What do you put on your Axe Head to protect it?

Oil on axe head and beeswaxed edge guard. Makes my edge guard pretty stiff. Keep your eyes posted for a beeswax tutorial.
 
I rub a mix of orange oil and beeswax into the haft, and rub the axhead with a stick of beeswax priot to using it.

Interesting you mention those two ingredients. I just found something called Howard's Feed-N-Wax that contains those two plus carnuba wax. I've been using it on my walking staffs. Have been very happy with it so far.
Found it at Home Depot.


Dave
 
Interesting you mention those two ingredients. I just found something called Howard's Feed-N-Wax that contains those two plus carnuba wax. I've been using it on my walking staffs. Have been very happy with it so far.
Found it at Home Depot.


Dave

thats the one! :thumbup: just put a real nice finish on a friends old pine cabinets with it :thumbup:
 
After helping with two science fair projects at different times involving coating bare pieces of metal with all manner of oils,greases, and waxes (including Ren. Wax) and then leaving them out in the rain and snow for a couple of weeks I tend to use WD40, petroleum jelly, and Break Free as my main rust protectors for my equipment. Bore Butter worked really well too if you are a black powder shooter and have some around. To the poster that said WD40 is just mineral oil I was wondering where you got that info? I have always heard WD40 was just a temporary coating too but it did better in the informal experiments we did out in the elements than the mineral oil and a lot of other things, at least for a couple of weeks.
 
Ren wax works goood on knives, ballistol, breakfree on guns for years with no rust., Kramers best antique improver seems to leave a good coating on the axes metal and wood. Has beeswax in it and puts a nice protective coating on everything. Do the same with old tools.
 
Wow - thanks for all the suggestions - THIS is why I post here. People care and they post up GOOD suggestions - stuff that works for them!


TF
 
I don't use anything. I just wipe the head dry with a cloth. It's been working so far. If I had to use a coating to protect my axes...I'd probably put a varnish coat over it. If I'm out in the field long enough that I really need to worry about protecting it I'm going to want something durable that I'm not going to have to reapply. Let's face it--how many of us go out in the woods with a bottle of oil or a tub of wax? :)
 
I use the rendered fat of suburban touri. . .:eek:


. . .er. . .:rolleyes:


Dunno, man, mineral oil, silicone cloth wipedown mostly.
 
wood silly;)

Agreed, I learned this from my grandpa who has had the same axe for decades. He has a chunk of wood in the barn that he drives the axe into(one handed so it doesn't stick to deep or split the wood) everytime he uses it. The rest of the head has a slight patina to it but the cutting edge stays sharp and clean.

David
 
Never had a major rust problem on an axe.
My father used to use my old cheapy no-name Cub Scout hatchet to bust up ice on the front step in the winter time.
That hatchet got left outside most of the year (for years) without any rust.
The handle however eventually got beat to h*ll and rotted.
(My father was never that big on tool maintenance,lol)
I rescued the head last year reprofiled it and rehandled it.
I tung-oiled the handle, accidentally some got on the head so i did the head as well (light coat),lol!
It purpose in life is to be a trunk-hatchet/general beater axe so i'll leave it as is.

However my Wetterlings/GB/Norlunds/S&N/etc will get coated with wd40 or 3-in-1-oil.

I've seen people spray paint axe-heads (and machetes) with BBQ paint!
Works but it gets ugly real fast once you start to use it, then they just spray it again,lol!
 
WD-40 and or Linseed oil. WD might not last long but it's easy, quick and cheap.:D
 
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