What are your favorite high-value low-cost knives?

in my humble opinion, this is the King!!!
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All your classic 420hc Buck Knives are great bangs for the "buck";
110, 112, to the 500 & 300 series, great value great basic folding knives like the one(s) your daddy or grand-daddy might have carried...
Even the classic basic fixed blades; 102, 105, 118, 119, 120 are great values.
 
It is obvious from the answers and discussion here that the word "value" is too broad a term and means different things to different people.
 
Aldebaran said:
It is obvious from the answers and discussion here that the word "value" is too broad a term and means different things to different people.
Click to expand...

He spelled out in the op exactly what he meant by "value" though:

"By this I mean, low-cost knives (define "low cost" however you want :p) that are great designs and great quality despite not using high-end materials, and they give you a lot of bang for the buck."
 
I think that in value designs it's really important to look at form factor over steel selection in most circumstances. If you're mostly cutting abrasive materials you might want a high carbide steel, but AUS-8, 420HC, and even 440A can be kept plenty sharp for most cutting tasks in things like plastic, wood, etc. it works fine. If you're sharpening-proficient then a pocket stone keeps you going when you do run into high abrasion cutting. One of my most-used knives is made of the Euro equivalent of 420J2 and it holds up well even on cardboard for fairly extended cutting sessions because I reground it ultra-thin. However, if I have to cut glass-reinforced tape the edge is just completely gone and a quick couple of swipes on a pocket stone are needed to restore the edge.
 
How could I forget the buck 110 ?

Mine was 38$, but many have gotten them on sale at Walmart around Christmas time for 25$.
 
Aldebaran said:
It is obvious from the answers and discussion here that the word "value" is too broad a term and means different things to different people.
Click to expand...
Like strategy9 said, OP spelled it out quite clearly.

For me, 'value' in a knife has nothing to do with whatever monetary worth it might hold as some 'investment', but that it's good quality, and what enjoyment and practical use I get out of it. Knives are really not a good investment, as far as amassing a collection in hopes of one day selling and retiring off of it.

Jim
 
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I think the issue being debated hinges on the definition of "value" vs "cost" RATIO.

If "A" costs one dollar, and "B" costs eight dollars, assuming they both do the same thing... "A" wins. (cost to value)
If "B" does it's intended purpose for twice as long... "A" still wins. (cost to value)

In fact "B" would have to out last "A" 800% to be equal. (cost to value)

Therefore it is the RATIO that matters here. not really composition or reputation. Everything in this world is based on numbers. Numbers do not lie nor do they have "opinions". (IMHOo_O)
 
Recently got the Ruike Hussar and it's usurped the title of best sub-$40 folder for me really quickly

Under $20, my favorite folder is the KA-BAR Dozier.
 
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Honestly I like aus-8, 8cr13mov and especially 440c when done right. These steels often get a bad rap because they appear on knives with no heat treat. Often times the knife is not even the steel marked.

In truth though all are capable steels when done properly. I've had aus8 knives that were a pleasure to own because of how easy they were to bring back to razor sharp. I love my Kershaw cqc7k and it has 8cr14mov and yet it gets so super sharp and holds it quite decently. (Although I suspect that alot of this has to do with the fact that it has an unusually narrow geometry fir a production knife.)

440c can be a great steel. Jay Fisher is a big proponent of 440c and I always was critical of it until I read his advocacy for it.
 
So the Sanrenmu 7010 might be the best high value low cost knife in 8cr13mov. What would be the best high value low cost knife in better steel? Let's say, at least D2.

A listing of high value low cost knives in different ranges of steel quality would be good. Steel is important to me too, but I like work beaters with easy sharpening as well.
 
Things get harder when it comes to steels
Actually most steels do the job for EDC, you don't need any super steel... that's just some marketing for geek like us :)

I have been very happy for some years with a Chinese buck copy with crap steel
The basic victorinox steel has need let me down
The 8Cr14MoV of my kershaw cqc4k has done well for me
The 154CM of my horseman with chisel grind was a great workhorse
The H1 of my Salt took 1 month of abuse without been touch by any sharpmaker

And what to say about my 8€ carbon steel opinel....

But as you get more jnives and test more steel you get habits and opinions
You get to like or dislike some steels
It is not about steel charts, it is about feeling and experience

At ZT I like m390 but not 204p
Most of the time I enjoy s30v more than s35v
S110v at spyderco is great for
At Benchmade i prefer s@0v over m390
Esee do a great 1095
VG10 wore KA great on the Delica
Over my experiences I don't enjo 440c and n690co
...

Don't get to focus on steel
Edge geometry is definitively more important
Consider steel if you have a specific use to adresse or if you have already built an experience

Steel will always be a compromise , design ergonomics and geometry will not

Everyone speaks about titanium, framelock, ball bearings, carbon fiber , flippers, FFG, deep carry, fency steels....

Low cost and high value is more about what you will use the.knife for
Unless you expose
Your knife to specific environments don't mind the material too much
 
strategy9 said:
He spelled out in the op exactly what he meant by "value" though:

"By this I mean, low-cost knives (define "low cost" however you want :p) that are great designs and great quality despite not using high-end materials, and they give you a lot of bang for the buck."
Click to expand...
He might have spelled it out, but others are obviously not understanding the words he wrote.
 
strategy9 said:
He spelled out in the op exactly what he meant by "value" though:

"By this I mean, low-cost knives (define "low cost" however you want :p) that are great designs and great quality despite not using high-end materials, and they give you a lot of bang for the buck."
Click to expand...
Even though there has been some discussion about what steel quality is required to constitute "high value", this pretty well reminds us what the op s intent was with this thread.
 
Rough Rider, and G***o. (didn't say it)

I recently bought a RR for 9 bucks on the Flea.
It's my regular carry knife now.
I LOVE IT!
Beefy, solid, and cuts what I need to cut.
There are four blades, and for 9 bucks you can snap three off, and still have a useful/attractive pocket knife.

I was surprised at it's size. Almost the same as a pack of cards.
cost/value? 100% paid in full

Heck. At 3 grand I find knives where that ratio is LONG GONE. 200 bucks, and value is a glimmer in the distance. 100.00?...Ummm, on the fence. Maybe if the blade was Plutonium enhanced, and could make coffee in the morning.
50.00? better be cool, and nice to look at. Value? Still on the fence

41yNJXimEBL.jpg


The other brand I like... I'll let you all find examples.
 
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davek14 said:
So the Sanrenmu 7010 might be the best high value low cost knife in 8cr13mov. What would be the best high value low cost knife in better steel? Let's say, at least D2.

A listing of high value low cost knives in different ranges of steel quality would be good. Steel is important to me too, but I like work beaters with easy sharpening as well.
Click to expand...
If you mention the Sanrenmu 7010 on this site, people take a fit. I like it though.

Best value D2 is the Zancudo/ Avispa/ Rat 1.

These knives were designed by the same guys and are probably made in the same factory in Taiwan. There's a story about this but probably not a good idea to bring that up here
 
At the top of the heap, Mora, Opinel, Rough Rider. These are the obvious choices. But also Marttiini, Hultafors, Filmam, Aitor, Antonini, Okapi, Marbles, Colt, Mercator. A lot of cutting there for $7-20 a knife.
 
Real Steel H6 series, Steel Will Cutjack comes in a few steels. I don't have the Cutjack but people have been raving about it.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I think that in value designs it's really important to look at form factor over steel selection in most circumstances. If you're mostly cutting abrasive materials you might want a high carbide steel, but AUS-8, 420HC, and even 440A can be kept plenty sharp for most cutting tasks in things like plastic, wood, etc. it works fine. If you're sharpening-proficient then a pocket stone keeps you going when you do run into high abrasion cutting. One of my most-used knives is made of the Euro equivalent of 420J2 and it holds up well even on cardboard for fairly extended cutting sessions because I reground it ultra-thin. However, if I have to cut glass-reinforced tape the edge is just completely gone and a quick couple of swipes on a pocket stone are needed to restore the edge.
Click to expand...

This is a really good point. There are performance differences among steels, but for most ordinary work I do, the steel is not that big a factor and many types of steels do just fine. Will have to sharpen some more often than others, but if it's a good design, good grind, good edge, etc., even a lower end steel can do quite well. I'm super impressed with the cheap 440a steel in my Big Rock Camp knife. It doesn't hold up like S35vn or M390, but wow, it works just fine for utility tasks and food prep, and is REALLY easy to sharpen to a hair popping edge.

A point worth adding here is, like many of my fellow Knife Knerds in this forum, I LIKE sharpening. It's doggone fun! So when somebody says: get this super duper mega fancy steel that is uber expensive because you'll never ever have to sharpen, my reaction is: Awwww c'mon, where's the the fun in THAT? :)
 
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