What do you stay away from when it comes to slipjoints?

Weak soft springs I dislike a lot, but you usually only find out that fault after buying.

Special/limited edition knives fill me with suspicion.....;)

Canoe, Full Congress, Toothpick are patterns I've never taken to, probably wont either.

All this talk of Leg Knives (are they really a knife :D) Well, be thankful GEC didn't release any in that grotesque Glitter Gold acrylic! And I'm usually a fan of acrylic and certain synthetics, they CAN go really well on a Traditional, just depends how it's done-look at some of the rubbish stag you can find on knives, Traditional yes, appealing no. But that Glitter Gold.....it's like that horrible plastic wood they used to put in cars. Tasteless off the leash:eek:
 
There are a few things I try to stay away from, but a heavy spring in the major one.
 
The only thing I stay away from in a slipjoint,or any knife is a Pocket Clip!
 
Pretty much the only thing I avoid is celluloid. Avoid it like the plague...pretty much open to everything that fits my tastes otherwise.
 
willgoy said:
All this talk of Leg Knives (are they really a knife :D) Well, be thankful GEC didn't release any in that grotesque Glitter Gold acrylic! And I'm usually a fan of acrylic and certain synthetics, they CAN go really well on a Traditional, just depends how it's done-look at some of the rubbish stag you can find on knives, Traditional yes, appealing no. But that Glitter Gold.....it's like that horrible plastic wood they used to put in cars. Tasteless off the leash:eek:
Click to expand...

I've a Hogan in Glitter in my pocket as I type this. It doesn't work for most patterns, but somehow, on the long slim Hogan, it really works in my opinion. Wouldn't want it on anything else except maybe a 5" toothpick, but love it on this.
 
Brass pins and liners, glued shields, faux handle material, bad fit and finish (light thru springs, weak pull, handle material not meeting bolsters).

Those are reasons I dont have many slipjoints. I have to find midtech or customs to get over most of those criteria.
 
I avoid nailbreakers. If I can't get the knife open in an easy fashion then it's not for me.
 
I stay away from the ug-ly ones.


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These are all preferences, some of them strong, but each subject to being overridden by specific examples.

I don't care for and will initially avoid, barring other compelling factors:
-- folding knives over 3.5" or so
-- filework
-- smooshy/non-existent walk-and-talk
-- liner/cover gaps in new knives
-- micarta with topographical lines
-- more than two blades
-- fewer than two blades
-- snake-anything


~ P.
 
Whittlers, Copperheads, Jacks and Trapper variations comprise most of my favorites.

With the exception of one acrylic, all of my slips are bone. I just love the character and variation of it, combined with good "grippiness."

I generally prefer one or two blade designs, not so much a fan of 3 & 4 blade options, which I've never found much use for.

Spear, Wharncliffe and pen blades, pretty much in that order.

3.5" to 4" in overall length is perfection for a pocket slip, imo.

I prefer my springs on the tighter side.

Nickel silver hardware and carbon steel blades.

Made in the USA, or Solingen.

So what do I stay away from? Pretty much everything else.
 
tomsch said:
I avoid nailbreakers. If I can't get the knife open in an easy fashion then it's not for me.
Click to expand...

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

I gotta go with this. If I can't open it easy in the store, or at home, then it ain't getting better out in the woods or with cold and/or wet hands.

Carl.
 
I want my knives between 3-1/2 and 4"! Don't care for smaller knives (except CASE swayback jack)or really big knives. I don't like nail nicks or long pulls that are shallow or nail nicks and long pulls
that have been cut AFTER heat treat. It just doesn't look good!

Jason
 
Personally, I won't buy anything wih a wharncliffe blade. Unlike a lot of others, I do like a spey blade, long or short doesn't matter. Trapper or stockman, 3 1/2" or so and Queen or GEC sodbuster patterns work for me. And I'd never intentionally buy a two blade knife where one of the blades was a caplifter, there's just too many easy ways out there to open a bottle if I need to without wasting blade space.
 
I avoid knives with pinched bolsters, especially if the bolsters are round. I don't mind a slight bevel on a square bolster, but I dislike the "scooped out" look, for lack of a better term. The other things that I avoid are double pulls or a long pull that goes all the way through the tang. It can be made with fantastic materials and have flawless construction, but any of those things will make me instantly go ehhhhhh.:yawn:
 
I'm with you on double pulls, Danny. I think they're pointless and ruin the lines of the swedge.

I've passed up quite a few knives which I otherwise would have bought, on this point alone.
 
Anything with a double pull is a "showstopper" for me. A really "proud" sheepsfoot blades on a Stockman is the other deal breaker. Everything else is fair game ... even Leg folders. I've been shopping the various BF and GEC vendors, but just have not pulled the trigger yet on a "Leg". Seems like it could sit in my knife case next to my Ben Hogan.
 
No stainless steel for me. Maybe not a 100% deal breaker but is pretty close. I just love good ol carbon on traditionals. Another feature is small. I actually like small slip joints a lot but in practice they just don't work for my lifestyle. My knives are used a lot for food prep and little knives just do not excel for this. You can make them work but it is messy. Another thing I avoid is wharncliff blades. Again, they are just no good for food prep in my experience. Finally, I avoid multi blades knives. I just find the extra blade ruins the comfort of the knife. I find them horrible for longer jobs such as carving etc.
 
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