OK. Draw out the profile design of the knife you want to create on heavy paper. Cut it out. Take a flat piece of steel and glue the cut out onto the steel. Use a metal saw, hack saw, grinder to remove any steel not covered by the template you created. Use a scribe to mark the centers of the edges of the steel. Or a drill bit the same size as the thickness of your metal. Lay the steel and the drill bit down on something very flat. Hold the drill still and run the sides of your steel past the bit, pressed against it and the tip of the drill will give you a center line mark. Clamp a guide on the blank where you want your cutting edge to start and then use a chain saw file to cut your plunge cuts. come to about a nickel thickness on the edge, tapering to near the spine. Now go to your grinder and taper from the plunge cuts to the tip. Use your scribe lines to keep centered. You can use a contact wheel to get it close then a flat platen or a disk to true it up. leave a bit less than a nickel at the tip. Now with the edge up grind at about a 45 to start an edge. keep both sides even and use your scrip lines to keep it even. leave a nickel thickness. After this is done start grinding the sides. Look down from the top and use the gap you created by grinding the 45s as a guide. Work both sides. Use a push stick to hold pressure on the blade. The push stick should have a smallish tip and slide on the blade easily. Hold the stick still and pull the blade past it and the grinder, start at the filed plunge cuts and pull the blade till the tip is at the center of the belt, roll the handle end down and the tip up as you get to the curve to the point. Do both sides evenly. Learn to pull the knife past the belt in an smooth and even manner. One side pulled one way and the other the opposite. To move your flat toward the spine move the push stick down. The height of the push stick will control the flat as you move it towards the spine. When you have moved the grind to near the spine and the 45 you ground on to start is gone you are ready to move to a fine grit. Move to finer belts after ALL the marks from the coarser grits are removed. As you move to the finer grits you should have more flexible backed belts. adjust the grinder so the belt rides over the platen edge and you can true up your plunge cuts. You have to adjust the belt from one side to the other as you switch sides. True up the flats of the handle and raisco by holding them against the platen tip straight up. If you are using oil or water hardening steel you should end up with about a dime edge and be ready for the Heat treat when you finish with the 220 grit belt. If you are using an air hardening steel. go finer on the edge and to say a 400 grit belt. Do several of these with plain old steel until you have got it down. No video or book will replace time or experience on a grinder. Once you have it down use a piece of blade steel. After the heat treat start again with the 220 belt and the same methods until the blade is cleaned up again. Work your way up to 400 or 600 hundred grit and then clamp the handle down so the blade is flat. Wrap sand paper around a piece of flat bar and starting at the plunge pull the sand paper wrapped bar to the tip letting up on the pressure a bit as you near the tip. Do not pull the bar past the tip, but end the pull with the tip in the middle of the bar. Do this forever until each grit has removed the marks from the previous. Move the paper on the bar to have fresh paper as it wears. PRACTICE