What do you look for in a custom slipjoint-mark of quality?

B

Brian.Evans

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Sorry for the dumb title, I couldn't think of how to put it.

Basically, when you pick up a custom (particularly a slipjoint) what do you look for? Where do your eyes and fingers go first? Stuff like holding the knife to the light and seeing no gaps, blade centered, no lines on bolster to liner junction, bolster/cover junction clean and flush, flush in two/three positions. What else?

The reason I ask, I'm working on my third slipjoint. It's ready for heat treat, and I'm going to send it out on Monday. I'm really focusing on fit and finish on this knife, and I hope to post it here when it's done for you all to rip apart. I mean that in a good way; I want to be good at this, and "pats on the head" get people nowhere.

I hope you all can give me your opinion on what you consider to be a mark of quality in a custom slipjoint so that I can work them into this knife.

Edited to add: I'd like to hear from custom makers as well as collectors. Heck, I don't care who you are, if you have an opinion, share it.

Just by the way, pictures of the knife as it is now:

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I have about a dozen slipjoints....three sources come to mind for information about them that might help you. Don Hanson III, the maker, is an excellent resource from the making AND collecting standpoint. Gus Kalanzis(Bastid on the Forums) and Elliott(Blues) probably know more about collecting them, collectively, than anyone else that I know personally.

I like them to be a 6-8 on the opening scale...not quite fingernail breakers, but stout. Low choil, as the blade is meant to cut, and if you need more than a 1/4"-3/8" for your mark, it's probably too big. SHARP, bring that primary bevel down to about .015 or less. Nothing should rub if possible. I like engine turned and milled liners.

One thing that drives me nuts, and I was pointing out to a bunch of makers at Blade.....bevel or round the spines of the blades...these are using patterns and I use most of mine. If you can cut something with the spine of the blade or it leaves a deep impression in your finger when you bear down on it....not good. FWIW only Don Hanson and Ken Erickson of the slipjoint makers that I own did not require some beveling and polishing before I could use the knife comfortably.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
That looks very nice!

When I get a new knife, or am thinking about getting a new knife- this is what I'm looking at in order of importance for me:

1. Overall profile of the knife. You nailed this btw. The curves, proportions, and flow of the blade & handle in relation to each other

2. Fit and Finish. The big stuff. Blade play, snap, pull, smoothness, all around solid construction of the knife

3. Transition areas. You covered most of this in your post. I'm looking at all the areas where steel meets handle/backspring/bolsters/liners etc

4. The little attentions to detail that take a knife from good to great. Scratch pattern, plunge cuts crisp, gaps around shield?, proud pins?, flush joints? sharp transition to swedge, crisp lines not washed out.

Good luck with knife making, great pattern I can't wait to see it finished!
 
The fit looks good, at least at this stage, as does the blade to handle ratio. How thick is the blade, though? It's hard to get a sense of scale, but the blade thickness is the one thing that looks a bit off to me. Also, I like sunk joints, either completely or partially. They're not a must, but they're certainly nice.

And what steel did you use?
 
Thanks so far guys. I have been emailing Mr. Hanson back and forth a little, and he had been more than accommodating. I live about 110 miles from Tony Bose, and hopefully I can get with him and watch him work some time soon. He said get with him some time after Blade was over, but I have been working too much lately. Hopefully soon though.

I'd like to convince a couple makers and collectors to let me send them the knife to have them look over and give me feedback on.

JA, the stock is 3/32" A2. I think I might switch to the next size down, 5/64" when I order steel again. That's about 15 thousands thinner, which should make them super slicers.

I wanted to make this knife with sunk joints, but it looked silly, so I went ahead and took the liners down a bit.

What are all your opinions on half stops vs no half stops, and dovetailed bolsters?
 
medicevans said:
What are all your opinions on half stops vs no half stops, and dovetailed bolsters?
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1. I like half stops, they are just another little detail that adds to the total package.

2. Don't own any slippies with dovetailed bolsters...nothing wrong with them, but they might not be all that necessary, and really bust your chops.

I prefer stainless steel blades and would not purchase a slipjoint with A2, as my experience with the material is that it rusts when you look at it. MANY slipjoint collectors like patina on a blade, I am not one of them.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Are the grinds even on both sides? This applies to everything. Look at everything from the blade and secondary bevel down to the grain of the handle material.

Do all the pieces line up? Are their gaps or asymmetries between the spring(s), liners, bolsters, handles, or blade? Do the liners and spring look like one solid piece in all positions?

Is it mechanically precise? Does it have a tight feel in all positions - no wiggle, no gaps, comfortable but secure tension? It should also feel completely smooth with no jerky movement between any of the positions.
 
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In UK we're only allowed to carry slippies with a cutting edge less than 3" in public without reason - everything else needs a reason, or you're potentially in trouble.

I've gotten real pickie last year or so, and was delighted with the feel and fit of a Tony Bose I handled recently.

It is to do with that 'magic' of fit - that's always the first thing that gets me - the way the liners and the spine are virtually seemless.

Smoothness of opening/closing - how some makers attain that silkiness in the opening yet strength in the spring as well.

Finish - not just the seemless aspect, but how the materials work together..........even if it's plain G10/micarta, you can see the way a Reese Bose has such a perfect finish, esp the way the pivot pin fits so flawlessly.

Then, the other day it was a delight to meet a UK maker - as there are few and far between who make any kind of folder - who also had these abilities.

These are like pieces of pocket jewellery, utterly stunning...........ingenuity of pivot here..........gold studs instead of nailpick there.........
 
Interesting. I know it seems that everyone likes patina on slipjoints, but there are an AWFUL LOT of customs in stainless, especially CPM-154. I would really like to try it out on the next blades, but I'm having trouble finding a good supplier of precision ground stock. I don't have a surface grinder yet. Maybe one of these days, but until then I have to buy PG steel.

While I haven't had the same experience with A2 rusting quickly, I have had O1 rust horribly and quickly. Part of the reason I don't use it anymore. That and A2 is pretty dimensionally stable in HT, better performance than O1, and I just like it. :)

To be honest, I don't want to make custom knives. I want to make mid tech knives a la Bark River, et al. Maybe it's dumb thinking that way already, and Heaven knows I've been one of the first to jump on the "slow down and make knives then worry about selling them" advice bandwagon. Even more so, maybe it is folly to admit the desire amidst such esteemed company. Regardless, it remains a dream. First I make knives, then I sell them. ;) The dream is more like a 5 year plan......

Interesting about dovetail bolsters. I always assumed most people wanted to see that further complication on a custom. Thus, why I asked.

Very interesting discussion gentlemen. Please keep the comments coming.
 
Like STeven, I prefer half stops, but they're not a requirement. Dovetailed bolsters do nothing for me and I actively dislike pinched bolsters. On the other hand, threaded bolsters are okay, and I like fluted bolsters. If you start making multi-blade slip joints, then reeded liners are one of my very favorite details to see. Going down to 5/64" is a good idea, and I'd encourage you to keep using A2 or other carbon steels, at least for some of your knives. The only way I'd own a custom knife with stainless blades is if I wanted to keep it as a display piece - otherwise it will get used, and for using knives I absolutely prefer carbon steel.
 
Steven, thanks for the plug, I appreciate it!

Medic, you're on the right track. Half stops are popular, but not always necessary. Dovetail bolsters just look wrong on a traditional. Carbon steel is cool and all I use, but most will want stainless. ;)

What to look for in a slip joint? My best answer is to get you hands on a T.or R.Bose and study it real close.

Slip joints will be the most difficult knives to build, if built right.
 
What Don said. Study some Bose knives and I don't think I would go any thinner than 3/32 unless its on pen blades.
 
Great thread and thanks, I'm trying to learn more about Slipjoints.

I agree Don, even though I'm a fan of dovetail boosters for some knives they just don't look right on a tradition.
 
Kevin Jones said:
Great thread and thanks, I'm trying to learn more about Slipjoints.

I agree Don, even though I'm a fan of dovetail boosters for some knives they just don't look right on a tradition.
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They look fine on a 'modern' folder, or fixed blade, but so wrong on a traditional slipjoint or lockback.
 
Study some Bose knives. Got it. Have been, will do more. Hopefully I can go learn from the man himself. I may not be able to speak being next to the MAN, but I will write some questions down before I go so I can just hand him the paper. ;) Don, be prepared to get peppered with more questions. Maybe not today, but its probably going to happen.


So dovetail bolsters are out then.

Not that it has to do exactly with this thread, but I'm soliciting opinions on shadow vs barehead for this particular knife. Covers are going to be brown canvas micarta, unless I find something else better.

Very interesting talks gentlemen. Now, what about swedges? Yes, no, absolutely necessary or doesn't matter? Cut or drawn?

Specifically on this knife.....do I take a chance and do cut swedges with a long pull, drawn swedges with a nick, or just go simple with a nick sans swedges.
 
I mentioned R Bose in my earlier post too............when you pick up something like this, you know what a truly well made slippie is about...


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