Welding help needed for a quench tank

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
5,703
Last time I welded one with my mig (with gas) I could not get an absolute watertight seal, or oil-tight in this case. I remember somebody saying something about using a special type of rod and a stick welder instead. I priced a relatively simple tank at the local metal place where I buy some of my steel and they gave me a 275$ quote. :eek::(
I am thinking that I can do it myself, even if I need to buy a stick welder, and still have change leftover for lunch at McDonald's at least.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
I'm by no means an expert but I have pretty much always used 6011 rods and always heard that they are the best all-around for steel. That being said, there are all kinds of material specific rods out there though I've only used ones for bronze. What are you making the tank from?

It's a pretty basic calculator but this might help too. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calculators/
 
I spent 2-1/2 years welding barges on the river & we always use stick & jet rids w/ a stick welder try some 6010 or 6013 rods if you end up getting a stick machine. Good luck !
 
I am not sure how set you are on building a quench tank but i use a roaster pan that i bought from Wal Mart. It has a lid to keep out the bad stuff and you can plug it in during the cold months to heat your oil to the desired temp. I think I paid less than $40 for it.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I will look into stick welders and those rods. I'll be using mild steel for the tank, something like 1/8th wall for the tube and a thicker plate.
Mike, I am looking at something deeper than that, around 24" deep at least.
Mash, I will need an horizontal tank in the future for edge quenching so I'll keep that in mind, thanks.
 
Patrice - I'm useless on the welding but..... I have two quench tanks. Both are those pressurized 5 gal stainless steel soft drink canisters that I got from the dump for $4.50 each(scrap metal price). Just a thought.

-Peter
 
I think you want an excuse to buy a stick welder:) You should be able to mig it just fine. Do your best then fill it up with water, note where the leaks are. Empty, dry the tank and squirt some more weld on. Repeat until it is water tight. Mine looks like total crap but it holds liquid fine.
 
Patrice Lemée;11831497 said:
Thanks for the tips guys. I will look into stick welders and those rods. I'll be using mild steel for the tank, something like 1/8th wall for the tube and a thicker plate.
Click to expand...

6010, 11 or 13 all should definitely work for you though I am pretty sure that 6010 is a dc only electrode. Something to think about when you get a new machine. All of the most affordable ones that I know of are ac only.

ETA: IMO, an ac/dc machine is worth the extra cash. It will take all the specialty rods and in either of the dc modes tends to throw less sparks in my experience. Also with the positive or negative polarity it just seems easier to get nice clean welds. I learned on one and its what I would have if I hadn't been gifted an ac machine.
 
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Well of course any excuse to buy a new tool is a good one. ;)
But since I need other stuff before that for the shop I think I will look for used tanks like Peter said and if that doesn't work, give it a go with the mig.
I am taking notes about the stick rods though in case it doesn't work.

Thanks for your valuable help guys.
 
Mig is more than good, I work in a fab shop, and we make tanks/hoppers all the time. Mig works fine for us, Just get some scrap and practice.
 
The reason so many people like 6011 is because it penetrates so well (rust, slag, ect...). 6010 is used as more of a root pass rod. 6013 is more of a cap/pretty rod. I agree with the others that the mig would do fine, but it can be used as an excuse for a new machine (for your better half).
 
JMJones said:
I think you want an excuse to buy a stick welder:) You should be able to mig it just fine. Do your best then fill it up with water, note where the leaks are. Empty, dry the tank and squirt some more weld on. Repeat until it is water tight. Mine looks like total crap but it holds liquid fine.
Click to expand...

I think that this is the best course for you .


If your welder is big enough, material is clean and your settings are right it should work.

There is a pretty big learning curve to get stick right.

If you're using tube, you may also consider pouring an epoxy base in the bottom of the tube when you are done.

Before they made car gas tanks out of plastic, they used to rebuild steel gas tanks with steam clean, acid clean and plastic liner.
Get a price quote ?
they have diy kits too, but results will vary on how clean you can prep the inside.
(abrasive paper on a drill before you start ?)
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealers.html


I would use 7018, but I have lots of practice with it.
 
Large ammo cans work well also. I got a couple from my brotherinlaw. I'm sure he could send one, not sure if the economics work if you have to pay shipping, especially cross the border. I have a feeling that a ammo can might raise an eye brow!! There have lids that seal tight and must be like 16x16x8. They come in many sizes though.
I have seen your attention to detail, I bet you anything, you can weld one up if you tried.
 
Mig/Wirefeed welder will be just fine. Welded mine up with one and it is still going 15 years later. There are no stresses on the tank. It sounds like they are talking about welding up a certified fuel tank. I had a fab shop break the tank body into a U then welded ends on it. This way you can make it any size you want. Made mine 36"long by 4" wide by 6" deep. Then there is always the tube quench tank. Just take a 4-6" piece of pipe weld a base on a you are ready to go. Just quench vertical.
 
A used SCUBA tank? An out of date aluminum super80 dive tank would make a nice vessel.
 
I'm not sure what type of weld you are doing(inside/outside corner,butt, etc...) but prep is key. I would stick with the MIG as noted above. Make sure edges to be welded are well beveled and clean. Do a small hot root pass and then follow up with a wide filler pass; haven't had anything leak yet.
 
Don't know what MIG you have........ If you are using the flux-core wire on one of those 120V systems, you probably will be less than satisfied. If you are running at least a 220V unit and using say a 75/25 mix of gas, you should have no troubles.

I have been using a Lincoln SP-170T (220V) for years with 75/25 (CO2/Argon), and for simple carbon steels, it does everything I ask.

I will admit that I have no clue as to whether Canada's power sources are rated like the U.S., but hopefully you can get the idea.

Robert
 
I'm not a welder Patrice, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

If you do weld up a tank, think about making one like AC ^^^ talks about. What he didn't mention is that his long tank is mounted on the wall forge height with a hinge on the narrow end. It tucks away against the wall in 3 seconds when not in use with a metal lid. The area above and below can still be used as storage saving valuable floor space and less risk of spilling if you don't slosh it.

The soda containers are corny kegs, Cornelius kegs. :) often available here cheap on CL.
 
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