What is the very best folding knife for the least amount of money?

King of the Cheese

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For this thread, I’d like to identify the very BEST folding knife for the LEAST amount of money, to see what offerings are out there that BladeForums participants have found. I know there are a few obvious choices that are heavily reviewed, like the Ontario RAT series… but I’m curious to know what you all have come across and personally used that may not have gone viral or trended in popularity. Feel free to leave the name of the knife and company that makes it in the comments, and a note about what makes it so special. Remember: Less $ is “more”. I’m really wanting to focus on that sub $50 range. The more money you save while still having a fantastic knife, the better.
 
MAM3A friction folder. As little as $11 and low coinage shipped. 3.5 inch blade. They also make one wth a press to release liner lock, for a couple dollars additional.
(not my picture)
As slicy as an Opinel, too.
View attachment 1699332
Large MAM friction folder with a sheepsfoot blade. Out-slices my Opinel N°8.
I paid under $14 for this one, a couple years ago. No. It came with the leather fob pre-installed.
View attachment 1699338View attachment 1699339
 
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You can get a brand new Buck 110 for about $60 and a Ontario Rat 1 (D2) for about $37.
Depending on where you shop, you can get a standard brass and wood 110 for under $40. The 110LT with FRN handle for under $30.
It's just my opinion but, while Opinels are great for a picnic basket or even a tool kit , they're not so great as an EDC that you carry in your pocket.

If they were, you'd see alot more of them carried in pockets because of their extremely low price.
Number 1 best selling knife in the world, is the Victorinox Swiss Army knife. Number 2 is Opinel. Each company sells millions of knives every year around the world.
Outside the US, where many "think" a folding knife isn't "safe" without a blade lock, the average user, uses their slipjoints and friction folders a heck of a lot "harder" than those who insist on a "overbuilt" folder with a lock strong enough they could stab the knife in a door frame and use it to do pullups, to cut cardboard, strip a wire, or cut open a letter, would ever dream of using their "overbuilt" knives.

A slipjoint and friction folder are not "a finger amputation waiting to happen."

your $12 gas station knife might do your job, but will never do mine
Is that because you'll never buy one?
Or is because you use your knife for non-knife tasks, like felling a tree, splitting firewood, pry, a screwdriver, or for opening a can of ... oh ... wait. MilTek/TacForce/Master Cutlery/Frost, and the other cheap gas station/truckstop knives can open cans of food without damaging the knife or edge.

I suspect the former: You'll never buy one.
 
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Depending on where you shop, you can get a standard brass and wood 110 for under $40. The 110LT with FRN handle for under $30.



A slipjoint and friction folder are not "a finger amputation waiting to happen."

If you are buying old inventory knife - it MAY be true
But actual MAP IS $60
I understand it's hard to understand ...


And YES
"a finger amputation waiting to happen !"
It even happens to me some 45 years ago ...
So stop bragging, sorry


"BU110
SRP: $76.95
Your Price: $00.00
MAP: $59.99"
 
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Swiss Army knives, decent price and still decent quality. Followed by Buck and Opinel, however I would also like to try a MAM. I chose the way I did because having a SA i had a good set of tools that did little jobs well, it was pocket friendly and is not hard to replace. And it always brought a smile to my face and made feel like a kid again, simple pleasures and simple treasures. A Buck because it was American made and sturdy, now having lighter weight knives, and Opinel because of simplicity and are good slicers. I like my #8 garden knife with a spear point as it is a more useful blade and I am a sucker for them lately.
 
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If you are buying old inventory knife - it MAY be true
But actual MAP IS $60
You made me look it up, and it seems the price has gone up at a lot of online retailers. I wonder what the cheaper package with nylon sheath is going for at Walmart.
 
You made me look it up, and it seems the price has gone up at a lot of online retailers. I wonder what the cheaper package with nylon sheath is going for at Walmart.
I think about $27
but not 100% sure
usually there is price only, no actual merchandise !
 
If you are buying old inventory knife - it MAY be true
But actual MAP IS $60
I understand it's hard to understand ...


And YES
"a finger amputation waiting to happen !"
It even happens to me some 45 years ago ...
So stop bragging, sorry


"BU110
SRP: $76.95
Your Price: $00.00
MAP: $59.99"
MAP is Minimum ADVERTISED Price; not the Minimum SELLING price.
A dealer can sell for less, they cannot ADVERTISE it for less.
Wally has the standard 110 for around $40 everyday.

As for finger amputation ... Sorry you lost yours. You are in the minority.
People have been using friction folders since between 600 and 500 BC/BCE Oldest Pocketknife Ever Found
The Slipjoint was Invented in the mid 1600's.
People have been using folding knives without a blade lock for over 2,500 to 2,600 years. The vast majority without so much as a serious cut.
How many of your ancestors over the last two and a half millennium removed a portion of one of their fingers, while using their friction folder or slipjoint?

I knew my maternal Great Grandfather (1892-1973), maternal Great Grandmother (1901-1966), and maternal Great-Great Grandmother (c1870-1963) All three carried and used a folding knife during their normal daily activities, their entire lives.
None had removed a portion of their fingers. Great Grandparents were farmers, by the way, who did eventually upgrade to mechanical equipment over horse/mule/ox powered.
Great Grandpa carried a inexpensive slipjoint during the time I can remember him (1959/1960 to 1973) from age 4 or 5.

My mum also took me with her when she visited two of his older brothers, that lived in the same town. They both passed around 1960-1961, so I don't remember much of them. I do remember they had 8 complete fingers, and two complete thumbs.

If the blade closed on your finger with sufficient force to remove a portion of your finger, then you were using it for something you shouldn't have been. Especially if the portion lost contained bone. It takes a LOT of force to cut through bone with a knife.

Sorry, but That is a FACT.
A knife is made to cut and slice. Unless you are doing something stupid, like stab something, or trying to cut/slice with the blade spine, the normal cutting/slicing action forces the blade OPEN not closed.
 
MAP is Minimum ADVERTISED Price; not the Minimum SELLING price.
A dealer can sell for less, they cannot ADVERTISE it for less.
Wally has the standard 110 for around $40 everyday.

As for finger amputation ... Sorry you lost yours. You are in the minority.
People have been using friction folders since between 600 and 500 BC/BCE Oldest Pocketknife Ever Found
The Slipjoint was Invented in the mid 1600's.
People have been using folding knives without a blade lock for over 2,500 to 2,600 years. The vast majority without so much as a serious cut.
How many of your ancestors over the last two and a half millennium removed a portion of one of their fingers, while using their friction folder or slipjoint?

I knew my maternal Great Grandfather (1892-1973), maternal Great Grandmother (1901-1966), and maternal Great-Great Grandmother (c1870-1963) All three carried and used a folding knife during their normal daily activities, their entire lives.
None had removed a portion of their fingers. Great Grandparents were farmers, by the way, who did eventually upgrade to mechanical equipment over horse/mule/ox powered.
Great Grandpa carried a inexpensive slipjoint during the time I can remember him (1959/1960 to 1973) from age 4 or 5.

My mum also took me with her when she visited two of his older brothers, that lived in the same town. They both passed around 1960-1961, so I don't remember much of them. I do remember they had 8 complete fingers, and two complete thumbs.

If the blade closed on your finger with sufficient force to remove a portion of your finger, then you were using it for something you shouldn't have been. Especially if the portion lost contained bone. It takes a LOT of force to cut through bone with a knife.

Sorry, but That is a FACT.
A knife is made to cut and slice. Unless you are doing something stupid, like stab something, or trying to cut/slice with the blade spine, the normal cutting/slicing action forces the blade OPEN not closed.
Walmart DO NOT HAVE them
Unless old stock stored on back shelf !!!


Stop bragging !

Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter Lock Back Knife​

(4.8)4.8 stars out of 114 reviews114 reviews
$60.00
Was $82.00 $82.00


That's all, bye
 
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Walmart DO NOT HAVE them
Unless old stock stored on back shelf !!!


Stop bragging !

Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter Lock Back Knife​

(4.8)4.8 stars out of 114 reviews114 reviews
$60.00
Was $82.00 $82.00


That's all, bye
Is that from the local Wally's or from their website ordering from a dealer that sells on Wally's site?

Last time I was at the local supercenter, (admittedly it's been a couple years) they had both the brass & wood in stock, in the locked display case, for call it "$40" and the 110LT for call it "$29" or "$30".

On the website a few months ago, "IN STOCK AVAILABLE FOR PICKUP" at the local supercenter, the price for the standard 110 was still around $40. The 110LT was still around $30.

Question:
How am I "bragging"?

Twice now you have accused me of that.
 
Is that because you'll never buy one?
Or is because you use your knife for non-knife tasks, like felling a tree, splitting firewood, pry, a screwdriver, or for opening a can of ... oh ... wait. MilTek/TacForce/Master Cutlery/Frost, and the other cheap gas station/truckstop knives can open cans of food without damaging the knife or edge.

I suspect the former: You'll never buy one.
With all due respect, you are answering based on assumption and ego. You don't know me and your assumptions are totally wrong.
As most people interested in knives I also started with cheap models, about 40 years ago in Europe and then here in US. I went trough the crappy gas-station knives just to find out
that this is what they are - crap. If I moved to better designs and steels iт's because of my experience, not because I like expensive knives.
Here is a cheap M-Tech I bought probably 12 years ago for $12 and use the $#!t out of it till I find out how crappy the lock is by cutting myself. The only useful thing in this knife is the DESIGN ( by Tops)
That's why I moveд with the time to a better designs and those people who designed the models some how decided that they should use better steels, and they cost more than $12.

mtech03.jpg


Another thing you are very wrong - there is no "non-knife" tasks. Period. One can use a knife any way he finds it suitable or needed.
You can't tell me how to use my knives just as you cannot define "non-knife" tasks or what is "the BEST" knife as used by the OP.
I don't mind at all if you like to use particular knives only for "knife" tasks, whatever this means, more power to you, but don't tell me
I'm not using my knives the way they are intended because the way I'm using them was basically making me few bucks for the last 10-15 years,
I guess I was doing something right.
 
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Is that from the local Wally's or from their website ordering from a dealer that sells on Wally's site?

Last time I was at the local supercenter, (admittedly it's been a couple years) they had both the brass & wood in stock, in the locked display case, for call it "$40" and the 110LT for call it "$29" or "$30".

On the website a few months ago, "IN STOCK AVAILABLE FOR PICKUP" at the local supercenter, the price for the standard 110 was still around $40. The 110LT was still around $30.

Question:
How am I "bragging"?

Twice now you have accused me of that.

It is where you are using this anecdotal evidence to explain why something that might be dangerous isn't. Because you and your family some sort of super knife weilders.

Pretend I said driving drunk is dangerous. And you were like I do it all the time and never crash. Mabye you need to learn to drive. That would be bragging.

Now I don't care. But you asked the question.
 
I was on Amazon late last night and the standard Buck 110 was like $90 as I recall. That may be a little 'spensive to remain my vote for this thread. I thought that Buck was way cheaper.

There are a couple contenders currently in the Exchange in a package deal. These right here could be the winners at $15 each.

 
I find the Cold Steel Kudu at under $10 to be quite usable.
The thin blade can be used for kitchen prep and I've used it around the yard too.
I've used mine for years and there's no sign of wear on the ratcheting lock.

It's light enough to slip in a front pocket next to a wallet and you don't even know it's there.

Don't know if they're still made as well as this one, but they still sell for close to the price I paid years ago.

kudub.jpg
 
Maybe it is just me, but I think we need to use a little common sense and not get uptight when people have different ideas in knife use, however, we do not need to be mean about it. It is ok to agree to disagree. I probably will get a few remarks from others just for saying something. My dad was an electrical engineer and was very good at making things, he used tools and was telling his kids to use the right tool for the right job at hand. This little bit of wisdom proved itself time and again when we used a tool in such a way that it was not designed for, and it is a wonder how we escaped injury. I have seen people pry with a pocket knife to remove hubcaps, can lids, etc, and I still am flabbergasted by those who try to baton with a folder, yes it can be done, but is it wise to do so? Or when they just need a little boost to reach something they grab something to stand on, and it crushes it and you slip. I get it there are times when a situation arises where we do not have the right tools at hand, but rather than just reaching for something to do the job, take a few seconds to think about what may happen, maybe a little time needs to be taken to go get the right tool even if it is inconvenient, or better yet, before tackling a job, think about what tools will be needed and assemble them. And the job will be finished a lot faster when done with the right tools. Sorry for the tangent.
 
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I have also noticed how the price for a Buck 110 has fluctuated. Sometimes the local big box store ( you know which one) has a good price on them, like last Christmas, but I just went there yesterday, and did not see them in stock. I did see the 110LT for about 30.00 and I thought it was a good deal. I saw the 119 for about 60.00, I used to remember seeing them for about 45.00. Prices have gone up a bit, as with most things lately it seems.
 
I have seen some Opinel #8 fans here calling that the best inexpensive folder.

My favorite inexpensive folder is also an Opinel, but it’s a #10. . . the slim. . .in olive wood.

Cuts like a razor, locks tight, easy carry, elegant looking, less than $30.00

2378941125.jpg
As with cars, watches, furniture, lighting fixtures, etc., every so often, a gem like this Opinel comes along and proves that superb and elegant design can still be had at a very reasonable price point. Simply beautifully.
 
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