Welder recommendation

The Vulcan Omni-Pro 220 is a pretty good multi-process welder from Home Depot. It is sort of a knock-off of the Millermatic 220, but about 1/4 the price. Definitely not the same machine, but for home and hobby welding it does a good job. It is a versatile machine allowing most types of welding. Adding a spool gun for MIGing aluminum is nice.

If you only want TIG, the Harbor Freight dedicated TIG welders work fine for hobby use. Check out the TITANIUM TIG200.

If you already are not skilled at TIG, it takes some practice. You will need accessories like argon, regulators and flow valves, a foot pedal, as well as TIG electrodes and rods in assorted types.
 
Can anyone recommend a Tig welder for light use and value for money, please? When looking it's a minefield and generally when I buy something I usually find a better product after. Basically, it would be useful for re-welding broken band saw blades that break on the weld and general light gauge. Any recommendations will be appreciated.
One of the very few things I know a bit about is welding. You are welcome to contact me at 360.305.6225. I have 20 years in the trade as a welder, instructor and inspector. I won't tell you what to buy but I can break down what they do and what to look for in your budget range.

If you are not welding in a pro setting you don't need to get a pro welder. You just need to take really good care of a cheaper machine. If you have the budget i would tell you to get a multi process inverter that does tig, stick and mig and will plug in to 120 or 240. Something like the ESAB Rebel line. If you get a tig welder you can weld anything but its slow and expensive. AC to weld aluminum adds a lot to the cost and its one more thing to break if you don't need it. I would recommend getting something with enough power that you can run 1/8" stick. Call it a 120 amp duty cycle high enough to run a few rods.
 
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The advice I was given recently was, "Get something for which parts are readily available." The three names given were Miller, Chicago Electric, and CK Worldwide. My buddy is looking at a unit by Everlast. I follow Yeswelder on IG. Those two you buy ala cart. I think I am going to look at the CK before anything else.

One thing to ask about a multi-process unit is whether it will do the TIG start where you don't have to physically strike the arc - is that "high frequency"?

HF told me that if their welder breaks it goes out for repair and will take weeks. Make of that what you will.

Good thread. I gave away a Millermatic MIG when I thought I was done forever. Now I want to try TIG before I croak. Hopefully make a selection before this year is out.
 
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The advice I was given recently was, "Get something for which parts are readily available." The three names given were Miller, Chicago Electric, and CK Worldwide. My buddy is looking at a unit by Everlast. I follow Yeswelder on IG. Those two you buy ala cart. I think I am going to look at the CK before anything else.

One thing to ask about a multi-process unit is whether it will do the TIG start where you don't have to physically strike the arc - is that "high frequency"?

HF told me that if their welder breaks it goes out for repair and will take weeks. Make of that what you will.

Good thread. I gave away a Millermatic MIG when I thought I was done forever. Now I want to try TIG before I croak. Hopefully make a selection before this year is out.
Lincoln, Miller and ESAB are the 3 industrial grade brands in the United States. The price and quality go in about that order. Getting a welder fixed is hard to do and expensive. The big reason to get them is that they are heavy duty and probably won't break when used in the field. I like to recommend ESAB. It's a pro welder and can be very good for the price. They are more if a European style though and the controls can take more study to use. The brands do make hobby use models and they are not the same. Don't get one. There are the off brands. Many are actually repackaged ESAB's and can give you a lit of function for the price. Unless you are going to put one on a truck and hit the field thats what i would get unless I got another ESAB. If I was opening a shop I would probably get a Lincoln and a high end one at that. I would probably get one of their really high end MIGs and a ESAB HeliArc. The high frequency start is a nice option and you can save a lot of money if you don't need to weld aluminum. If you need to do aluminum then you want high frequency pulse. It drops the power level you need and is a really nice option for welding thin steel especially stainless as well.

Unless Chicago Electric has got a lot better they used to be low quality and not serious. If you want to show what you are looking at or give a budget I could give better answers. Inverters have gotten a lot cheaper than they used to be and you can get some really nice welders fir a good price now. Dont drop them but they have some high end functionality that used to cost thousands.
 
Lincoln, Miller and ESAB are the 3 industrial grade brands in the United States. The price and quality go in about that order. Getting a welder fixed is hard to do and expensive. The big reason to get them is that they are heavy duty and probably won't break when used in the field. I like to recommend ESAB. It's a pro welder and can be very good for the price. They are more if a European style though and the controls can take more study to use. The brands do make hobby use models and they are not the same. Don't get one. There are the off brands. Many are actually repackaged ESAB's and can give you a lit of function for the price. Unless you are going to put one on a truck and hit the field thats what i would get unless I got another ESAB. If I was opening a shop I would probably get a Lincoln and a high end one at that. I would probably get one of their really high end MIGs and a ESAB HeliArc. The high frequency start is a nice option and you can save a lot of money if you don't need to weld aluminum. If you need to do aluminum then you want high frequency pulse. It drops the power level you need and is a really nice option for welding thin steel especially stainless as well.

Unless Chicago Electric has got a lot better they used to be low quality and not serious. If you want to show what you are looking at or give a budget I could give better answers. Inverters have gotten a lot cheaper than they used to be and you can get some really nice welders fir a good price now. Dont drop them but they have some high end functionality that used to cost thousands.
Thank you for the info. It's appreciated as I am unsure what i will end up doing. I screwed up when I said Chicago Electric. I meant Lincoln. Sorry...
I will look into the ESAB. Thanks!

I should add that I am an old man playing around in the shop after a long layoff. I learned gas welding basics years ago and enjoy the technique. I was not that fond of MIG (Millermatic 115V/gas) because I had difficulty seeing; that said, I was good enough to make my press dies and stands and such and not look like one of the "bad" examples on Instagram. As mentioned, I gave it away when I thought I was toast. Then I had some changes and am able to putz in the shop.
I have no plans to do anything special welding beyond learning a bit of TIG, maybe welding up a couple crude "sculptures", who knows. It will be as a dilettante and just having fun. I tried getting in classes at the community college a number of times years past but always got denied because they had an abundance of younger people looking at it as a trade. Fair enough.
So now I have an itch I wish to scratch and a lack of info. I do know the same appeal of a rod in one hand and a puddler in the other makes TIG appeal to me the way gas does.
So, it's sort of bucket list. Pure hobbyist wish fulfillment. I do know I want TIG only, no-scratch start, aluminum, 240V. Beyond that I'm still learning and quite open to more info and advice. The other thing I'm gonna need is a good helmet. I have aged eyes. I think Speedglas is the answer there.
Well, there's my long and short of it, if you managed to read all this crap. Thanks!
 
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Unless Chicago Electric has got a lot better they used to be low quality and not serious. If you want to show what you are looking at or give a budget I could give better answers. Inverters have gotten a lot cheaper than they used to be and you can get some really nice welders fir a good price now. Dont drop them but they have some high end functionality that used to cost thousands.
Take this with a grain of salt of course, but I do believe that Chicago Electric has gotten better.... to an extent anyway. My first experience with them was an old 110VAC "MIG100" flux core wire feed, that was neither a "mig" welder or 100amps. lol. The wire was always hot whether you pulled the trigger or not, it only had 2 settings "too low" and "too high", and it was set up for AC electrode positive. It was perfect if you wanted to make 1000's of little spatter BBs and never actually weld anything. I paid my neighbor $40 for it and it was $40 too much. haha
(Side note: I did spend another $40 to $50 converting it to DCEN, and with some decent wire it actually made a really nice light duty welder, until I burned it up)

After burning that one up, I found a slightly used (but much newer) Chicago Electric MIG170 (220VAC, set up for DCEN flux core), and the difference is night and day. I would like to eventually try some actual MIG wire and some gas in it, but for occasional shop tasks, I get by just fine with flux core. I only paid about $100 or so for it, but I'd say it's easily worth the typical $230 price tag, and I'd have no problem buying another for what I use it for.
 
Back when welders were just big transformers, there was a difference between the Red/Blue welders and everyone else. With the digital circuitry and inverters, this gap is narrowed drastically. Here are the welders that I own. All are less than 2 years old. No problem getting parts for the Reboot or Everlast, I wouldn't bother with the Tooliom. Most welders today use standardized components, except for Red/Blue, the Euro Quick connect series 24 MIG gun, also known as Binzel type.

I own a Reboot TIG welder and it works quite well. I use it probably twice a month

I own a Tooliom MIG welder and it works really well. I only use it as a spare, because it doesn't accept my 12" spools of wire. Otherwise I would probably use it more.

My main MIG welder is an Everlast Power iMIG-230i. It is awesome, and fits a 12" spool. It welds as well as the Miller that I tested, at a fraction the price.
 
Back when welders were just big transformers, there was a difference between the Red/Blue welders and everyone else. With the digital circuitry and inverters, this gap is narrowed drastically. Here are the welders that I own. All are less than 2 years old. No problem getting parts for the Reboot or Everlast, I wouldn't bother with the Tooliom. Most welders today use standardized components, except for Red/Blue, the Euro Quick connect series 24 MIG gun, also known as Binzel type.

I own a Reboot TIG welder and it works quite well. I use it probably twice a month

I own a Tooliom MIG welder and it works really well. I only use it as a spare, because it doesn't accept my 12" spools of wire. Otherwise I would probably use it more.

My main MIG welder is an Everlast Power iMIG-230i. It is awesome, and fits a 12" spool. It welds as well as the Miller that I tested, at a fraction the price.
It took a long time for the technology of shielded circuits to mature and allow inverters to work. Now that it has it is mostly software. Its not all software though. For the really high end functions having some functions built into the machine. TIG is the easier one at least if we are talking DC TIG. When it comes to AC it can get very complex. With advanced AC TIG there can be a lot going on. Just to outline first what you get with DC it's pretty simple and how good it can be is basically based on the max pulse rate. Pulse rate by itself is a improvement. In a transformer welder you should think of the sine wave that you get with AC power. The trasformer does ita best to flip one side of it up and the wave cycle looks like a group of mmmmmmm's. That is going to give so.e flutter to the arc since the power isn't very smooth and there may be some starts and stops and you are relying on the plasma of the arc to conduct so you don't have problems restarting. Thats why AC needed the high frequency. What that was is a low amperage and high voltage current to run in the background to maintain arc plasma so that you don't loose the arc everytime the current switches direction. You use the same system to have easy starts without touching the electrode to the work. With inverters you can speed up the hertz rate and have a stiffer smoother arc. Where the software comes in is that it allows you to chop up the power output so that you can turn up the power to allow a larger gap since more power will raise the voltage and help jump that gap. You can then set the time and have a short time of high power followed by a lower power setting for overall much lower heat input. The high power will maintain the arc plasma and plasma being the 4th stage of matter is electrically charged and conducts the arc. This will give a smooth arc and also have a low heat input and help weld thin material and also help keep the heat down when welding reactive metals like titanium and stainless. With those the temperature needs to come down below where they react with air before the gas shield leaves the area. With stainless it doesn't conduct heat quickly and it has a hard time auto quenching and bringing that temperature down. This means you need very little heat input for your weld. With Stick and TIG you are using CC, or consistent current. This means that the machine keeps the current the same and adjust the voltage to keep the arc open and is the opposite of wirefeed processes. That means the further you hold the electrode away the more heat is put into the arc. This is the reason stainless can be hard to weld because with transformer machine's you need to have steady hands and good eyesight to keep the electrode as close as possible to keep the heat input as low as possible (as a side note, using as large of cup as possible will give more time for the puddle to cool before you loose gas coverage. Also turning up the gas flow will add some extra cooling although it can waste gas and if using standard cups and no gas lense it can suck in air if to high of gas flow is used.). Having a high pulse rate will help you to weld stainless with far less control. For instance my welder has a pulse rate of 400 pulses per second. For easy welding I might set it at 120v for 1/400th and 30 for 2-3/400ths. This give me lots of time for a slow travel speed and I don't have to worry about my arc length and when I add in the foot pedal I don't need much skill and I can weld whatever I want even when I am out of practice.

When you get into pulsed AC it becomes more complex. The reason to use AC is that Aluminum develops an oxide almost instantly. That rapid oxide protects it similarly to how chromium protects stainless steel. The difference is that aluminum oxide is very different than chromium oxide and has double the melting temperature of aluminum as well as being hard enough to use as an abrasive. That means it has to be removed or it will form a skin that will make a weld fail. Electron flow is from negative to positive and the positive side being bombarded with electrons will receive most of the heat. (Another side note: this direction is something to keep in mind. For instance steel doesn't arc well. It needs an oxide layer to to arc. This means if the arc direction like when using most stick electrodes and MIG where you are using electrode positive you have to use a gas mix or in some other way oxidize the surface arcing.) When using a transformer welder one of the big problems with using AC was that even though you could adjust some percentage of how much negative/ positive ratio used there is still a lot of heat still coming up and hitting the tungsten. For that reason the traditional technique was to melt the tungsten for a smooth rounded surface that could handle the heat. Tungsten needs to be heated to 11,000 F to arc. The TIG arc is cone shaped and the amount of power that is needed to heat a tungsten for a steady arc and given off of a large surface means that the arc is not concentrated in a small area. Aluminum conducts heat very quickly and when you heat a large area the technique needed was to dump heat in fast and move quickly and a foot pedal is needed since you need to spike power to start the puddle and then slowly lower the power as the work heats. Remember that aluminum has a melting temp of around 1,100 vs steels 2,600. With a good high speed pulse machine the pulse will run enough electrode positive to strip off the oxide layer and then switch over to electrode negative. The good ones can even allow you to turn off the high frequency background current. With aluminums low melting temperature this will allow you to use a very small amount of power. To weld 1/4" with a transformer you need about 220 amps. To weld 3/8" you need 5/64" tungsten and to preheat the work. With a good inverter I have welded 3/8" aluminum with a sharpened 1/16" tungsten. Thats a huge difference. My little welder is a small ESAB 220 amp and I can weld 1/4" within a full duty cycle. I was also able to weld 1" without preheat. The downside is that something is wrong with the AC side of my welder. Something wrong with the software or stress on a fragile component and your welder stops working and you have to replace boards.

Maybe this is the information you need to know to be able to pick out a welder. Since you are getting electronics you can get an off brand and get an amazing amount of performance. At the same time you pay the price for getting hardened and durable equipment when you get a pro brand. For top end stuff like $17k Lincoln welders you actually get hardware as well that works with the electronics. You also get some extra features where it senses the power that is coming through and adjust whats going on and how runny the puddle is getting and then keeps the puddle from getting to runny. You can probably buy two or three of brand units for the price of a pro brand. If you add in warranties you will have the best deal unless you have a crew loosing money when one breaks.
 
The advice I was given recently was, "Get something for which parts are readily available." The three names given were Miller, Chicago Electric, and CK Worldwide. My buddy is looking at a unit by Everlast. I follow Yeswelder on IG. Those two you buy ala cart. I think I am going to look at the CK before anything else.

One thing to ask about a multi-process unit is whether it will do the TIG start where you don't have to physically strike the arc - is that "high frequency"?

HF told me that if their welder breaks it goes out for repair and will take weeks. Make of that what you will.

Good thread. I gave away a Millermatic MIG when I thought I was done forever. Now I want to try TIG before I croak. Hopefully make a selection before this year is out.

I absolutely would stay away from green and black.
Everlast and Longevity

They are subs of the same company and people.

They probably have more colours and name brands now.


This is all from old discussions on welding forums.

You will not find that info now as they have created sponsored memberships and have control of deleting posts.

They have systemically and aggressively edited and deleted posts to create positive vs negative comments.

They have held customers hostage on warranty, only offering help if posts are first deleted.

They started by pre-selling almost all of the inventory.
They shipped all the welders, direct from china, no testing, no quality control.
But they had large failure rate.

A very high dead out of the box failure rate.

So they started playing tricks.

Troubleshooting over the phone, they might send you a board to install.
You pay shipping.

That doesn't work, send it back they will send you another, you pay shipping both ways, repeat

That doesn't work, you return your entire welder, they send you another entire welder.
You pay shipping both ways. repeat

Every attempt to contact is a failure, no phones answered or returned. Emails take a week to reply with multiple back and forths.

At least one person experienced 3 dead on arrival welders, one after the other.
He paid shipping and return shipping each way, each time. 6x shipping costs.

They had no working welders to replace the failures with.
They had no working cash to give refunds.

The only solution was to wait for the next shipment on a slow boat from china.
All units had to sell to afford the next batch.

All the back and forth email delays, all the failed welder games...it was all a stall to string out the transaction beyond the credit card refund time.



The next shipment of welders from china was "new and improved"
photos did show differences in design, maybe from different vendors.

The next shipment after that was again new and improved

That's the trend, new design, new vendor, no tech specs, no drawings, no schematics that you would need to do a proper repair or modification.
No experience troubleshooting, no parts inventory.

Certain power transistors would fail, maybe spec'ed correctly, but corruption and cost cutting at every step, you know how that is.

Accessories, mig guns, connectors were all DIN metric, or the chinese version of that.
You couldn't swap out a new gun without major surgery to switch it all to the American standard

The welders had electrical safety certification stickers.
They were found to be fraudulent stickers and UNcertified.
Insulation is cheaper than copper. Thin copper all around. Weak components and poor design all around.

Packaging insufficient to protect the product shipped individually to each customer.
connections and connectors broken in shipping.


People shared their frustrations.
They were threatened to never get any satisfaction unless they removed their threads.

The companies purchased manufacturer forums and controlled, deleted, edited threads from a negative post to a positive post
Distributors were Russian/jewish first language, so grammar and spelling errors were obvious
Posts were pushed down with hundreds of new posts and stickied threads so they will never be read.

Most all of those threads are deleted.

There were many people that were left 6 months to a year, or more having paid, with no working welder.
Others paid shipping over and over, others paid parts prices and shipping over and over.
Whatever they had actually spent, they could have paid for a brand name, used or even new welder.

Amazon sales
Someone sold many many returned units on amazon - as is no returns
people hoped to get a deal and they all got burned
those failed units should have been destroyed to prevent resale.
who sold them, a scrap dealer, or the original distributor ?
I know what I think.

Shady bastards.
maybe now they have made enough money they can afford to be reputable ?
I can't afford to take that risk.

Good quality machines

Stay away from the multi process ones that have plasma cutters inside.
Apparently they have problems.

If you go red and blue, Lincoln and Miller, you get consistency, dealer network, a network of service and parts.
100 years of history.
I can get 50 year old welders repaired because there are parts and info available.

Others in that category
Hobart - now owned by miller

Yellow ESAB -Sweden origin in 1904 world wide sales.
South Carolina manufacturing plant
Yes if you have a local support dealer


If millermatic 211 mig welder for a small mig machine



Yes HF high frequency start, with a foot pedal, not a thumbwheel
Lift arc only means no HF start.
 
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1 12345678910 Thank you, sir! That was a lot of typing and I appreciate it. I've come to the conclusion I reached about MIGs - has to be available at a local welding store and have parts/service available. I do know the one time I had a problem with my Millermatic 115V MIG I called Miller and had the part in hand two days later. That's important to me.

Again, thanks! I learned a bunch of do's and don'ts with your post and will take them to heart.
 
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