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- Jun 15, 2006
- Messages
- 853
Get uncle Al or Bruce Bump. Don't waste your time with the guides usaknifemaker sales. They are inaccurate and do not have carbide faces.
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How about to old worn out flat files, bolted together? they'd be tougher than mild steel and way less expensive than carbide. Would have to grind them flat on two adjacent faces.
[edit] Actually, I would use the old files as face plates attached to a mild steel file guide. You need the rigidity of the thicker pieces.
How about to old worn out flat files, bolted together? they'd be tougher than mild steel and way less expensive than carbide. Would have to grind them flat on two adjacent faces.
[edit] Actually, I would use the old files as face plates attached to a mild steel file guide. You need the rigidity of the thicker pieces.
Drilling the bolt holes might be problematic. Maybe if you used mild steel and JB Welded the file to the face. You could leave the mild steel a bit longer than the file. On second thought, this file trick might leave marks on you knife that aren't easy to get out.
I couldn't let it go. So, I whipped up a new file guide last night (above design). I'll post some pics soon. Materials came super cheap.



First off, I know this thread is old... but the content seems to have been revived.
I own an Uncle Al carbide guide, and also have a large one with a couple extra features that I made. Before that I used the old style guide from Al that uses 2 large pieces of hardened A2 for the body. Before that, I did all the stuff mentioned in this thread--- clamping old planer knives onto a blade, mild steel that had to be reground all the time, even a guide made from ATS-34 that never worked right (because I didn't know what the hell I was doing when I made it!).
So with that in mind... my 2 cents is to buy one from Uncle Al at Riverside Machine or one from the Bruce Bump shop.
Folks always want to balk about the price of these, but if they priced out the steel, carbide strips, precision dowel pins, bolts, time to square and surface grind the steel body, mill out the cavity for the carbide, drill/ream/tap for the pins and bolts.... They'd realize the asking price is more than fair.... especially for a tool that will last longer than any of us will.![]()
And don't forget to factor in the years those two shops have spent making high quality work, that allows them to machine parts for a guide that actually comes together parallel/true time after time.
The idea of just clamping two hard objects on either side of the blade will work to an extent, but you're going to spend a lot of time fiddling with them to get them lined up/parallel. Or, if you don't get them lined up, then there isn't much point in having any sort of guide over just free-handing/eye-balling it. (Which is okay too! But this thread is about guides).
First off, I know this thread is old... but the content seems to have been revived.
I own an Uncle Al carbide guide, and also have a large one with a couple extra features that I made. Before that I used the old style guide from Al that uses 2 large pieces of hardened A2 for the body. Before that, I did all the stuff mentioned in this thread--- clamping old planer knives onto a blade, mild steel that had to be reground all the time, even a guide made from ATS-34 that never worked right (because I didn't know what the hell I was doing when I made it!).
So with that in mind... my 2 cents is to buy one from Uncle Al at Riverside Machine or one from the Bruce Bump shop.
Folks always want to balk about the price of these, but if they priced out the steel, carbide strips, precision dowel pins, bolts, time to square and surface grind the steel body, mill out the cavity for the carbide, drill/ream/tap for the pins and bolts.... They'd realize the asking price is more than fair.... especially for a tool that will last longer than any of us will.![]()
And don't forget to factor in the years those two shops have spent making high quality work, that allows them to machine parts for a guide that actually comes together parallel/true time after time.
The idea of just clamping two hard objects on either side of the blade will work to an extent, but you're going to spend a lot of time fiddling with them to get them lined up/parallel. Or, if you don't get them lined up, then there isn't much point in having any sort of guide over just free-handing/eye-balling it. (Which is okay too! But this thread is about guides).
Schleifstein- I started my post and got called away before finishing it... just want you to know that I wasn't directing my post at you.
Just for kicks, here's my guide from Uncle Al along with the one I made. I like to tinker too
View attachment 351578 View attachment 351579