What did I find? Who can tell me what this tool is for?

[Square_peg]

You couldn't apply leverage. That's why it would have to be batoned all the way through the wood. Hence you'd want more blade sticking out at the point for batoning. And I don't think you'd want that drop point on a tool that was to be batoned.

 

[rjdankert]

This is the closest I have found:

Bob

 

[300Six]

Wow rjdankert; shovel-type handle connections instead of a socket joint but otherwise just the ticket. That these are listed as "slashers" makes me wonder what machetes and billhooks are referred to.

 

[iwouldhurtafly]

I'm curious how a knife froe was used. If it were me I would want it to have a shorter handle and a longer blade. It seems like it would be batoned.

This whole thing has really gathered my interest, but I have been thinking the same thing, wondering how something like this would be used. The attachment/handle looks a lot like what you would see on large gouges, chisels, lathe tools, barking spuds etc. I wonder if this was used in the same manner. Maybe it was just used like how people baton knives to make splits or to just to hack through stuff.

 

[rjdankert]

. . .l makes me wonder what machetes and billhooks are referred to.

Here is one page of three for bill hooks:

They don't have a "machete" category.

Bob

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

The tool in the OP is NOT a slasher in my opinion. Slashers, while fairly robust in build, are not nearly so heavy or thick as this example.

 

[jblyttle]

The tool in the OP is NOT a slasher in my opinion. Slashers, while fairly robust in build, are not nearly so heavy or thick as this example.

Agreed, and it seems to me that the socket type connection would not work well for 90 degree impacts.

 

[jblyttle]

You couldn't apply leverage. That's why it would have to be batoned all the way through the wood. Hence you'd want more blade sticking out at the point for batoning. And I don't think you'd want that drop point on a tool that was to be batoned.

I'm with you.

 

[rjdankert]

I'm curious how a knife froe was used. If it were me I would want it to have a shorter handle and a longer blade. It seems like it would be batoned.

. . . My bigger question is how would you apply proper leverage to it.

You couldn't apply leverage. . .

I'm with you.

I'm confused on what is meant by "leverage" in this case and why it can't be applied with a knife froe. It seems to me that a knife froe could be started into a piece of wood as a regular froe is. Then just like the regular froe apply leverage to split the piece. The only difference is the orientation of the handle to the blade.

. . .and it seems to me that the socket type connection would not work well for 90 degree impacts.

Like a bush hook or shovel? Shovels, for example, have this same orientation and a socket for the handle. Jam the shovel blade into the ground, pull back on the handle (leverage), and dirt comes up.

Bob

 

[rjdankert]

The tool in the OP is NOT a slasher in my opinion. Slashers, while fairly robust in build, are not nearly so heavy or thick as this example.

Maybe not a slasher. I don't know what size slashers come in. I have yet to see an exact match and we're all just guessing here, so in my mind the OP tool is still a mystery.

Bob

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Slashers, typically, are about the thickness of a heavy duty machete. 1/8" thick or a little above if it's one with a forged-in taper from edge to spine. They're mostly used on fairly thin brambles and young woody growth as thick as a drinking straw and similar, so they don't have to be super heavy. Think of it as the Euro version of a ditch bank blade.

 

[Steve Tall]

I'm confused on what is meant by "leverage" in this case and why it can't be applied with a knife froe. It seems to me that a knife froe could be started into a piece of wood as a regular froe is. Then just like the regular froe apply leverage to split the piece. The only difference is the orientation of the handle to the blade.

Wouldn't you have to twist the handle of a "knife froe" to split the wood the same way a regular froe splits it? Resulting in a shorter "lever arm" and thus less leverage (not to mention smaller muscles being used)?

Another option with a "knife froe" could be to pry the handle in a sideways direction, but wouldn't this be less efficient than a regular froe, and tend to rotate the workpiece (unlike a regular froe)?

 

[jblyttle]

I have yet to see an exact match and we're all just guessing here, so in my mind the OP tool is still a mystery.

Bob

I agree. On one hand I would like to know definitively what it is, on the other hand am enjoying the VERY educated guessing and detective work going on here. There are some very knowledgeable people here, so it is somewhat fun to have even those people somewhat unsure. But eventually a confident ID would be good. As promised, I will post more and better pictures as soon as I can, especially now that this has gained a little interest.

 

[jblyttle]

Wouldn't you have to twist the handle of a "knife froe" to split the wood the same way a regular froe splits it? Resulting in a shorter "lever arm" and thus less leverage (not to mention smaller muscles being used)?

Another option with a "knife froe" could be to pry the handle in a sideways direction, but wouldn't this be less efficient than a regular froe, and tend to rotate the workpiece (unlike a regular froe)?

That's how I read it which makes me think that it would never be designed that way. I agree with Square_Peg in that any such design would make pounding all the way through a better choice that trying to twist a round handle. A regular froe with an 18" handle would have worlds more splitting leverage.

 

[rjdankert]

Wouldn't you have to twist the handle of a "knife froe . . ."

No

. . .Another option with a "knife froe" could be to pry the handle in a sideways direction. . .

That would be the only option I would try.

. . . but wouldn't this be less efficient than a regular froe, and tend to rotate the workpiece (unlike a regular froe)?

I never tried to make a point about efficiency.

I don't know how knife froes are used but it seems to me that whatever froe is used, the workpiece needs to be held. With a regular froe the workpiece is held by hand or a brace or whatever.

Bob

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Maybe use it in conjunction with a bar inserted into the split such as to pry in opposing directions?

 

[rjdankert]

That's how I read it which makes me think that it would never be designed that way. I agree with Square_Peg in that any such design would make pounding all the way through a better choice that trying to twist a round handle. A regular froe with an 18" handle would have worlds more splitting leverage.

Would you try to twist the handle on a regular froe to make the wood split? Of course not!

Bob

 

[rjdankert]

Maybe use it in conjunction with a bar inserted into the split such as to pry in opposing directions?

Why the bar? There is a "bar" (handle) already attached for leverage. It's just not going in the same direction as a regular froe, but the leverage is still available.

Bob

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Why the bar? There is a "bar" (handle) already attached for leverage. It's just not going in the same direction as a regular froe, but the leverage is still available.

Bob

It would keep the workpiece in place.

 

[rjdankert]

It would keep the workpiece in place.

What are you gonna fasten the bar to? Might as well just make a riving break. Or find a suitable tree crotch.

Bob