what is the overall, safest lock - lockback? over

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peshkabz

Joined
May 6, 2003
Messages
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linerlock or framelock?

I got good answers about the linerlocks - tell me about the lockbacks then - pro's con's

how do they compare - say all other components the same on the same knife - compare to liner/frame locks?
 
The oldest, most reliable, most used knife I have is a buck 112 lock back folding knife. I have owned and used this knife for almost 30 years. A lockback knife is very safe and durable. The reason this knife and other lockbacks aren't in my edc is that they aren't easy to use one handed.This is the same reason my SAK's have rotated out of primary edc.I still like and use the Buck 112 and 110 just not everyday.
 
in a good ol' lockback. However, I've never handled a high end frame lock. A good liner lock is just fine but I think a lock back is easier to make consistantly reliable on a mass produced mid priced knife. I don't fully trust the axis lock but I don't fully trust cars that you need a chip to make go faster, either. I like to keep things as simple as possible. But that's just me. A lot of people have used frame, liner and axis lock and been pleased as punch. I think the overall design and build quality is more important than what kind of lock it has. YMMV

Frank
 
Nothing like a good ol' lockback. If you love your Buck 112 or 110 (like me) get it converted to an auto if you want to open it with one hand or get a one-armed bandit.

I think a good Automatic lock is the best, you never have to touch the blade and since it's a nice Microtech or BM it isn't going to accidentaly fire in your pocket. For manuals a BM axis lock is the best.
 
Originally posted by SilverFoxKnows

I don't fully trust the axis lock but I don't fully trust cars that you need a chip to make go faster, either. I like to keep things as simple as possible. But that's just me. A lot of people have used frame, liner and axis lock and been pleased as punch. I think the overall design and build quality is more important than what kind of lock it has. YMMV

Frank

I feel that the axis lock is a very simple design, and I cannot believe nobody else has thought of this years ago! IMO
 
Sometimes pocket lint can obstruct a lever lock back from engaging. I have also seen rear lockbacks fail compared to mid-lock backs on several zytel handled folders.
 
For sheer strength nothing beats a lockback.Nothing

The reason is that all other types of locks simply
block the blade from rotating in the closing
direction. The lockback, however , used a tang and
groove to fully engage the blade tang in both the
open and close direction.

It's true that a bit of dirt , lint ,etc. can,
rarely, prevent the tang from seating in the groove
This does NOT happen often on quality lockbacks.
Maybe a big O'goober of mud might foul the works
but not one of my Buck's, Spyderco's or Schrade
lockbacks has every failed me. Not one. ( this
statement concerning quality lockbacks will not
apply to cheap knock off lockbacks)

Can't say that about liner/ frame locks. :rolleyes:
 
Overall I really like lockbacks, they tend to be solid, simple and strong.

They do, however, have potential disadvantages (which a good manufacturer can overcome):
1st is one-hand closing can be tricky (Try one-hand closing a Buck 110, it's doable, but not easy), but most mid-lockbacks (i.e. Spyderco and SOG) tend to be easy enough to one-hand close.

2nd is the spring resistance for the lockback on the pivot, I'm sure you've noticed opening any lockback that there's extra "weight" to the opening as you go through the opening stroke, as the pivot must come around, under the lock until it reaches the recess that it locks into, this is especially noticeable on folders like the Spyderco Chinook, I would imagine on more poorly made lockbacks an over-powerful spring could potentially make it very difficult to open.

However, when the quality is there, Lockbacks are great locks.
 
A fixed blade. ;)

A balisong in close second, followed by the AXIS lock. I don't know why, but I'm always afraid of disengaging a lockback knife when I'm using it. I like Spyderco's indentation in the lockback though.
 
In general, I pretty much agree that my concern is more with the workmanship and materials of the knife than what sort of locking mechanism it has.

As Chuck said.., you can throw 'em all out the door compared to the locking dynamics of the Balisong knife..., second only to a fixed blade of course.
 
I disagree with Tightwad on the matter that a lockback is the strongest lock. I do think that they are probably the most reliable. I believe that a liner or frame lock is stronger just because it pushes the tang from the direction that it closes. A lever lockback grips and holds the tang from the opposite direction of blade travel when closing. I have the Cold Steel Proof II dvd's. I'll have to watch and see their tests of the Prolites and Voyagers.
 
that worry me. If taking the knife apart didn't void the warranty and they'd sell you the omega springs I might have a Griptilian. I really like the looks of it, I really like the feel of it. I just have nagging doubts. I've never been stuck in an elevator but I ALWAYS take the stairs at work, even if that means climbing them 30 times a day. I may overcome my fear one of these days and get one anyway. As I said, I like the knife.

Frank
 
The Centerlock by Arlee Niemi seems to have them all beat-- by a longshot. The Megaladon is tank of a knife. I suppose more of these Centerlock knives will be coming out soon.
 
Can Arlee's Centerlock work on a lightweight knife? I was real tempted by what I saw on his website, after Shmoopiebear reviewed the knife.

I've gotten a bit of a collection of framelocks: CRK Sebenzas, Umfaan, and Mnandi, Greco Raptor and Falcon, Darrell Ralph EDC, Apogee, Madd Maxx, and CUDA Maxx, Benchmade Big Spender, and Spyderco stainless steel Cricket. All different sizes and shapes of handle and blade, and every one a secure lockup. The Grecos and the titanium handles are extremely strong. All except the Maxxes are fairly compact and lightweight.

I also agree that lockbacks are extremely reliable. My Vaquero Grande and Spyderco Massad Ayoob have held up under very heavy use. They close easily enough: I squeeze the lock to release it, and brush the back of the blade against something, generally my leg.
 
Some may say the lockback is no longer a good lock when compared to other modern locks. I favor the Axis lock but the tradtional Lockback has worked for 40+ years they must have be doing something right.
 
This is just my opinion, but I think the lock back will still be in use many years after the Axis lock fades away.

Paul
 
I've seen some decent linerlocks, but a lot of them wear out pretty badly, and become dangerous. I really like the lock on my CRKT Ryan model 7, but when I compare it to my Chinook, I realise that the Chinook just has SO MUCH metal holding it closed. I also have a lot of confidence in Syderco's compression lock, it seems like an improved liner lock, but I hate the way the Gunting pinches my hand when I open it.
 
The only time I've had a folder accidentally close on me during real world use, it was a lockback. I was cutting down into cardboard with a Spyderco Chinook and encountered some binding. I jerked the knife up to free the blade and it folded. My index finger was in the choil though, so I avoided getting cut.

The problem was that I had been carrying the knife frequently and lint from my pocket built up in the notch in the tang (where the rocker bar falls into). It felt like the knife was locked open, but it actually wasn't.

You could say that the lock "failed" in this case, but routine maintenance would have prevented the failure. I'm now careful to make sure that I clean the knife regularly.

Some locks don't seem to suffer as much from having dirt and grime in their works though. For instance: I don't see how pocket lint would interfere with the workings of a liner lock.
 
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