What do you think will last longer? G-Flex or Acraglass?

Proper thorough prep matters considerably more than either of these specific brands IME.

I've continued to use both West System's G/Flex and Acraglas for over the years. They are different in app characteristics for sure, but I still trust either one. If I do my job right that is...
 
I'm a big fan of acraglass, bedded a ton of guns with it and never failed me. I like it because you can get it thin or thick. The thick stuff is the acraglass gell and the normal acraglass is quite thin. I used the thin stuff and an air compressor to blow it into splits in stocks works wonders. I like that it comes with a brown and black dye as well.
 
G-Flex comes in a thickened version, two large toothpaste tubes instead of bottles. I use it for bedding bolsters, since I often rivet them and go right to the wood scales, and it's not so messy.
West Marine is a good source if you have one nearby.
 
I use the thicker g-flex and blade bond. No problems with either but I go through gloves like crazy because I'm clumsy and ocd. I also use 3 systems clear for paracord wraps.
 
After reading all the great info here I ordered some G-Flex in tubes (4.5 oz.) "the thicker stuff" and tomorrow I am going to order some Blade Bond in their "Premium" and "Ultra" compositions to try out. The specifications on the Blade Bond Ultra product are impressive and the G-flex should be a lot better pre-thickened. It is going to be 111 degrees in Bakersfield tomorrow so I'm not worried about my epoxy taking too long to set up but the standard G-flex product is so thin I worry about starved glue joints. I am already using a can of soup on my scales for a gravity hold but I have to keep checking the bolsters for tightness. Thanks for all the suggestions. Sometimes I just don't want to use Corby bolts or Loveless bolts and I want good epoxy hold. Larry
 
Larry ya need to come up here and hang in the shade a little. But heck we're hitting 99 today and it never gets that hot up here. System 3 makes a silica thickner additive. Bought a tub for like $20 and have been using it for years with Gflex. Works great and you can make your epoxy as thin or as thick as you need for that particular application. I make my Gflex little thinner than toothpaste. No worry for glue starved joints. Only using a teaspoon or so of the thickner.
 
West Systems also makes several different thickeners. I can't remember the numbers of the proper one off the top of my head but if you call them and talk to appl. engr., they will give you their recommendations.
Tim
 
I've been using acra glass for almost 40 years too. There are several things I know about it that makes it a simple decision for me.

1) I've never heard of acra glass changing with time. Especially shelf life. Never have to wonder.

2) You can control viscosity and set time with temperature. Handy.

3) No waste. I've been using the same plain old syringes to measure exactly as much epoxy as needed for a couple years. Squirt it into a dixie cup and mix with a popsicle stick with a slightly angled end. Simple and clean.

4) Brownells sells atomized aluminum and stainless steel to make the epoxy stronger. Works great as a thickening agent. Takes on some properties of the metal, including visual properties, to a degree. I don't know why it's never spoken of. I use it often.

Of course you can use any other type of thickening agent. I collect some dust of whatever I'm sanding to thicken and/or tint the epoxy for near invisible repairs.

5) Has it's own aerosol release (anti-stick) agent which has no effect on the epoxy. Works better than you'd imagine.

6) Has it's own thinner. You can thin one cc or one quart of epoxy to the consistency of water without affecting the strength of the epoxy. Super easy clean-up, again without affecting the epoxy.

7) Easy to tint any color. Take small syringes to the paint store. Pull the plunger out and let the guy squirt the tint into the tube. One cc of a few colors of regular paint tint will tint gallons of acra glass.
 
Horsewright said:
Larry ya need to come up here and hang in the shade a little. But heck we're hitting 99 today and it never gets that hot up here. System 3 makes a silica thickner additive. Bought a tub for like $20 and have been using it for years with Gflex. Works great and you can make your epoxy as thin or as thick as you need for that particular application. I make my Gflex little thinner than toothpaste. No worry for glue starved joints. Only using a teaspoon or so of the thickner.
Click to expand...

Dave, Thanks for the info. Where do I go online to order some silica thickener like you use? I have a lot of G-flex but I would like using better with a little thickener. Thanks, Larry
 
grizzled gizzard said:
I've been using acra glass for almost 40 years too. There are several things I know about it that makes it a simple decision for me.

1) I've never heard of acra glass changing with time. Especially shelf life. Never have to wonder.

2) You can control viscosity and set time with temperature. Handy.

3) No waste. I've been using the same plain old syringes to measure exactly as much epoxy as needed for a couple years. Squirt it into a dixie cup and mix with a popsicle stick with a slightly angled end. Simple and clean.

4) Brownells sells atomized aluminum and stainless steel to make the epoxy stronger. Works great as a thickening agent. Takes on some properties of the metal, including visual properties, to a degree. I don't know why it's never spoken of. I use it often.

Of course you can use any other type of thickening agent. I collect some dust of whatever I'm sanding to thicken and/or tint the epoxy for near invisible repairs.

5) Has it's own aerosol release (anti-stick) agent which has no effect on the epoxy. Works better than you'd imagine.

6) Has it's own thinner. You can thin one cc or one quart of epoxy to the consistency of water without affecting the strength of the epoxy. Super easy clean-up, again without affecting the epoxy.

7) Easy to tint any color. Take small syringes to the paint store. Pull the plunger out and let the guy squirt the tint into the tube. One cc of a few colors of regular paint tint will tint gallons of acra glass.
Click to expand...

I can suggest you to try with finely chopped carbon fiber for hidden tang knife ...........
 
From what I have read, the "stated" shelf life for unmixed resin and hardener like West system is 10 years. My limited experience is that the regular fast hardener will darken over time, but with no effect on the physical properties. I use the regular 105 resin with the 205 fast and the 206 medium speed hardeners and the colloidal silica filler.
 
Reading all of this really makes me appreciate the Blade Bond Ultra even more. Great thickness, no shelf life and super easy to measure. No muss no fuss.
 
No CLAIMED shelf life.
AVigil said:
Reading all of this really makes me appreciate the Blade Bond Ultra even more. Great thickness, no shelf life and super easy to measure. No muss no fuss.
Click to expand...
 
Proper thorough prep matters considerably more than either of these specific brands IME.
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more.

I use Acraglass, no desire to use anything else. There may be better epoxies out there, but I know and trust Acraglass. Also I don't fully trust ANY epoxy, no matter how strong. If it's a full tang then there is ample room for epoxy and there are blind nicks and mechanical locks, pins are either peened or Loveless bolt type. Hidden tang I will do some without a pin, but the slot in the handle material is undercut and the tang has notches and often a hole in it to mechanically lock it in place, you could coat the tang and inside of the handle block with release agent and it wouldn't come loose.

On either style the epoxy is a moister seal and insurance, not what's holding the handle together.
 
Last edited:
jdm61 said:
No CLAIMED shelf life.
Click to expand...

Yes the developer makes the claim the product really has no shelf life expiration. He really knows epoxy and loves to explain the development and process .
 
Allow me to toss another vote for BladeBond - I've used a bit of it and it really works good. I like the 1 to 1 mix ratio, and was created just for knifemaking.

Raka is a fine place also - I've used their products in boat related stuff for years - just as good as West System, and must less expensive.
 
It seems to boil down to find the adhesive that works best for you and do proper surface preparation. the "epoxy war" threads here and elsewhere plus advise from industrial makers; proper surface preparation and clamping effects the outcome a whole lot more than the namebrand of the adhesive.
scott
 
Thank you so much all for the discussion.

As always it means I have to buy more knifemaking stuff!!!:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top