What damages VG-10?

Too many people to quote them all.

1) Buck Started making 110's using 440C. They did so until the mid 70's.
2) Samhain is spot on. The reason that CRKT gets crap for using AUS4 is because the run the stuff soft. Buck runs 420HC at 58HRC. The hardness makes a SIGNIFICANT difference. Since 2000 they have also used a proprietary profile that greatly enhances the performance of the blade.

I do not find Buck 420HC to be crap steel anymore than I find 1095 to be crap steel. Yet in abrasion resistance they are pretty darn close.
 
Sorry.

VG10 is great stuff. Takes a very fine edge and holds it well.

I've had a couple of Delicas. They are great knives and everyone should have one. I've never managed to damage one of mine and I don't baby my knives.
 
VG10 gets very sharp. Edge-holding isn't up there with s90v or ZDP, but it's good stuff at a good price.

If you're worried about sharpening just get a guided system. I have a Lansky, but I should have picked up a DMT. Lansky works fine, just a little slow on reprofiling.
 
VG-10 is a good steel. I have a SOG Mini Vulcan with VG-10 and I just got a Spyderco Native in the mail with VG-10. I used my SOG at work for a week straight cutting .010 brass wire and I never needed to touch up the edge once. The SOG came super sharp and the Spyderco came even sharper which I didn't think possible :eek:. Will be wearing it for a couple of weeks and I have no worry it will hold up as well as the SOG did.
 
Ankerson said:
So what you are trying to say is all those people that owned and used Buck 110's for the past 50 years are wrong. :confused:

I have owned 4 myself over the years and I still have one in the attic someplace I think.
Click to expand...

So the fact that caveman owned and used stone knives for thousands years has to do with stone is better than iron?? :D Just want a good laugh, no offense here...
 
Man what's with all the hating going on here??? My delica rode around with me all day today and it worked just fine...I didn't cut anything but it was fun to play with... Iv used mine for probably 7ish years for every kind of task imaginable and I have yet to break it...it's got some play to it but I just can't find my minitorxes to fix it...I really really like vg 10 and then in close second is 154cm followed by aus 8 which I like because I just don't care hat abuse I put the edge through cause I can repair or resharpen it very quickly. My 2 cents
 
I did unplaned surgery with my delica today :(

Picture736.jpg


Note that there was no damage to the blade.
 
I sharpen mine VG10delica the traditional swedish way. It has a bevel that can be layed on the stone. This will not sharpen the edge at first because of the secondary bevel from factory. But it thins out after some cource frehand stone. It also gets a slight convex because its very hard to freestone a edge without this to happen. So After this I get a thin edge with low angle and a little convex edge. The bevel is now not shiny as new but with a cheramic stone for polishing the knife after the diamond stone its not scratchy eather. And its SHARP. I use mine in the farm, while hunting moose and fishing. Cutting lots of wood including making fires. The dilica with a thin edge is reasonable strong, wery sharp and if you sharpen as I decribed above by my experience says its wery easy to bring back to sharp again when its lost. It get a very used approach this way but that is what happens to knifes that get used hard.

Bosse
 
wongKI said:
Ok, though I'm a noob here I will say this.
1. How about you guys start a new thread about Buck, 420HC etc. I'm learning a lot, and I think other knifeknoobs will learn a lot too. I recently passed up a Kershaw Skyline for a Delica because of the steel. This info would be a lot more helpful OUTSIDE this thread, where we are discussing VG10.

2. Re:my personal experience with VG-10, this is what WILL and WILL NOT damage it.
Will NOT:
Dropping point first onto wooden floor from 2m.
Dropping point first onto concrete from ~1m. Did blunt the edge though.
Carving wood, making shavings etc.
Prying open biscuit and paint tins with the SPINE.

WILL:
Improper sharpening. (VERY improper, lol)
Dropping tipfirst onto hard surface from shoulder level.
Sharpening at a very thin angle, no secondary bevel or microbevel, and proceeding to carve hard wood.
Prying, especially with tip or edge.

All experience with a D4. I think mine has next to no resale value now.
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Here here. The original point one of the posters was trying to make is that as a harder steel, VG-10 won't be as "tough" when being abused as cheaper knife steels.

Harder steel: Holds an edge longer
Softer steel: Doesn't hold an edge as long, but is generally tougher.

...I'm sure someone out there will take issue with this, too.

In my experience, VG-10 holds up very well, even to somewhat abusive tasks. It's also a great at edge holding. Try it out, you'll like it.
 
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