what do you think of cryo treatment

If the edge is chipping during normal use, the blade has not been properly heat treated; too little temper time or an incorrect temperature. If the edge dulls easily it is not properly heat treated, not properly quenched or overheated after heat treat.
When I read these two statements together, they do not add up. I don't see how the edge can chip one time and then the edge goes dull on the next few cuts. I have never seen an edge that chipped, too little temper, and in the same knife have the edge wear and dull quickly, too soft an edge. I have only found one or the other, never both conditions in the same knife.
Maybe I am reading this wrong.
Whichever the condition, the knife was not made correctly. If I had sold you the knife, I would surely expect you to send it back to me, for a new knife that was made correctly.
Fred
 
what i mean by chipping is the micro chips or small flat spots on the edge it may be that i am being to critical of the edge but for what everyone says is a good steel it does not seem that great to me I am just looking to reduce the amount of chipping,rounding,flattening that occures on the edge. The edge does not go complety dull just looses the shaving edge
 
I am a forger and do not have experience with the 154, so I am a little out of my league.
I would say this, I edge test all the knives that I sell. I do this when the knife is ready to be shipped. Roll the edge on a brass rod. I expect it to roll as I push it along the edge and then return to normal. Test the tip by stabbing into mild steel. Run a finger nail along the tip. There should be no change to the tip. I do not want a knife to leave my shop that a customer will not be happy with.
Emerson should do the same as far as standing by there knives and wanting a happy customer. Contact them and tell them you are not pleased with there product.

Good luck to you, Fred
 
I have always wanted a custom knife built to my specs how do i go about doing this
 
There was an article in one of the Blade magazines about cryo treatment and results were quite positive. I wish I could remember where and which.!!
 
" science behind the process " that's the problem , there is some science and lots of hype !!! Proper heat treating of a complex steel involves many things and may include cryo. But cryo is not an 'ad-on' process but part of the HT.I won't go through the whole discussion again but I've seen many cases of cryo being pure BS !
 
TJ: Thanks for the kind words. Since I wrote that article I have learned a lot about cryo for 5160 and 52100. If you get a big increase in performance I have found that it is an indication of less than optimum forging, heat treating when working up the blade. When you do everyting right with these steels cryo will not show any significant benefit.


At this time I use it as a check on experimental blades only. If there is significant increase in performance I go back and change methods until there is no significant change after cryo.
 
Cryo treatment as part of the heat treat will transform retained austenite to martensite. It will increase the hardness but, I believe, the steel should be tempered down to the same hardness you would otherwise wish for that particular steel if cryo were not performed. The benefit should be viewed as a minimum of retained austenite as opposed to increased hardness, therefore the claim for less edge chip out. It takes a miracle worker to heat treat a steel and end up with 0 percent retained austenite. This is where cryo really shines.

I have noticed most benefit for high alloy steels.

rlinger
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thanks Ed, that's what i have been waiting to hear
 
thanks Ed, that's what i have been waiting to hear
:confused:

I thought your question was about a 154CM blade. You do realize that Ed's answer was relating to non stainless, oil hardening steels right?

Cryo does make a difference in air hardening steels - a difference for the better if done properly and at the time of heat treat.

I don't believe a subsequent cryo on your blade willl have any effect, but if it does, +300 is not an adequate temper for this steel. Un-tempered Martensite is not going to improve your egde failure problems.

Rob!
 
This is another one of those topics that come up, as if it had never been covered before, again and again very often. So often it is one of those that tend to burn seasoned posters out by typing the same explanations ad nauseum. I see the usual fine and leveled headed input here but, as always, have been just waiting to see some of those fervent believers in the process to pop in to let you know how fantastic this mystery cure all can really be, only to find out that these endorsements come almost universally by folks who... offer cryo services ,reducing all of their valuable input to little more than cheap advertising.

The folks who say that retained austenite is just the tip of the iceberg in the miracles that this process can provide will also quickly point out how virtually any object made from any material will incredibly increase in any desired property you may wish. Women’s stockings will no longer run, tennis rackets will make you a winner at Wimbledon, golf clubs will hit like Tiger Woods is holding them, Trombones will sound sweeter than angel’s song after having their slides chilled... any body with any sort of common sense and caveat emptor radar should have some flags going up at this point. Tell me you have a process that will convert 10-20% more retained austenite to martensite in steels that have a low Mf and I may decide I could use your service. Heck, tell me that there may be some reordering of the crystalline lattice and some accelerated precipitation of secondary carbides with a 10% improvement in strength properties, and I may still give it a shot just to see. But start barking about how Dr. McGillicutty's magical cryogenic life tonic elixir will sudden solve all of life problems as evident in some testimonials from true believers, and I am going to have to ask you to give me a break! I can swallow it as an added step in quenching, but to many it seems to be the new “pyramid power”.

Ed nailed it quite well, if you are using simpler steels, 10xx, L6, O1, 5160, 52100, W1, W2 etc... and seeing a drastic increase in hardness after cryo, check your initial heat treatment, something wasn't quite right! If you get those results with richer alloys and stainless then cool that makes perfect sense and probably worth your money.

The amount of independent and objective information on this subject that has not been touched, influenced or outright funded by companies selling the same service is VERY small. This is particularly true of any article I have yet seen in a knife magazine on the topic. The knife enthusiast public really needs to come to grips with that fact that magazines are supported by, filled with, and entirely oriented around advertising, and virtually everything one sees in them, particularly the articles, are a form of P.R. Also I know of no magazine in our business that utilizes a staff metallurgist to verify if anything they print makes any sense whatsoever. I have spoken with a number of very impressive material scientists, who were basically brains with legs when it comes to metallurgy, who would simply laugh when the subject went any farther than converting retained austenite.

In short (oops too late again;)), it seems to be fact that we know cryo will indeed convert retained austenite and thus improve steel performance if that is an issue. Anything beyond that we don’t know for certain if it does anything at all and if somebody tells you they do, ask them if they happen to be involved with the cryo business in some way, if they are, please consider that when drawing your conclusions.

P.S. microscopic flat spots appearing on the edge may be the results of overgrown carbides. Really coarse carbides will often present embrittlement problems and will give edge issues as they get pulled out of the surrounding material at such a fine interface. Cryo will not do much for this, but careful intitial heat treating, particularly pre-quench treatments (normalizing, annealing and austenitizing) will help greatly in this area.
 
Kevin,

I have heard that the austenite/martensite conversion for stainless steels can be a function of time. Specifically, that the conversion will take place, absent a cryo cycle, over a period of years.

Would you comment on that? Is it true, or just someone else blowing smoke?

Thanks,

Gene
 
Kevin,

I have heard that the austenite/martensite conversion for stainless steels can be a function of time. Specifically, that the conversion will take place, absent a cryo cycle, over a period of years.

Would you comment on that? Is it true, or just someone else blowing smoke?

Thanks,

Gene
You will probably hear this in relation to applications that are rather sensitive to "dimensional stability", since over time when austenite (FCC) converts to something more stable (BCC) there will be an expansion. Whether this even registers on any scale would be dependant on the amount of retained austenite. The shear type reaction of martensite conversion is rapid and not reliant upon time factors, its occurrence later would be similar to a blade going “ping” from setting on the bench too long without a temper after the quench. It is not like you could stand there with a stop watch and predict when this sudden give in the lattice would occur and that untempered blade would crack, since any number of unseen factors could trigger the final give that initiates it but it is not directly dependent on time like a diffusional process, just that with enough time the odds increase that the breaking point will be seen. , making this type of conversion very undesirable since it is entirely unpredictable.

Diffusional processes are different, they are rather predictable and there are formulas that can do just that, based upon time at temperature. It is quite reasonable to say that some retained austenite will break down into more stable forms of ferrite and carbide, over time and one would need to extend this time out exponentially when you go as low as room temperature (well beyond the usual minutes an hours). But this conversion would be a much more imperceptible and gradual process.

One could take very precise measurements of an object just before a martensitic conversion and see the difference immediately after wards, while one would not really notice a diffusional transformation unless they compared measurements taken weeks or perhaps months apart, and even then it would be much more subtle. We should also remember the effects of suddenly having untempered martensite in a part that has a critical reliance on an exact overall hardness.
 
Not sure why it's chipping, but on Emerson's site it states that the Commander is hardened to HRC 57-59. The steel is 154CM.

From my own personal experience and from reading other maker's posts, ATS-34 and 154CM do best at HRC 60-61. This is the best combination of toughness and edge holding.

It seems like Ernie is opting for toughness over edge holding by lowering the hardness.

I think you're better off asking a maker (with an Evenheat or Paragon kiln) to normalize and reheat treat your blade (along with cryo) to HRC 61. Just sending it out to cryo probably won't make a noticeable difference or be worth it.
 
http://www.cryoplus.com/prices.html this is the web site it says its a 10 hour dry soak in -300 then 1 hour at +300. It was told to me by a university of michigan professor that the random molecular structure of the steel becomes more in line and not random this is the reason I am having some belief in the process. It seems that everyone has their own opinion on the subject and i am sad to say its confusing me
 
Knifenut, maybe you ought to find a professor who knows that metals have crystal structure not molecular structure !!!........These cryo threads usually go on for many pages and come to nothing . Maybe I should take bets on how many pages there will be !
 
sorry for not using the proper terms it was a long time ago and he seemed to know his stuff i know things change but he couldn't be that far off I would hope
 
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