What is the most chip resistant blade steel?

D

digdeep

Joined
Mar 19, 2005
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Seems like recently many posts state how their blade chipped while doing ordinary knife chores.

I've encountered this myself with S30V.

Just curious. What blade steel out there can resist chipping the best? Brands please. Thanks.

Sorry, I just realized I'm possibly in the wrong forum. Moderater move this if need be.
 
Cold Steel makes very small teeth in its serrated blades and I've never heard of their AUS 8A blades chipping. I would think that the tougher steels aren't always the ones that hold the best edges. CRKT AUS 8 blades I would think also would be more than acceptable. Right now I wouldn't buy Gerber, nothing by Smith & Wesson. Spyderco has some wonderful offerings but again, I'd probably go with a Cold Steel.
 
Probably a carbon steel like INFI or SR101 (I don't think I need to name the brands for those, do I?).
 
HoB said:
Probably a carbon steel like INFI or SR101 (I don't think I need to name the brands for those, do I?).
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I figured someone would mention those. You rats and hogs never give up! :D

How about CPM-3V. (I don't think I need to name that brand either)
 
thebladeguy said:
5160? :D Had to mention them to.

TBG
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Got several!

But what else for folding blade steel besides those already mentioned? Maybe Cliff might want to step in here.
 
Folders? I'd guess 1095, or Case's "chrome vanadium" carbon steel. The simple carbon alloys tend (have the reputation?) to be more chip resistant the higher alloys, I think. Or Greco's carbon folders (8670? something like that.) Benchmade's M2 would be much better than S30V, etc, but not as good as the simple carbon steels.

So, Opinel. (French equivalent of 1075, aren't they?) The Kissing Crane $9 Solingen carbon sodbudsters? Or some of Atlanta Cutlery's carbon steel folders made in India, if you don'e care about edge holding.

I presume the ultimate in hard-to-chip would be alloys like the shock resisting steels used for jachhammer bits and such - S-7 and Crucible's new S-7 replacements.
 
Walking Man said:
Have YOU ever owned one? If so, you'd know the truth!
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Have a Camp Tramp and just last week got my first Busse - tan Satin Jac Tac. What a beauty!

Yes they are very chip resistant but from the replies so far, it seems some of the less expensive steels also hold up well.

I would like to get a production folder that has the same qualities for use as a beater and take a lot of abuse without that dang chipping yet not have to be frequently sharpened.

What about M2 as previously mentioned - would most agree that's a good choice?
 
I use a blade made from a .6% carbon steel alloyed with 2% tungsten and a spit and spray of vanadium and chromium. It is called 1.2550 in the german terms of declaration. It was hardened and tempered to the maximum of potential so it should be at a hardness of 58 to 60 HRC.

Since 10 month i never had any kind of chip as i have noticed on several other steel grades including SR101 and the kind.

String using it it sometimes developed a spot of a deformation at the belly but this ended after some good resharpening sessions.

Once i tested it in cutting cardboard against a BM 140HS. It is not plain scientific but both blades lost their shaving sharpness in the same time, even though the 140 blade is much longer. Both kept a good working edge, maybe at least the M2 may have won, if dulling down to nowhere would have been the task.
 
leatherbird said:
I'll have to second 1095 and 5160,properly heat treated. :thumbup: :D
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I think my coworkers would look at me strangely with an 18" HI strapped on my side :eek:

What production 1095 folder has a good heat treat or is it just the luck of the draw?
 
digdeep said:
I figured someone would mention those. You rats and hogs never give up! :D

How about CPM-3V. (I don't think I need to name that brand either)
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Compared to the other crucible steels, and in general for a steel that resists abrasion/deformation so well, 3V is very tough. It DOES chip, though. Granted, any knife steel in the world will chip if you hit it right, but 3V is more likely to than 5160, 1065, INFI, S7 and so on. There are others as well but I'm just speaking to those I've had direct experience with. Granted, of that list only INFI really compares with 3V when it comes to edge holding longevity.

Anyway, 3V is great stuff but it isn't the toughest out there.
 
The higher the rc is the more prone to chipping. Also a very thin grind and edge. The toughest steels I know of as mentioned already are 5160, S7 and S5. The latter two being used for jackhammer bits, punches, chisels and hammers.
Scott
 
No one mentioned L6. Very tough steel and very resistant to chipping. But a lot of this has to do with HT for all steels. You HT it hard enough and it will chip I don't care what steel it is. 420HC seems to be fairly tough for a Stainless. I have had good luck with 1095 and 1084 as well. Of course 5160 and 52100 are great.

Also, I don't think S-5 is made any longer so you would have to settle for S-7.
 
I've chipped both INFI and SR101 (Steelheart and Camp Tramp respectively). Of course I hit a heavy staple with the former and a large rock with the latter (it was hidden in some brush). As someone said, you can chip most really hard edges given the right circumstances. Remember, even diamonds chip if you hit them right.
 
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