Webbing loops for kydex sheaths

I was just wondering if you had used any resins or the like. I have't done it personally, but have heard of people using everything from CA to fiberglass resin to either firm up or completely stiffen fabric. My assumtion is it would probably be too stiff amd might as well use molded ABS, kydex, or other firm material. Maybe if one wanted the panels of the webbing stiff but the curved bits flexible?
I dunno. Was just curious. You seem to have experimented a lot with that stuff...
 
I was just wondering if you had used any resins or the like. I have't done it personally, but have heard of people using everything from CA to fiberglass resin to either firm up or completely stiffen fabric. My assumtion is it would probably be too stiff amd might as well use molded ABS, kydex, or other firm material. Maybe if one wanted the panels of the webbing stiff but the curved bits flexible?
I dunno. Was just curious. You seem to have experimented a lot with that stuff...


Gotcha, yeah I hadn't really thought about doing that. I guess I assume that if I were to do that to the webbing then it would likely break down and become supple again over time...
 
Hey Guys,
I made some more belt loops the other day and I'm pretty happy with the process and results, so I though I'd share. Making a loop takes around 10 minutes, doing them in batches would speed it up.

First I cut a small rectangle of kydex and mark out the shape and where the holes will go. This will depend on what your sheaths look like:
eMMzdwFl.jpg


Then I drill the holes using a sharp brad-point drill bit:
Stl0Ohpl.jpg


Then the notch at the top is scored and snapped out. This makes room for the bulge around the front of the handle on my sheaths:
1ClPjcwl.jpg


Then the outer holes are fitted the #8-6 rivets. The rivets seem to make the holes sturdier and the whole plate stiffer, as well as adding a more finished look:
re2pGqkl.jpg


The plate is then shaped on the belt grinder with a 36 grit belt:
KSqxyiwl.jpg


A piece of webbing is then cut to the right length. In my case I want the loop to be 3-1/2" long so I cut the webbing a little more than double that:
HNmqCMyl.jpg


The webbing is then folded double, and the fold is hammered to give it shape:
osUKXhBl.jpg


The ends of the webbing are then cut at the same time so they're exactly equal:
bhEpYrbl.jpg


Now we need to melt the holes through the webbing so rivets can be fitted. To do this I use a woodworking awl that I heat with a torch, and a small template made from a scrap of tool steel:
G7FP0jLl.jpg


The template is clamped to the webbing with a spring clamp:
pdbRwtnl.jpg


The awl is heated with a torch:
cAVXiQjl.jpg


And then both the holes are burned through:
41ZP3KQl.jpg


The cut end of the webbing is then sealed with the flame from a cigaretter lighter:
CFaO8tRl.jpg


And then the whole thing is riveted together with #8-10 rivets:
FYAh1l1l.jpg


Then the loop is finished!
gATSXOZl.jpg


nGwcWHOl.jpg


Hope this helps someone!
-A
 
Aaron-

Thanks for posting this I've been struggling through this with my sheaths as well. I really like a drop attachment and I tried kydex clips but hated the stiffness. This is the webbing I've settled on. It's stiff and very tough.

http://www.seattlefabrics.com/webbing.html#Nylon_Dive_Belt_Webbing

I have been using a pair of sheet metal pliers to bend out a tab on my sheaths while hot which I then drill through and attach the webbing via rivets. I've had a couple of real hard use guys end up pulling the rivets through the webbing over time. I attribute this more to an imperfect hole due to the melting process then the webbing itself or the rivets. I'm now trying longer rivets with another small piece of kydex on the backside of the webbing so it creates a sandwich of sorts.

In looking at it I like your solution as in the end I think it may be cleaner and easier then what I've been doing in forming the "lip" attachment point.

If you're not adverse to it would you mind if tried some variations of your design on my next few sheaths?
 
Aaron-

Thanks for posting this I've been struggling through this with my sheaths as well. I really like a drop attachment and I tried kydex clips but hated the stiffness. This is the webbing I've settled on. It's stiff and very tough.

http://www.seattlefabrics.com/webbing.html#Nylon_Dive_Belt_Webbing

I have been using a pair of sheet metal pliers to bend out a tab on my sheaths while hot which I then drill through and attach the webbing via rivets. I've had a couple of real hard use guys end up pulling the rivets through the webbing over time. I attribute this more to an imperfect hole due to the melting process then the webbing itself or the rivets. I'm now trying longer rivets with another small piece of kydex on the backside of the webbing so it creates a sandwich of sorts.

In looking at it I like your solution as in the end I think it may be cleaner and easier then what I've been doing in forming the "lip" attachment point.

If you're not adverse to it would you mind if tried some variations of your design on my next few sheaths?

Thanks for the link to Seattle Fabrics! Some others in this thread have been searching for places to buy small quantities of scuba webbing, I bit the bullet and bought 50 yards from Lowy!

I have no objections at all to you doing something similar on your sheaths. I prefer it if people don't replicate the profile of my knives, but anything else is fair game I think!

Were you preparing the webbing/rivets similarly to how I am doing it on the sheaths where you had them pull through?
 
Thanks for the link to Seattle Fabrics! Some others in this thread have been searching for places to buy small quantities of scuba webbing, I bit the bullet and bought 50 yards from Lowy!

I have no objections at all to you doing something similar on your sheaths. I prefer it if people don't replicate the profile of my knives, but anything else is fair game I think!

Were you preparing the webbing/rivets similarly to how I am doing it on the sheaths where you had them pull through?

Thanks for the OK.

Yes. Instead of an awl I've been using an old phillips head screwdriver which I found to be the perfect size but that shouldn't really make a difference. A washer of some type would also work but I couldn't really find anything that I liked so I've been trying the extra piece of kydex. The only issue with that to this point is that even with longer kydex rivets it's a bit of a stretch. It's a good solid connection but it doesn't leave a real thick lip on the rivet. I've though about getting some of the thinner kydex in my next order just for this piece to help with that.

Could you provide the source and size of chicago screw that you're using?

Also to cut the webbing I had an old floor scraper blade replacement laying around (basically just a thin piece of hardened steel) that I use held in a pair of vice grips for a poor mans hot knife. I heat it with the torch and I've found that I can get a nice consistent sealed cut with it which saves me a step.
 
By the way the trick that I learned with cutting the webbing with my homemade hot knife was to pull on it as soon as I got through to the table. That keeps it from building up that thick edge you were talking about.
 
I need to get some sort of hot-knife setup I think. The cut/sealed ends of the webbing aren't as nice as I would like...
 
Just an idea; have you looked at hollow punches?
If heated they should cut and melt at the same time, should give a cleaner hole than just a heated rod/awl.
 
Just an idea; have you looked at hollow punches?
If heated they should cut and melt at the same time, should give a cleaner hole than just a heated rod/awl.

That's a good idea! I think the punches have an outer diameter larger than needed, but a piece of heated pipe with an OD of 1/4" would work well! I'll have to rig something like that up!
 
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