What are you using for epoxy?????

For what it is worth by this beginner I have used Gorilla glue without any problems (or pins in some cases). The few that I have made have been thrown/dropped (my first knife used in a martial arts set and slipped out of buddies grip), lightly pounded, and used without any shifting or release. On the couple of hidden tang knives I have made I have used Loctite superglue and it has set up nearly immediately and not moved since- and these are kitchen knives that have seen daily use for a couple of years.

Rob!- when did you change names??
 
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OK I know I am fixing to wiz on someone's parade here!
I know Gorilla Glue done well in the tests, although I am not sure exactly why, but I hate the stuff!
What little I have tried of it for uses other than knives has been nonproductive. It's such a mess once activated it continues to bubble out for along time. It is nearly impossible to clean off the overage without sanding it off. I have tried wiping away with a rag using their recomendation for clean up and ended up having to get it so wet that is destroyed the integeraty of the glue. Sorry this MHO!
Look I usually clean the excess of the handle and expect in some cases to do some sanding but I don't want a glue that is so nasty to work with it destroyes everything I have worked so hard to create.
I also realize their is no glue that is the end all! Some are going to work well with wood and some with antler, and such!
Thanks for all the good info so far!
 
If you let the glue foam out and dry for 24 hours you can lift the foam with a razor blade or a sharp piece of brass.
 
I am still using Conap; about 15 years after ready Loveless' book. I have tried a bunch of different types and always return to Conap. It is incredibly easy to mix and I have never had a failure, nor have I ever had it fail to set.
 
Hello!

Surface prep is the most important part of a glue up. NOTHING comes before that. NOTHING.

Devcon 2 failed early and often. It was my personal adhesive of choice for several hundred knives before I tested it. I threw several brand new unopened packages away after my testing. YOUR testing and experience may vary.
The golf shafting epoxy was from Golfsmith and is sold by the quart and is very economical. You almost certainly won't use it all before you need to throw it away unless you kick out a lot of knives.

(disclaimer I sell 2 part epoxy stuff! I am NOT trying to sell here. I was asked. Believe what you want.)
I use a 2part private label (from BSI adhesives) that I have branded as my own. It is the same stuff as most of the other knife supply shops sell. I tend to use the slow cure most of the time as it has slightly better performance spec's. If I am in a hurry, I have no problem using the 5 minute stuff. I've no idea what good the 15 minute stuff is but some people think its just right. It is in my opinion identical to the golf shafting epoxy that was tested. If I didn't use it, I wouldn't sell it. I use the 2 part stuff for all wood and natural material.
For phenolics, I use Depend 330. I was using Speedbonder 324 but it goes off so damn fast it just made me nervous and when I used up the bottle I had, I switched to Depend 330. It goes off a minute or two slower. This stuff is anerobic curing meaning it will not cure where there is oxygen so it has to be a tight, non-porus surface for it to cure. It will cure with wood scales but it won't cure well at the seam so you don't have a flush finish with porus material on a full tang knife. I am very confident it would hold on metal bolsters with out pins very well if you didn't heat it too hot with grinding/shaping and polishing. It's unreal what it will hold.

You will not go wrong with Acraglass. It is exceptionally good. It just stinks to high hell or I'd use it more. K&G puts out good 2 part epoxy also. I just have never liked mixing/measuring by volume. I like to drizzle epoxy into two side by side puddles and call it good enough. I always tend to add just a little extra hardener, maybe 60/40 ratio. I have never had a soft glue up since doing that.

I'd sure encourage anyone to test and publish what you learn. We all win then.

edited to add: Golfsmith is good epoxy. I have a buddy that was in the golf club making business for 20 years. He used all of them over time, including Golfsmith and said by far the best was Conap shafting epoxy. I absolutely believe him (the bastard had a 0 handicap!) and if I was buying shafting epoxy I would search out Conap.
 
I used to use K&G 24 hour epoxy exclusively. It was good stuff.
I have now switched to System Three T-88 structural epoxy. It is super strong,and bonds most everything. 24 hour cure at room temp. Woodcraft supply carries it. Give some a try and I doubt you will use any other type again for gluing up handles.
Stacy
 
I use the Loctite E-120hp which also came out tops in the glue wars. Evidently a lot of people dislike it because you have to buy and use and applicator gun and nozzles. I just love the disposable mixing nozzles. Measuring, bah! Just squeeze and use.
 
Rob!- when did you change names??

:) Still here. We just wanted to support the forums, so we took out a dealer membership too. Marilyn's computer logs in as knifemaker.ca and mine lgs in as Rob! Could be either one of us at any time though. ;)

Rob!
 
I have used Devcon 2T for thirty years. Never had it fail. Never had a comeback. I gave my son a small knife with bone grip slabs secured with D2T and two pins, not peened, about 15 years ago. In August his mobile home was flooded and the knife was under water for four weeks. He just recently recovered it and the grips are still in place as they should be with no gaps showing, or any other problems regarding the slab attachment. What more could one ask for in dependability? There may be better epoxies, but in my experience, Devcon is good enough for me. Now, that said, I do drill numerous holes through my full tangs to allow the epoxy to form direct bridges between the slabs. I believe that to be a key role player in slab attachment no matter the brand of epoxy. Over the years I have had to replace the slabs on a few of my knives, for upgrading reasons, and although I was able to remove the pins with a hammer and punch, the grip slabs had to burned off, or ground off. I was unable to break the bond by beating on the grips.
 
LRB, Glad to hear you chime into this discussion. I highly respect your opinion in knife making as well as a few other subjects!!!!!
I have had about the same results with the Devcon 2T. I rehandled a knife that I literally had to beat the handle off and grind the shattered bits of wood from the knife.
I have not had any failures with Devcon 2t but have had multiple failures with Loctite Hysol 0151 despite following directions carefully. I made sure of this as after the first failure and it continued to give me problems.
That is when I turned t the Devcon 2T and have never looked back till recently when looking at a thread on another site. After the test wars I began to doubt it, (Devcon 2T). I have been giving alot of thought to the tests and the dishwasher test where it failed sticks in my mind. I am not doubting the hard work,expense or effort that went into the tests or the guys who preformed the tests. I do think the dishwasher failure may have been to the double wammy or perhaps I should say triple wammy, and maybe it should be called the quadrouple wammy. Let me explain my therory.
I know Devcon2T will hold up to considerable, and almost constant exposure moisture as I have proven it to my self in past uses. As for a knife I don't know too many that will expose the handle to constant moisture.
Devcon 2T has passed the heat test, as I eariler stated about leaving by accident a knife on the dash of a truck with the windows rolled up in the dead of summer! So heat did not casue the handles to let loose.
The exposure too the dishwasher covers not only two of those elements but two at the same time. Exposure to water and not only water but highly heated water. All though I am not for sure but, I suspect it was later subjected to the dry cycle of the dish washer! This is another element, not to be examined lightly. The super heated water of the dish washer must have penetrated the handle material as there are few surfaces that will not absorb at least some water. The dry cycle then attempts to bake this water back out. This is the very reason a good knife manufacturer who use wooden handles on their kitchen knives will tell you not to wash in a dishwasher. Of course we have all done it or the wife has. Take a look at the handle of those knives and you will see handle failure. Most are riveted and they are shrunk up and warped and the rivet is usually loose.
The dishwasher test, exposed the samples to all of these and then the impact test. I suspect very few of my knives will be exposed to all these conditions and the dropped or wacked with a hammer.
I already stated I felt, as well as did fitzo and others preperation is a big key to bond. Also like LRB I stated I create glue pockets in my handle slabs and blades which allow for bonding from side to side and then I also create a glue pocket at the pins, which allow for extra bond to the pins.
After all this discussion I still think I will continue to use the Devcon 2T becasue, it is readily available, it's cost is reasonable, and I don't belive my customers are going to subject a knife to all those extreme conditions at one time.
Now this is not intended to rain on any ones parade, or discount anyone else testing. I do appreciate all the info. After all I asked for it. I have had a large amount of varying opinions injected into this subject. I am sure this debate will go on long after I am dead and gone and each party will have their own views to this subject. I appreciate the views of others and respect their right to their opinions!
 
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