What drill bit size to use for non peened pins?

good point scotticks I guess I'll just have to try doing it a couple different ways and see which knives come out better. You can actually calculate excactly how much the diameter would change depending on how much the temperature changes and what your original diameter is, even for smaller diameters. Maybe if I have some extra time I open up my physics book and do some calculating for popular pin sizes.

Anyways, thanks for the help every one, I have a lot of references to go off of now, so it's just a matter of making a decision.
 
GibsonFan said:
Gotcha. For my next dumb question :o ... where do you get the colored epoxy?
Click to expand...

When I'm using colored epoxy I use Devcon. Since I only use black it's almost always in stock. I also use the highest strength epoxy I can find. That usually means the fast cure epoxy is not my choice. I get mine at the True Value hardware store down the street.
 
It will probably make a difference what kind of handle material works best with the "pin freeze" method that has been described. I wouldn't trust this method on a knife that I wouldn't keep, especially with natural handle materials such as bone, ivory, and stag. That stuff is subject to movement that a straight pin probably won't hold.

The traditional method - you might consider tapering the pin holes with a 2 degree reamer and peening or doming the pins. This will hold the material down physically so that glue isn't relied upon solely for holding power.

The nice thing about this kind of thing is you can do it however you want. And, above all, have fun at it.
 
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