What are you using for epoxy?????

Joined
Jun 20, 2007
Messages
1,361
Just yesterday I was perusing another knife forum site in my never ending quest for knowledge, when I came across a thread on epoxy. Well to my surprise they were downing one of my favorite epoxies, Devcon 2 ton epoxy! Now that I read the thread I have begin to doubt it. Afterall one thing none of us want is to have any kind of a failure on a knife.
I have built a few knives and have been using Devcon 2 Ton epoxy to help secure the handles. I usually use pins that have been peened over to However on occasion I have not been able to peen the pins or on even rarer occasions have had to depend entirely on the epoxy to hold the handle.
I was shocked to read that one of the so called problems was that and I quote, "prolonged exposure to water would cause the epoxy to let loose"! I was origionally turned on to Devcon 2 Ton Expoxy by and old carpenter who told me it was the best stuff he had ever seen. It could be tinted and sands down easily and is water proof!
To quote the old carpenter, "why hell I fixed my dentures over three or four years ago with and their in my mouth all day, and in a water soak all night 365and I aint never had them to let loose yet"!
Not that I am recommending Devcon for that purpose but, it tells me they don't know what they are talking about. The thread went on to say exposure to heat would cause a failure. Most epoxies will fail when expsosed to extreme heat. Under normal heat conditins, including leaving a knife on the dash of a truck with the windows rolled up in the dead of summer in "Florida" , Devcon has yet to fail me.
When I first started making knives I tried some Loctite Tysol. I think there was a number behind the name, but the number escapes my memory right now. The Loctite Tysol, failed on my first knife almost immediately, even though I had bought it off of a well known knife supply site. I assumed it had to be a porblem on my part but no matter how well I sanded and cleaned before applicaton it did not take and hold like the Devcon. I finally ended up throwing the rest of the Loctite away!
I had a knife that I worked on and did not like the wooden handle when finished. I finally decided to rehandle the knife and I literally had to split the handle to pieces to get it off and then sand down the metal and treat with acetome to get a new bonding surface. So to me there therioes have all been unproven. But I thought I would throw this subject open for discussion to the other members here.
So here is the questions I have.
What is your opinion of Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy?
Tell me what are you using for epoxy and why?
Tell me of your experiences with your favorite epoxy and why you swear by it or at it!
 
I think D2T is a great epoxy. I've had no problems from it... it's some strong stuff and definately waterproof. I use it a lot for coating fishing lures and it gives me a nice glass finish on them that holds up. I've also used it for other things where strength is needed and it performs well.
 
I have had expoxy failures and really was not sure why. I now have a process where I warm everything under a light and then assemble and place under the light overnight. I think there were two culprits temperature and moisture. This seem to have solved both.
 
I've gone through the glue wars thread and feel that the extent of the testing is enough to discourage me. Why take a chance at an inferior epoxy when so many others are available? I've seen Devcon hold up well, it held my house door on for three years, but I've also seen it fail. It fairs poorly in UV exposure as well as the heat and water problems. There are some epoxies that will hold up better to heat, JB weld is one of them.
 
I use Acra-Glas. I started useing it on my hidden tang knives at the recomendation of Greg Neely. Never had a failure with it. If it works don't fix it.
 
West System is not liekly to have problems with moisture because it is made for boatbuilding.:D
 

OK after reading my brains out I am a little more enlightened, confused as hell but enlightened!!!!!!! The tests make me worry now about my Devcon 2 Ton. Failure is not a option if it can be avoided!

Has anyone tried this stuff? http://popsupply.bizhosting.com/pop_s_epoxy.html

Is this what was recommended in the sumation of the test wars by someone. Has anyone got any imput on this product?http://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=EP04

What is the name of the golf shaft expoxy recommended in the the test wars and where do you get it, I may have missed it but all I saw was that they kept calling it golf shaft expoxy?
OK I went back and reread the test wars again and here is the product!
http://www.google.com/products?sour...a=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=1&ct=title

Any imput on any of these 3 products I mentioned in this post would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
What epoxy is the best that can be found easily? Reading that about devcon makes me wonder if I should be using something else.
 
I use alot of Pop's Epoxy mainly on slab and pinned handles. Seem's good no concerns yet. Pop's is a good man to deal with.
 
For real epoxy, the stuff car manufacturers use to bond body panels to cars can't be beat.

We use the Duramix 4050 stuff exclusively and it is a fast set, like 5-6 minute work time. I've used it on a couple of knives to fill in the space on a couple of hidden tang knives and had enough time to peen the tang over and it was all good. We use it to make some repairs to poly and fiberglass bumpers but we also use it for making repairs all around the shop and it will stick incredibly to anything except HDPE (milk jug plastic).

I used some to glue my friends bumper cover that was falling off, about 2 years ago and it is still holding, and he has used it at his work to repair leaky, corroded pipe fittings that are wet 100% of the time.

Cartridges require a special applicator gun.

http://3m.hillas.com/pc-13899-1095-3m-4240-duramix-plastic-repair-semi-rigid-04240-200-ml.aspx

http://3m.hillas.com/pc-13887-1095-...-repair-fast-set-04050-6-fl-oz-cartridge.aspx
 
I'm just a newbie, so take it for what it's worth. After reading that thread a few times, I think Acraglas might be the best all around choice for both stick tang and full tang knives, but you have to order it and it's not all that cheap. If I were a pro, I'd likely buy it.

Since I'm far from being a pro, the Golfsmith shafting epoxy seems relatively inexpensive compared to other hardware store epoxys, and if the black color does bother you it might be a good all around choice (assuming you have a store nearby, which I do.) I used it recently and it seemed to take a long time to dry but the black color didn't give me any issues.
 
I used devcon 2 ton for my first couple and stopped because another maker told me it was "better than lepage but only mediocre". I started using INdustrial Formulators G2 because it was formulated for oily woods. I was using a lot of thuya and cocobolo at the time. It has never failed me. Having said that, It takes 24 hours to cure right.

Lately, I have been trying Loctite 300 Depend. It dries (relatively) quickly - no mixing - and hasn't shown any problems yet. A couple weeks ago, at -38C the video camera fell off the windshield of my patrol truck (uses a standard rear view mirror button). I put it back with the loctite depend. This should be a real test, because its about a pound, bouncing around on the end of a stick from 40 below to hot as stink - bouncing along gravel roads and from time to time - experiencing some pretty significant g-forces. I've only used it on two knives so far.

Nathan Dallyn told me about it and I believe he's had good luck with it too.

Rob!
 
I used devcon 2 ton for my first couple and stopped because another maker told me it was "better than lepage but only mediocre". I started using INdustrial Formulators G2 because it was formulated for oily woods. I was using a lot of thuya and cocobolo at the time. It has never failed me. Having said that, It takes 24 hours to cure right.

Lately, I have been trying Loctite 300 Depend. It dries (relatively) quickly - no mixing - and hasn't shown any problems yet. A couple weeks ago, at -38C the video camera fell off the windshield of my patrol truck (uses a standard rear view mirror button). I put it back with the loctite depend. This should be a real test, because its about a pound, bouncing around on the end of a stick from 40 below to hot as stink - bouncing along gravel roads and from time to time - experiencing some pretty significant g-forces. I've only used it on two knives so far.

Nathan Dallyn told me about it and I believe he's had good luck with it too.

Rob!

Let us know how that Loctite 300 Depends does on the patrol car. Sounds like a good test subject.

Well I am seriously thinking of moving away from the Devcon 2 Ton as I don't need any failures if I can avoid them. I will say this though I always make glue holes in the blade to let glue flow from side to side. I also always drill a larger hole about 1/8 deep for these holes to line with in the handle matrial, I also take a small forstiner bit and follow the holes at the pins. That way there is a glue pocket there too. I feel this allows for more bite from handle material thru the knife and into the oppisite side of handle material.

I guess the question would be, if you are listening to this discussion tmickley and fitzo, what are you two using for epoxy these days? since you two done most of the testing! Also what are doing for prep to using these expoxies? Inquiring minds would like to know?
 
....
I guess the question would be, if you are listening to this discussion tmickley and fitzo, what are you two using for epoxy these days? since you two done most of the testing! Also what are doing for prep to using these expoxies? Inquiring minds would like to know?

I didn't do any of that work. It was Tracy Mickley and a chap who doesn't come around anymore named Steve Sando. Quite a nice job they did. I only supplied one of the adhesives (West Systems) and a couple comments.

That said, nowadays I use either Loctite Speedbonder 324 acrylic or K&G epoxy. I went to order 330Depend from Mickley and somehow ended up buying another bottle of 324 (brainfart). :o
I purchased some Golfworks (NOT Golfsmith) black shafting epoxy and was very disappointed that it wouldn't set up even in a test cup, regardless of whether it was mixed very accurately by weight or volume. I don't know quite what it's problem was...but, after two failures, it went in the garbage.
I embraced Tracy's conclusion that surface prep was the critical factor in adhesion, and purchased a little airbrush-type sandblaster to do tangs with silicon carbide 60-mesh grit.
 
i tried some of pops mid cure glue picked it up at a blade show, after the scales becoming loose on two in a row useing this product, while final shaping i quit useing it-attempted to contact him with a couple of emails- thinking maybe i got a defective batch never got a reply, i have used several diffrent epoxies and such, have never had a scale fail until useing this.,and havent since. bb
 
I'm surprised you had trouble getting ahold of Pop, I've never used his glue, but have had nothing but incredible service from him in all other purchases.
 
Quote PJ 234.....I'm just a newbie, so take it for what it's worth. After reading that thread a few times, I think Acraglas might be the best all around choice for both stick tang and full tang knives, but you have to order it and it's not all that cheap. If I were a pro, I'd likely buy it.

Actually if you order the quart size from Brownell's, I think it was about $54.00 and compare that to Devcon at $14.00 per 8oz. it cost about the same. get extra measureing cups.
 
Last edited:
I didn't do any of that work. It was Tracy Mickley and a chap who doesn't come around anymore named Steve Sando. Quite a nice job they did. I only supplied one of the adhesives (West Systems) and a couple comments.

That said, nowadays I use either Loctite Speedbonder 324 acrylic or K&G epoxy. I went to order 330Depend from Mickley and somehow ended up buying another bottle of 324 (brainfart). :o
I purchased some Golfworks (NOT Golfsmith) black shafting epoxy and was very disappointed that it wouldn't set up even in a test cup, regardless of whether it was mixed very accurately by weight or volume. I don't know quite what it's problem was...but, after two failures, it went in the garbage.
I embraced Tracy's conclusion that surface prep was the critical factor in adhesion, and purchased a little airbrush-type sandblaster to do tangs with silicon carbide 60-mesh grit.


fitzo :Sorry if I misread the tests, didn't mean to imply anything. Guess I didn't read as close as I thought! However my question to you is which of these epoxies on this page are you using from K&G and how does it mix up. The reason I ask the top one looks like to loose containers, I distinctly remember someone in the tests talking about trying something that had to be measured and mixed by weight and they didn't like the results.
http://www.knifeandgun.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=37

I did get the prep think and I may try the sand blasting thing. I have a small pencil blaster and have used the fine play sand from the hardware for cleaning sparkplugs back when my son still raced!

Mickley if your out there I'd still appreciate a shout out on your favorite(s) epoxy here, since you seem to be the resident expeert in this field. At least your testing has gotten my attention! This color is the feeling I am getting in my stomach about the knives I have built using Devcon 2 Ton!
 
Last edited:
I use the one at the top of the page in the two small jars. A thick, viscous liquid, it is a bit of a pain to work with. I weigh it separately into two small cups, then mix them together. It sets slowly and I leave it to set 24 hours. (I let all adhesives except CA's set at least overnight.)

I have no complaints about this epoxy. It has seemed to hold up well, though I have not done the aggressive testing like Mickley did. It is obviously not the easiest to use. And it is beige putty-colored and can thus need coloring with dye powders.

No matter which adhesive you mention, someone will have had success and someone failure. For me, it indicates the necessity for excellent surface prep and proper film thickness no matter which adhesive we choose. Most failures seem to happen on the metal side of the film.
 
Back
Top