What do you stay away from when it comes to slipjoints?

silenthunterstudios

silenthunterstudios

Slipjoint Addict
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Feb 2, 2005
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What do you steer clear of when it comes to slip joints? I've begun to steer clear of Case's SS steel. At first it was because I thought the steel to be inferior to the others available. Now, I just prefer CV. However, I got rid of most of my Case knives with SS, before I came to the conclusion that SS isn't a bad steel. Also, of the Case patterns I'm interested in, not many are offered in CV :( .

I ask because I was going through my collection on Sunday, and pulled two knives for the trading block, my Tidioute white owl and Queen ACSB canoe, because they were both single spring knives, with blades on either end. I've never had a problem with a spring failing on a knife with a setup like this, but I just up and decided to unload them.

420HC is fine from Buck, but not from Queen or Case?

These are trivial matters to be sure. I have just gotten over my steel snobbery (1095/O1/A2 are what I use the most these days). Now this.

Edited to add, I posted a thread about which patterns you avoid, maybe a month or so ago. This thread is intended for the actual components of a knife that you stay away from. This thread is not meant for derision among the community, but an examination.
 
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I don't particularly like the acrylics and the like. Short of delrin, I don't like the plasticy stuff. I do like the Micarta though.
 
The concensus on BFC (although not 100%) is that Buck's is better than Queen/S&M's is better than Tru-Sharp. I have found very little difference between the three, certainly not as much as the difference between any of them and a quality 440C like GEC uses. S&M's ATS34 and Queen's D2 are a definite step up from the 440C.

For me, ease of sharpening has little to do with my choices, since I have diamond hones in several grits. I prefer carbon steels, and Queen's D2 is the best one commonly available in a factory traditional. If you like stainless, the ATS34 takes and holds a great edge, too.

The fact is, any of these steels will do what you want them to do in a normal EDC situation. The work just isn't that demanding to need a "super" steel. I do have greater satisfaction in using the better steels, but it can be offset by using a particularly good pattern or blade combo in one of the lesser 420s.

My only "stay away from" criterion is size. I just don't care for small pocket knives. My SBJ is the only knife I ever carry that is under 3-3/8" closed, and I really prefer them to be at least 3-3/4 inches. I grew up using fixed blades, and I just like a larger knife.
 
There are a few things I avoid when it comes to slip joints.

1. Low end stainless steel. They might get the job done, but I want something better. I don't need ZDP-189 or anything of the sort, I'm content with 1095 or O1 and their ilk. Let's be honest, when companies like Case or Victorinox use 420HC they do it for purely business reasons. The steel is easy and cheaper to machine than most cutlery steels and remains nice and shiny (good for collectors and you don't have to worry about ignorami sending a knife back to the factory because of patina). They don't choose it because it's the best, or even one of the better choices for a blade steel.
2. Synthetic covers. Synthetic has its place, just not on my slip joints. I like 'em natural.
3. Sub-3" knives. Carl has a point when he says that we really don't need large bladed knives these days. The problem is that small blades are usually attached to proportionately small handles. I have a couple of smaller knives and I won't be getting any more. They never get carried because I don't find them all that comfortable to use. The sweet spot for me is in the 3.5" range. Enough handle to get a good hold of and still compact enough to carry effortlessly.

- Christian
 
I don't like knives that are hard to open, be it for a stiff spring or an uncomfortable nail nick...just doesn't make me feel good to carry a knife that I can't open easily.

I prefer carbon steel because I like seeing the gleam of a freshly honed edge, I don't know why it just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside seeing that edge sparkle in the sun. Not that I don't own or carry SS knives...I just prefer carbon steel.

I don't like knives with more than two blades...I like just pulling out my knife, opening the blade and cutting what needs to be cut. I don't like standing there thinking about what blade I am going to use...then again if I ever decided to take up whittling or became a ranch hand my opinion might change...

I don't like brass on slipjoints, I prefer nickel silver or steel...just an aesthetics issue I guess.

I don't like thick knives, I much prefer a longer knife with a slimmer body, it fits my pocket better.

I guess that's about it for me...the majority of these are personal preferences, I've gone through more than a few knives to figure these things out, but now that I do, I am more prudent in my buying habits and I have a higher "it's a keeper" rate :D
 
confucius37 said:
I guess that's about it for me...the majority of these are personal preferences, I've gone through more than a few knives to figure these things out, but now that I do, I am more prudent in my buying habits and I have a higher "it's a keeper" rate :D
Click to expand...

Personal preferences, yes, what's good for the goose isn't necessarily good for the gander etc. For almost ten years, I've been attempting more prudency in my knife buying habits, but more than once I've jumped on something because it looked good.
 
The number one thing I look for is a good steel with a good heat treat. Next if those criteria are met I look at the main blade grinds. I don't need a scalpel but I do want nice full flat grinds that actually come down to a nice edge. If this is good I look the the profile of the edge and make sure there is no recurve from sloppy grinding or even intentional as in SOME customs. I avoid glued shields so much they are a deal breaker. I would prefer the larger the knife the larger the pivot pin. GEC does not seem to do this. I stick with under 4" closed knives for this reason (excluding the work knives with uprgraded pivot). I don't want blade play that can not be easily fixed. I don't like excessive gaps. I like cover pins that are slightly proud and mushroom over the cover material. The sanded flush jobs with very little material holding the covers have come loose on me. I like to support small local cutlers whenever possible. I want a good walk and talk with a moderate pull. No lame springs and no beartraps. I don't worry about spring position in half stop but I would like the springs to sit flush or low opened and closed. No proud blade tangs when open. No warped blades.

Aside from that I'm not picky.

Kevin
 
There are a few things I don't like in a slipjoint, but the only deal breaking issue is a poor build quality: if the knife doesn't have a very decent f&f I don't want it, no matter how cheap it is.
 
I don't really care for stainless steel and I don't like synthetic covers. Oh and can't be made in China, Taiwan, or Pakistan nothing like that. Pretty much just U.S. or German made.
 
Weight is a prime concern for me. If I am lugging this thing around with me all day to do (what for me is a minimum amount) some cutting, then weight is a concern. That being said, I echo Christian's thoughts about size and ergonomics.

I like the look of the GEC Sunfish and Whalers, but I will never buy one as I will not carry it. I have a few Peanuts and a Pemberton. I like them, and I do have small hands, but they are SMALL knives. I work in an office. I tend to open lots of boxes and blister packages. So, spey blades no me little good, but wharncliff blades, are excellent.

For me, the perfect knife would be a 3.5 inch slim wharncliff trapper.

I really like the #74 Saddle Trapper and want to like it more. But, like many GEC knives it is too chunky. Take the #66 frame with the California clip, match it with a wharncliff, and you have my perfect knife. Oh well...
 
It depends, I do not have any trouble with stainless steel on SAKs, but on a traditional folder I prefer carbon steel. In the same way I prefer natural materials on my traditional folders.
I guess I just enjoy the developing patina etc.
 
Not always was the case, but I avoid celluloid. I can handle the acrylics, but only have a couple of Case knives with the material. I do have several Bulldogs with cell, but they make me nervous (for them, not for me). I haven't bought any known cell since 2004. Also, I can't bring myself to buy a sunfish or elephant's toe.

Mystery stainless steel (or other for that matter always is a turn off); if you, knife manufacturer, aren't going to be proud enough of it to tell me what it is, then I'll not going to be proud enough of it to give you my money for it.

Also, if you are using cheap plastic covers, don't make up some exotic sounding trade name to hide the fact that it is cheap plastic (gum fuddy?? comes to mind).

Ed J
 
Small and/or misplaced nail nicks is a no go for me. I have a Queen trapper with deep dark stag that is nice. But, the nail nick is so shallow and high on the blade, I don't carry it. It's just not comfortable to open, it slips off my nail ver easily.
 
I tend to avoid highly asymmetrical patterns like the gunstock or toothpick, and also extra wide (sunfish, elephant's toe) and extra narrow (melon tester).

I think everyone stays away from leg knives...
 
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