What Did You Sharpen Today?

Thanks. Sound break looks right. It definitely was chopping into something hard, that's for sure.
I also think it was a little too thin before, considering how much I took it back and still that edge was just barely an 1/8" or so.
 
Sound break looks right. It definitely was chopping into something hard, that's for sure.

While hemlock knots are famous for doing that a cedar knot can do the same thing. And I suppose a good many other woods could too, especially if the axe was cold when used.

Some people on this forum scoff at the need to warm an axe but all the old timers did it and wrote about it. And I've chipped two like that myself, both at slightly above freezing. Was it the knot or the cold or the combination? I can't be certain. But I warm my axe in cold weather now.
 
Mine, too. One of these days I need to make a video of the entire process. I think many people make it harder than it has to be.
I'm probably one of them... Haha. I just like doing it all with files. Plus, like i mentioned, it's my favorite part so i don't mind it taking awhile. I don't do any blacksmithing (yet) so it's the only way i really work with the steel. I picture my grandfather smithing and filing, all the old timers doing it and it's gratifying. Then i cheat and use a diamond stone but that doesn't make me feel bad.
 
While hemlock knots are famous for doing that a cedar knot can do the same thing. And I suppose a good many other woods could too, especially if the axe was cold when used.

Some people on this forum scoff at the need to warm an axe but all the old timers did it and wrote about it. And I've chipped two like that myself, both at slightly above freezing. Was it the knot or the cold or the combination? I can't be certain. But I warm my axe in cold weather now.
Do people really scoff at that!? That was one of the first things i learned and in cold temps the axe spends at least a couple minutes in my armpit before it sees any wood. And even then i swing gently to let friction warm it the rest of the way. That totally makes sense that they'd chip easy when cold. Especially relatively thin hardened steel... really surprises me anyone would discount the practice. Oh well they'll figure it out the hard way!
 
I have a thicker HARD hand forged double bit I use for cedar/frozen wood so's I won't damage my thinner-bitted axes. So far it hasn't gotten cold enough while chopping that I've had to warm my axe, however.
 
I have chipped a few times on knots. Very few times really big. Similar to the big chip on that Commander.

It wasnt that cold, so I attributed it to a pretty thin grind, a hard knot and a bit of bad luck.

I like to warm up my axes too, if I'm chopping when it's cold. At the least, I just make sure and do some easy knot free section first, especially before limbing. It's amazing how fast an axe gets very warm to the touch in use.

It's one of those things I figure the guys who used an axe for a living knew some things about what worked and what didn't.
 
You guys filed axes look very clawed after filing. Whereas mine looks frosty, like muleman's in post 399.? I use a Nickelson Black diamond, U.S. made single cut, 12". DM
 
Last edited:
You guys filed axes look very clawed after filing. Whereas mine looks frosty, like muleman's in post 399.? I use a Nickelson Black diamond, U.S. made single cut, 12". DM
When you say clawed do mean scratched? I use an 12" old nu-cut initially and it's very aggressive. Then i finish filing with a 10" black diamond. But i usually don't get ALL the scratches out so maybe that's why it still appears rough in photos.
Edit; i forgot to add that when i finish, my very last step, i do very light tight circles with my fine diamond stone. I don't know if others do that but it does create a swirled look.
 
Last edited:
The scratch pattern is going to look different based on the file type and size, and technique. I always use the longest, smoothest strokes I can manage. When I get the bevel to 20° one stroke cuts from edge to the back of the bevel over a few inches of edge width. I finish with a 10" smooth cut that I don't feel warrants further refining. So I don't use an abrasive on the whole bevel.

If you use a puck in circular motion you'll get those swirling marks. I only use my pucks at the edge to begin with. If you're practiced and careful with a belt sander you can put a high polish on the whole bevel with relative ease. In fact, you can do all of it with relative ease on a belt, but you miss out on the Zen part. And things can go south quick if you don't know what you're doing. If an edge is super blunt or malformed I'll whip it into general shape with a course belt, but I like the control and process of files like others here. That's my 2¢.

Occasionally I'll dress up something I fancy with a hand polished bevel and edge, but it's a rarity when it comes to axes. I do dote on my knife and tool blades, though.
 
This Commander had a bad day somewhere back down the line. Not sure where or how, but it's better now.
I used a belt grinder, watched my heat and cooled it as needed, then knocked the wire edge off with the fine side of a puck.
Back to a perfectly good working edge in less than 15 min.

Wont be much use until I handle it though!

GWkutS6.jpg


bpCxgyW.jpg


nWoSYaJ.jpg


guiHRqW.jpg


RiAY9vn.jpg


yM8yWB5.jpg


sJCR0Q7.jpg


fMeyAjF.jpg
Great save. At least you know that the bit is hard.
 
I filed the legitimus today. Haven't honed it yet but i thought I'd post pictures with just the filing done this time. The toe was a little worn so I removed a fair amount of steel of the bit. Before;
aSyRPuQ.jpg

A couple after i had the profile where i wanted it;
WU2wfkX.jpg
lT1Tn9O.jpg

New profile;
qSUjRjC.jpg

And finally almost ready to work!
zm8hbc3.jpg
1oyewiH.jpg

I have a nice piece of ultra dry white ash my father in law gave me and I'm going to hang this on it. I have it roughed out but there's still quite a bit of work to do to hang it. Tomorrow's fun. Thanks guys!
 
Back
Top