I am content just to buy... I really like the look of your stuff and the webbing beltloop is great, giving some flex to that rigid gear.

I always have extra gear laying around it seems so if there's anything of that sort you need pics or measurements of, drop me a line.

-Eric
 
I was just searching for a way to do this ty very much for posting. I wonder if walmarts fabric section sells it. if not im have several old pool cue cases I can salvage some from lol
 
Bob,
Would the pull-through you mention be more likely to be through the webbing? Or through the kydex? Do you have a source for washers you'd recommend, as that sounds like a reasonable suggestion!

Ultimate strength would probably result from putting one on each side. I know you like to do tests so I'm confident you'll determine the best configuration. Personally, I would order 1/4" flat aluminum washers from McMaster.com but I've heard they won't ship to Canada.

Bob
 
Aaron, we used everything from pop-rivets to chainrings, and Chicago screws to grommets. Pop-rivets have to go through a washer for webbing to webbing contact. And grommets/eyelets we use the double sided or two piece kind.

I dont know how stiff the webbing you got is... we have done the piercing with stuff as soft as climbing gear type webbing all the way to firehose stiff... Works well up to about a 1/4" hole... Anything larger we burn through just like you did. Some of it takes a bit of effort to get through, but since it doesnt sever any threads it is less likely to fray or tear. At least starting at the hole.

That method is a bit out of the norm though, as I know Blackhawk and Safariland at least burn through. So it may be a fix for a nonexistent problem. For example the webbing on my Safariland drop-leg is very stiff. The holster is mounted to the webbing with three allen head bolts that go through a washer, the webbing, and directly into the holster. I've got 7 years and probably 250 entries on one holster with no issues...

To cut it, my old crew had a 3" hot knife in reverse kinda thing. It looked like a hinged papercutter blade in reverse and miniature. The bottom 'blade' is heated by current flowing through it. The top hinged portion is just a bar with a groove on it. Pull the webbing through, lay it on the blade and drop the bar. Made a nice clean cut on both sides, keeping what was left on the roll from fraying too... Works best if you can pull the two ends away simultaneously. For thinner webbing you could honestly just pull it down over the blade without having to use the cross bar.

I don't do much of the tactical/modern stuff with my knifemaking, stick more to the wood and leather... Guys like you already put out great knives I am content just to buy... I really like the look of your stuff and the webbing beltloop is great, giving some flex to that rigid gear.

I always have extra gear laying around it seems so if there's anything of that sort you need pics or measurements of, drop me a line.

-Eric

Thanks for the input Eric! I tried to make a hot-knife arrangement for cutting the webbing, but my temperature control was not great because I was heating with a propane torch... I was getting inconsistent results because of that.

I did some testing last night that basically involved hanging the belt loop off an I-beam in my shop and then trying to do a chin-up hanging onto the sheath. I couldn't get a good enough grip to get all my weight on it though unfortunately. The webbing, and the webbing attachment held up 100%, the kydex plate that it's attached to was flexing a bit much for my comfort though. I think I'll likely make the sub-plate a double thickness of kydex...

I was just searching for a way to do this ty very much for posting. I wonder if walmarts fabric section sells it. if not im have several old pool cue cases I can salvage some from lol

If you find another good source of stiff webbing please let us know!

Ultimate strength would probably result from putting one on each side. I know you like to do tests so I'm confident you'll determine the best configuration. Personally, I would order 1/4" flat aluminum washers from McMaster.com but I've heard they won't ship to Canada.

Bob

Yeah McMaster refuse to ship to Canada, which is a shame because they have a lot of useful stuff...
 
ok what about the military grade. they offer it in smaller sizes. i may try a sample prder to try out if you think it may work.

nm i see ther mil spec in smaller widths is just nylon and not for use in applications where it may get wet, as it stretches when wet.
i hadn't thought about that aspect of it.
 
ok what about the military grade. they offer it in smaller sizes. i may try a sample prder to try out if you think it may work.

nm i see ther mil spec in smaller widths is just nylon and not for use in applications where it may get wet, as it stretches when wet.
i hadn't thought about that aspect of it.

When they say 'not for use when wet' they really mean for continuous underwater service as I understand it. The webbing will stretch slightly and that can make things like harnesses expand... Someone else should jump in and confirm/refute that though. As I understand it that webbing should still be fine for a belt loop.

I tried a bunch of the different webbing from strapworks, none of it was nearly as stiff as their 'scuba' webbing, and therefore didn't work very well.
 
ok ty saved me from ordering and testing it out. im not sure where one could find it. ill keep looking tho.
I have a friend the makes dog collars he has some pretty stiff stuff ill see if he has something that may work if he does ill see where he gets it.
 
A-go, in your experimentation did you try adding anything chemically to the webbing to stiffen it up?

And I swear, this may be a figment of my imagination, but there is a thermoreactive webbing out there. Flexible in normal use but moldable with heat... Ever see such a thing? My dad was with with Eastman Chemical Co for 30+ years and would bring neat stuff home all the time. (Like their original CA glue recipe in mass quantities...) May have been something he toted in...
 
A-go, in your experimentation did you try adding anything chemically to the webbing to stiffen it up?

And I swear, this may be a figment of my imagination, but there is a thermoreactive webbing out there. Flexible in normal use but moldable with heat... Ever see such a thing? My dad was with with Eastman Chemical Co for 30+ years and would bring neat stuff home all the time. (Like their original CA glue recipe in mass quantities...) May have been something he toted in...

I didn't even realize such a thing was possible Eric! What kind of chemicals would you be looking at?
 
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