What do you like to use for cut protection?

Very thin 100% Kevlar gloves. So thin I sometimes double them up when grinding to help with heat.
 
Stacy's point about breaking freshly ground 90-degree edges is a good one.
I got my katana blade back from HT yesterday, adjusted the tang a little and started fitting a habaki.
Then I saw blood...impossible, nothing is sharp yet...I got about 10 small cuts on one hand before noticing and smoothing those edges.
 
Does anyone have any experience with the gator(?) skin things that fit over just the fingers?
 
I use the rhino finger skins sometimes when I remember to put them on. They’re pretty great imo.
 
mknife said:
I use paper tape, here in Italy we use it on painted or otherwise delicate surfaces. I use gloves only during the roughing phase. The blade is sharpened only after the sheath is finished.
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I love Italy. I spent a lot of time around Aviano and pordenone. Thanks for the advice but, you're telling me you have hours and hours into a finished handle and then take that over to a grinder and risk nicking it?
 
i got a pair of stainless chain mail gloves from my brother. he used them while working in a chicken plant. would protect you from cuts, but too clumsy for grinder work
 
Grouser1741 said:
I love Italy. I spent a lot of time around Aviano and pordenone. Thanks for the advice but, you're telling me you have hours and hours into a finished handle and then take that over to a grinder and risk nicking it?
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You are only putting the final edge on. If he is like me, he basically brings the blade to full finish, sharp... then just takes the edge off. At that point, just a bit of stone/belt work brings it back.

I think taping a sharp edge gives a false sense of security
 
i use leather finger cots on the thumb and index finger. They can be bought at Trugrit for a buck
 
Rick Marchand said:
I do not sharpen my knives until the very end(actually, I do... but then run it on a scotchbrite wheel to dull it)
When on the grinder, I use thin kevlar/lycra knit with smooth nitrile coating. I find the grippy stuff catches on the belt.

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These are what I use also but I have also been trying out more cut resistant work gloves. Mechanix impact resistant gloves (ORD CR5 model) are comfortable, grippy, and have a lot of padding but that numbs the feel a lot. I don't use them a ton and I use them a lot more when hammering on the underside of cars and things since I also seem to get into sharp rusty metal on my older cars.

Superior gloves MXHV Clutch outfield glove was really cheap on amazon at some point and I like these as lighterweight cut resistant work glove.

I have use the non-cut resistant nitrile dipped knit gloves that are inexpensive and everywhere. The knit won't stop much but the nitrile is thick enough to add a small amount of puncture and cut resistance and more importantly give you that fraction of a send to get your hand off a cutting/grinding surface is something grabs unexpectedly. Basic leather gloves have worked okay for this too but you can't feel much through them.
 
I also have the green self stick tape for my thumbs and forefingers, but lately I just buy a five pack of Harbor Freight leather gloves when they’re on sale and cut the thumbs and fingers off them as needed, using them on my thumbs and forefingers.
 
I wrap my joints with tape that the use in volleyball when grinding. it holds up well to a few fractions of a second when it touches the belt. other than that when cutting I wear gloves. also if after I sharpen there is more work to be done I wrap the blade in papper towel and ducktape.
 
Grouser1741 said:
I love Italy. I spent a lot of time around Aviano and pordenone. Thanks for the advice but, you're telling me you have hours and hours into a finished handle and then take that over to a grinder and risk nicking it?
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yes, on a knife there are hours and hours of work!
I assure you that I have never ruined any knife in the sharpening phase, with a thread often a few tenths of a millimeter (0,3-0,4 mm) used a few minutes to give the right sharpening. Sometimes with mirror-polished knives to prevent that the dust generated during sharpening make some scratch on the blade, I completely cover the knife with paper tape, when I finish sharpening I remove it.

Near Aviano and Pordenone, there is the city of Maniago. Maniago is one of the Italian cities in which knives are made, there are factories and several friends knifemakers. I live in Positano (southern Italy) on Amalfi coast, if one day you will pass near Naples or Sorrento, send me a message it will be a pleasure to have a coffee with you.
 
I wet grind mostly so I use the thickest nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight. They work great and do take the edge off of a short belt touch.

I use them for handles as well. After a few hours though your hands will be ready for a breather. Cheap Harbor Freight so just chuck them. Now if only they would do some sort of bulk ceramic belts in 60 grit!
 
mknife said:
yes, on a knife there are hours and hours of work!
I assure you that I have never ruined any knife in the sharpening phase, with a thread often a few tenths of a millimeter (0,3-0,4 mm) used a few minutes to give the right sharpening. Sometimes with mirror-polished knives to prevent that the dust generated during sharpening make some scratch on the blade, I completely cover the knife with paper tape, when I finish sharpening I remove it.

Near Aviano and Pordenone, there is the city of Maniago. Maniago is one of the Italian cities in which knives are made, there are factories and several friends knifemakers. I live in Positano (southern Italy) on Amalfi coast, if one day you will pass near Naples or Sorrento, send me a message it will be a pleasure to have a coffee with you.
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I believe I've been thru Maniago. I love that part of the country. If we ever get back to Italy it will be to the southern portion. So I may take you up on your offer. Thank you so much.
 
I prefer to use bare hands but knife making destroys my hands, mostly the grinding part.
I use as appropriate
1) nitrile gloves
2) ansell hyflex gloves
3) coban or similar self adhering wrap
 
MBB said:
Cut resistant nitrile medical gloves.
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I hope this is a joke. I use 4 mil nitril just to keep the dust off my hands a bit. No cut protection what-so-ever.
I wore thick leather while learning and ground through it and right through my skin. The best protection was me learning not to grind my fingers.
now cuts. I almost made my first blade last round without bleading, then cut a good part of the tip of my finger off trimming leather for the sheath.
My current knife, no blood yet, but sheath and sharpening still remain. We'll see......

Anyway, it gets better over time. Slow down, pay attention, and all the other great tips in this thread.
 
Brock Cutlery said:
I hope this is a joke. I use 4 mil nitril just to keep the dust off my hands a bit. No cut protection what-so-ever.
I wore thick leather while learning and ground through it and right through my skin. The best protection was me learning not to grind my fingers.
now cuts. I almost made my first blade last round without bleading, then cut a good part of the tip of my finger off trimming leather for the sheath.
My current knife, no blood yet, but sheath and sharpening still remain. We'll see......

Anyway, it gets better over time. Slow down, pay attention, and all the other great tips in this thread.
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I think the point is that the gloves do shear very easily. If they don't, you run the risk of them dragging your hand into what you're working on.
 
The risk of a glove "dragging the hand into something" is not a real issue on a grinder, it is a moving surface not a rotating device. The belt moves away from you as soon as it leaves the contact wheel or platen. If a work rest is not properly spaced, it can catch a glove and pull it between the belt and rest. I almost never use a work rest, and when I do, I have the spacing as close as possible without rubbing the belt.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The risk of a glove "dragging the hand into something" is not a real issue on a grinder, it is a moving surface not a rotating device. The belt moves away from you as soon as it leaves the contact wheel or platen. If a work rest is not properly spaced, it can catch a glove and pull it between the belt and rest. I almost never use a work rest, and when I do, I have the spacing as close as possible without rubbing the belt.
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This happened to me once, work rest space too large, blade got caught by the belt and went down, my fingers with it. Scared the shit out of me! Damage was minimal but my respect for the grinder went way up! Learned some lessons that day :)
 
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