What do you want a fixed blade knife to be capable of?

What do you expect from your field knife?

  • I only use my knife for basic cutting.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • It needs to be any tool the situation calls for.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • It needs to keep an edge until I get home.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • It needs to be tough but I can field sharpen.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • I get daily exercise by splitting logs with my knife.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
Quote Originally Posted by Tyronethepro View Post
Survive-Gear, I have a quick question if I may, What do you think the price of the GSO-5 will be when done?
Thank you for your time and patience
~Tyrone
I am shooting for $170-190ish for the GSO series in cpm 3v, I'll have it nailed down in a few days when all of the elements come together. I am trying to dream up a bladeforum member discount on this first run also. Just a way to say thank you for the feedback. Being a new guy around here I know people will want things as cheap as possible to try it out.
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Thank you for answering my question Survive. That seems like a real decent price for that knife with CPM 3v steel.
 
I think a knife should perform as well as its price point. For example: I love Beckers, the design, and price. The fit and finish is not the greatest but they just keep on performing at a cheap price. I personally think that tops knives are way to overpriced at 1095 when I can get a Becker, so I will never own one. Your knives need to be worth the price that someone will pay. That may sound a little obvious, but its true. They have great promise, keep it up. Thanks -Josh
 
GenerallyAwsomeDude said:
I think a knife should perform as well as its price point. For example: I love Beckers, the design, and price. The fit and finish is not the greatest but they just keep on performing at a cheap price. I personally think that tops knives are way to overpriced at 1095 when I can get a Becker, so I will never own one. Your knives need to be worth the price that someone will pay. That may sound a little obvious, but its true. They have great promise, keep it up. Thanks -Josh
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Well, I tried to veer away from just designing the standard prybar with a cutting edge concept. The handle area under the slabs has a good bit of material removed with the skeletoning, which will give you better balance. What it also does though is cuts a decent amount of weight, so you don't get hit with as much of a weight penalty for the knife's size. Granted, if the guy on youtube gets his hands on one, he might be able to bend it if he puts a GSO in a vise and starts hammering it with a sledge hammer but for real people it should be a well balance, very hard use knife. The handle slabs will be recessed a bit on the back side so they key into the threaded stainless barrels nicely. This will keep the slabs from shifting at all and increase the overall integrity of the knife. I chose to go with black oxide coated stainless torx screws for a few reasons. First reason is that I personally like to take a knife apart to clean and inspect it from time to time. Second reason is that you may get one with coating and decide later to take it off or the other way around. This also gives you the option of changing handles easily. Yes, I will be offering optional handles in the future. Exactly what materials I end up getting as options will be the subject of a future poll. Lastly, I went with torx over the standard allen head because torx just holds up and resists stripping out better. Also, let me mention again that each knife will come complete with a useful kydex sheath. The fit and finish will be excellent just because to me it has to be. I want to provide tools that will last a lifetime or even two lifetimes, that feel good in the hand so people WANT to use them. I hope that people at least find them to be a good buy for the money or with any luck, walk away feeling like they stole it for a great price.
 
I only use small fixed blades and carry them for edc tasks. Sometimes they get work with light woodcutting during camping trips or when i decide i want a fire in my backyard pit. Pretty much all I want it to do is cut well and hold an edge
 
dtownknifekid said:
I only use small fixed blades and carry them for edc tasks. Sometimes they get work with light woodcutting during camping trips or when i decide i want a fire in my backyard pit. Pretty much all I want it to do is cut well and hold an edge
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I have to go make some dinner but I just finished my GSO-3 mock up. I will post a photo later. I might be able to sneak a few into the sheet of steel during this run if it gets a favorable impression from all of you. It features a 3.5" blade and an overall length of only 6 7/8"
 
survive-gear said:
Hello to anyone reading this post. I am soon releasing three knife models and had a question. I was planning some torture tests to ilustrate what my knives are capable of but then I thought, why not ask YOU!? What do you want from a fixed blade knife? What do you expect it to be able to do? What real world tests of the knife's capabilities would you like to see?
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Welcome to BF!

If you want to make a name for yourself here, I would suggest that you offer-up one of your knives for a pass-around & review. This way, you will get many people to use and give opinions about the same knife. Take a look at the Pass-around Sub-forum for how to arrange. It can be done there, or also in the Outdoors sub-forum.

note: I'm too lazy and busy to take part, but I do follow them (like many here) and favorable results have influenced my purchase of several knives.
 
GSO-3 012.jpg GSO-3 011.jpg
Ok, here is my mock up of my mini utility knife. The handle is more or less a three finger grip, with my pinky sort of wrapping around the pommel. I added a choil area for those times when you want all of your fingers securely on the knife. It's a minimalist design with and overall length of just under 7" and a 3.5" blade, from the edge of the handle. It's almost a darned neck knife. lol. All in all I find it very comfy for the size but I would love to hear your thoughts. Is this design something anyone would be interested in? I know it's wood. I find carving relaxing and I have a bunch of planed cherry laying around so it's free. lol
 
World domination. :D

Your designs look good. Clean and useful. :thumbup:
 
Well, I double tapped, so I guess I'll answer. :D
My standards aren't that high, I suppose, because I don't expect to breach tanks or take down a redwood.
I carry a saw and/or axe most times for any sizable cutting, though I'll admit I get pleasure from chopping with a large knife, and I pack one sometimes.
Mainly, I just want a comfortable design, good blade geometry that bites well, and quality steel that is nicely heat treated so that it keeps an edge.
I expect to have to occasionally sharpen my knives, and they don't have to split atoms, but they do need to cut what I want to cut.
More often than not, that's wood and my Mountain House aluminum pouch. :p
 
So will you eventually market your designs in a cheaper steel?? Like A2 or 1095?? I don't know if I would be able to afford the CPM-3V version. My knife money is a little tight right now.
 
Yes, for sure the knives will be available in some other steel options in the future. I will need to. I just settled on 3V for the first run. Just got my invoice for two sheets of the stuff this evening($18 a pound, WOW!). I just figured people will be putting these things through the paces a bit with the first run so I wanted to make sure everything is 120% good to go. On a brighter note, I will be offering some of my first run in the 3V on here to members for a discount. I won't leave you hanging. :thumbup:
 
I am going to say what a fixed blade should be in my eyes. it should be 1. stronger than a folder. if i can get something stronger in a smaller package, what am i carrying the fixed blade for? 2. do everything to some extent. everything excels at something. however, a large fixed blade should be able to keep me alive and not fail at most any task. whether it be cutting limbs off a tree, batoning through a large piece of wood to make more manageable pieces, or making fuzz sticks, it needs to do what needs to be done. precise stuff can be done with a folder. a fixed blade needs to be able to take abuse.

I do not have a tremendous amount of experience in this area, but i know what i want in a fixed blade by taking what i need a knife to do and subtracting what can be done with a folder.
 
Tyronethepro said:
Survive, your mini utility mock up looks very nice.
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Thanks Tyrone, I appreciate that. The more I look at it and play with it, the more I can plan my changes. I really want to be able to fit all four fingers on the handle. Tomorrow I'll carve another eliminating the choil to reclaim a little cutting surface and increase the handle area. I'll still keep it just under 7". I love using wood for mock ups. They don't cost me anything but my time and it gives me a better chance to form a relationship with my designs. Plus I end up with lots of neat looking designs laying around. ;) The final product won't let you guys down. I promise. I'm looking at using A2 or 1095 for those to keep the cost low. A small knife shouldn't cost a lot since you can't put enough torque on it to require a super alloy.
 
Coming from more of a military view point, I would love a handle that has allows a saber and revers grip.

A blade length and tip that allows deep penetration when stabbing.

I don’t like reflective finishes on military field knives.

The sheath system is a big selling point when it comes to a field knife for me. I haven’t seen what your looks like.:confused:
 
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Edwood7 said:
Coming from a more of a military view point, I would love a handle that has allows a saber and revers grip. A blade length and tip that allows deep penetration when stabbing.
I don’t like reflective finishes on blades on military field knives.
The sheath system is a big part of the selling point when it comes to a field knife for me. I haven’t seen what your looks like.
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The sheaths at least for the 5 and 6 will be a pancake style kydex that is molle compatible. It will also have a belt attachment that is hard to explain in words but everyone will see them soon. I'm contemplating making the sheath for the 4 a foldover style. I guess I still have until I get to that point to decide on that. I'm also going to have Martin Swinkels http://martinsheaths.blogspot.com/ make some custom sheath options for my knives.
On your military side of things, the GSO-5 and 6 designs feel so secure in the hand. They very seriously make me want to stab things.
 
survive-gear said:
I'm looking at using A2 or 1095 for those to keep the cost low. A small knife shouldn't cost a lot since you can't put enough torque on it to require a super alloy.
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IMHO I think I prefer a super sharp stainless metal on my small fixed blades, you could look into 154-CM. Super sharp for finer cuts and stainless so that it wont rust when I skin or prep food. Because I don't generally need a super tough steel on my small knives. Just my personal opinion


EDIT: I would like to add that I expect a good warranty from my fixed blade. (to answer the original question)
 
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