What do you think about BRADLY CUTLERY?

jimmy123 said:
You paying like 200 more for a sebenza...
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I know but if I'm going to pay $200 for a Benchmade Sebenza I might as well pay more just get the real deal. Or get the Skirmish which is at least a somewhat unique looking knife of the same materials, bigger and made by the same manufacturer for less $. I looks like a nice knife, just don't see why they want so much for. :)
 
I would assume they want that amount for the Bradley knives because they're recouping the cost of having BM make their knives for them. If they can get the customers to cover the cost of production, then they make more profit. If you're going to pay $200 for the Bradley, why not pay a bit less for the Buck/Mayo 172? I had a 630, and if it weren't for the fact that it was a special run knife for an organization I am a part of, I don't think I'd have bought one. They're nice, but they're also HUGE! I even like big knives, but it was just too big for me (which is ironic as I EDC a Strider GB). The 172 is just about perfect for me, though, and I can take it apart without compromising my warranty- which is my big niggling bit with BM. Though I understand the reason for the policy, I still maintain that the pricepoint for the higher-end BM's makes it highly unlikely that a non-knife person is going to buy one. JMHO.
 
I haven't handled any of the Alias models but the balisong is top notch. I'd like to see more balisong projects from them.
 
Personally, I'm a bit tired of the Bradley vs. Sebenza discussion.

Okay, Bradley made a SNAFU in its marketing in the comparison. Time to move on.

Bradley knives appear to be a good knife for the street price. I think that can be considered a fair statement.

When it comes to knives, choose by aesthetics and in the hand feel (my biggest consideration as this determines use). Consider materials (a lot of subjective stuff with a bit of fact thrown in).

Take the street price, +- some factor (say $50), and compare away.

I certainly would not consider the choice of a Bradley as a sin upon ones immortal soul, and in the end it IS a well made knife.
 
Aside from the theft of Spyderco's opening hole, there's no reason to buy an Alias over a Mini-Skirmish when you factor in cost vs. value.
 
eojk said:
Aside from the theft of Spyderco's opening hole, there's no reason to buy an Alias over a Mini-Skirmish when you factor in cost vs. value.
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Horsecrap!

The Mini-Skirmish has a major design flaw. Where does the clip go? When you disengage the frame lock, what stops the lock bar from going far out to the left? Nothing, because the pocket clip is in the wrong place.

Now look at the Alias. The clip is right where it is supposed to be. THAT is the reason to buy the Alias over the Mini-Skirmish.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
orthogonal1 said:
Personally, I'm a bit tired of the Bradley vs. Sebenza discussion.

Okay, Bradley made a SNAFU in its marketing in the comparison. Time to move on.

Bradley knives appear to be a good knife for the street price. I think that can be considered a fair statement.

When it comes to knives, choose by aesthetics and in the hand feel (my biggest consideration as this determines use). Consider materials (a lot of subjective stuff with a bit of fact thrown in).

Take the street price, +- some factor (say $50), and compare away.

I certainly would not consider the choice of a Bradley as a sin upon ones immortal soul, and in the end it IS a well made knife.
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Well said, and, I agree.
 
Yeah, that price is a little too hard to believe, for a new in box Sebenza, whether it be large or small.
 
Kohai999 said:
Horsecrap!

The Mini-Skirmish has a major design flaw. Where does the clip go? When you disengage the frame lock, what stops the lock bar from going far out to the left? Nothing, because the pocket clip is in the wrong place.

Now look at the Alias. The clip is right where it is supposed to be. THAT is the reason to buy the Alias over the Mini-Skirmish.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
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Steven,
I respectfully disagree! In most cases, the pocket clips on frame-locks that are meant to serve double-duty as "lock bar over-travel preventers" usually impede my hand/finger's ability to to wrap around the lock bar, re-inforcing the lock in the process. And isn't that one of the major advantages frame-locks are touted as having over liner-locks?

I would go as far as to say, if you can't unlock a frame-lock without causing over-travel and/or unspringing of the lock bar, you have no business using/owning a frame-lock to begin with.

All the best,
3G
 
As far as I'm concerned, Bradley is about as original and innovative as the Boker Armed Forces folder.
Boker:
112.jpg
Looks like a CRKT/Strider
Bradley:
17600ltd.jpg
Looks like a CRK/Strider


Regards,
3G
 
Beefangus,
Both were bought a couple of years ago, over on the green forum. Great group of guys over there and you can find REMARKABLE deals! One was a large and the other is a small. Both are regular Sebenzas.
 
3Guardsmen said:
Steven,
I respectfully disagree! In most cases, the pocket clips on frame-locks that are meant to serve double-duty as "lock bar over-travel preventers" usually impede my hand/finger's ability to to wrap around the lock bar, re-inforcing the lock in the process. And isn't that one of the major advantages frame-locks are touted as having over liner-locks?

I would go as far as to say, if you can't unlock a frame-lock without causing over-travel and/or unspringing of the lock bar, you have no business using/owning a frame-lock to begin with.

All the best,
3G
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Disagree you may, 3G, but....back at you.

It has always been my feeling, and confirmed by many that make frame locks, that two advantages are more strength and greater contact area of the lock to the tang as wear occurs.

Overtravel to the scale side on framelocks is a problem, especially on knives that do not use a clip to help minimize that overtravel. I am not advocating total clip pressure on the lockbar, but the Alias pocket clip orientation is about ideal IMNVHO, and my Mayo Dr. Death is set up the same way. The Hinderer LockBar Stablizer as used on Rick's knives, and Strider Knives is the best solution that I have seen to this problem, and makes the clip location, unimportant for that application. Darrel Ralph has also solved this problem, but I don't find his solution as elegant or aesthetically attractive.

I found with the Mini Skirmish that if I wrapped my fingers all the way around, and "reinforced" the lockbar as you have written, it almost bottomed out the lockbar, and made release slightly difficult. After about 3 weeks of this nonsense, I drilled and tapped the frame, and made a SS "cover", that blocked out the overtravel of the framelock bar. I ultimately sold the knife to a fellow Forumite looking for a good deal.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I have carried and like Sebenzas very much, I currently own two, 1 large Blackwood inlayed Classic, 1 regular small. I did not pay near full price for either knife.

I don't like the stonewashed finish on the blades, but that is personal preference.

I like the Bradley Alias, I was able to buy it at wholesale cost, thusly making it relatively inexpensive. It is decent, and of a well made build.

It is nowhere near a Sebenza. I cannot understand why there is almost 1/2" of space between the blade tip and the handle tip in closed position. This is what we refer to as "less than ideal blade-to-handle ratio".

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
"This is what we refer to as "less than ideal blade-to-handle ratio"."

Only if you believe a handle must be no longer than needed to cover the blade.

Me, I prefer a handle long enough to get my whole hand on. Better control and ability to apply full force with.

For example: I may be stuck with a mini blade due to laws and regulations, but I still want enough handle to fully control the blade in use.
 
orthogonal1 said:
"This is what we refer to as "less than ideal blade-to-handle ratio"."

Only if you believe a handle must be no longer than needed to cover the blade.
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The Benchmite is a good example. It is a 1.95" bladed automatic with about a 2 7/8" handle. Are you saying that you would like this knife to have a 4" handle? That seems.........not ideal.

I am saying that the Bradley Alias I should have a blade that is about 5/16" longer and that the thong hole should be repositioned to accomplish this without any compromise to performance. Both Sebenzas have excellent blade to handle ratio without the problems that you mentioned above. I personally don't care for the Umfaan or the Mnandi.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Well, look at the Dodo (a fave of mine as far as control goes).

1.75 inch blade with a 4.25 inch handle (depending on how you measure).

I am able to get full hand contact with the handle.

Look at you average 3 inch paring knife. The handles are usually in the 4-4.5 inch range. Why? Control, ease of use, etc.

Unless the goal is to pack as much blade in the smallest package possible, there is little reason for the approximate 1-1 ratio of blade to handle (minus hinge length). Of coarse, that is just opinion.

But consider: Many carry a shorter blade not from preference, but for legal reasons.

Sacrificing blade length is annoying enough, but that does not mean I have to sacrifice handle length.

NOTE: I apologize for taking the thread of topic.
 
The blade handle ratio is a matter of preference, determined largely by the size of our hands. I like some of my knives to have a more even blade/handle ratio for easier carrier (mini mojo perhaps, or the m16), and then, for harder working knives like my para and dodo, I like it to be disproportionate.

So I don't think there's a right or wrong answer for the ratio, I don't even really think it's preference. Just different hand sizes and knife uses.

I rather like the alias, but then, I don't really "get" the sebenza, so maybe my opinion is just uncultured.
 
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