Whacha Been Up To......

Gary W. Graley said:
Yep I remember one year at Ashokan seminar we had Larry Fuegen there and he gave a demo/lecture on leather working and showed how he ground down the heads of large spikes/nails to make his own stamping tools
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Use to sell Larry a lot of the wildrags Nichole made. He'd give em out to his customers at Christmas time. Been some years since we've had contact.

I'm finishing off a batch of knives right now. Here's the first two Horizontal sheaths done:

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Also did one for an old Old Timer:

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The customer told me that this knife had a lot of sentimental value to him and asked if I would clean it up some for him. It was covered in rust.

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Nichole has really been hammering out stock for the up coming Christmas season:

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And some for a 110 size folder:

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Gary W. Graley said:
Yep I remember one year at Ashokan seminar we had Larry Fuegen there and he gave a demo/lecture on leather working and showed how he ground down the heads of large spikes/nails to make his own stamping tools
G2
Click to expand...
why didn't I think of that? Good thing I didn't have to!
thanks Gary W. Graley Gary W. Graley
 
I'm going to buy a Barry King maul and I'm looking at the 32oz. Does anyone have any advice contrary to that weight for general tooling?
 
Wow that seems excessively heavy, just my opinion, the 24 oz should handle just about most jobs, you're not trying to forge, just tap stuff into wet leather ;)
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See this video, near the end he shows the big one you are talking about;


So if you are needing to punch out oblongs, maybe it would be something necessary to have?
 
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Thanks Gary, seeing that 32 oz in hand puts things in perspective. That looks like a tank.

I forgot to mention I'm going to get a tapered one, the lower angle for the hand seems beneficial but having never used a maul I'm not sure.
 
I've never used a tapered one, and I'd be hesitant to even try, but then, I'm pretty old fashioned ;)
The one I have is fairly heavy, I forget now it's weight, but in setting snaps it was far too heavy as I would inadvertently strike just a bit too hard and the posts would be smashed to one side. So often that I just hated using snaps! UNTIL I saw one youtube video stating to use a very light hammer and Very light strikes and rotate around the post as you strike. And now I look forward to using snaps! The hammer I use for that is a really really really old Tandy leather hammer head, super light weight and as I go to set the snaps I just use super light hits, about the weight of the hammer itself, it takes a lot longer but now the posts are curled over and the snaps are set perfectly straight. Some people will cut down the posts if the leather isn't very thick, but I would warn you to not do so as then you end up with less material that fastens the snap down, it just takes a little longer, but it works.
G2
 
Horsewright said:
Yep I use a very small ball pain hammer for snaps and rivets. Ya can get a better feel for it than with a maul. I use a 24 oz for tooling and I do have the largest that BK makes for punches. I call him Thor!
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I use my Italian Twist Press No. 3 for snaps, eyelets & rivets. It works great. I need to get a 24ish oz. flat faced maul for stamping and one of the big boys for my oblong punch. My black Tandy round maul is pretty good but too light for the punches, and not as good for stamping as a decent flat-faced maul. I just add to my tools every month. My van set me back a little. I had to put it in the shop for a new AC and stuff. That set me back about 2 grand. But I'll get there while doing my best with what I have until then.
 
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I figured that while I'm waiting to get my belt/disk grinder I would get a couple more sheaths ready. I am also working on not wasting so much leather. I cut this weakside OWB for my CPK UF a lot closer and won't have much waste. I also cut the belt slits early to make them easier to punch and I can use the belt slits to help keep the two pieces lined up when I wet-mold them in my press. But I definitely need to cut back on the waste.

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