What is the very best folding knife for the least amount of money?

King of the Cheese

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For this thread, I’d like to identify the very BEST folding knife for the LEAST amount of money, to see what offerings are out there that BladeForums participants have found. I know there are a few obvious choices that are heavily reviewed, like the Ontario RAT series… but I’m curious to know what you all have come across and personally used that may not have gone viral or trended in popularity. Feel free to leave the name of the knife and company that makes it in the comments, and a note about what makes it so special. Remember: Less $ is “more”. I’m really wanting to focus on that sub $50 range. The more money you save while still having a fantastic knife, the better.
 
I have seen some Opinel #8 fans here calling that the best inexpensive folder.

My favorite inexpensive folder is also an Opinel, but it’s a #10. . . the slim. . .in olive wood.

Cuts like a razor, locks tight, easy carry, elegant looking, less than $30.00

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Its hard to go wrong with an Opinel of any size. Been using them since 1982 and they do cut like the dickens. The smaller sizes number 5 and down with no lock make great little friction folders for pocket duty. Very very light for their size.

Did I mention that they cut like the dickens?
 
It is where you are using this anecdotal evidence to explain why something that might be dangerous isn't. Because you and your family some sort of super knife weilders.
First, I never claimed that I or my family are or were "super knife welders".

Second, I would be willing to bet that the overwhelming majority of your, his, and everyone else's ancestors over the last 2500 to 2600 years didn't amputate part of their fingers using their folding knives. I would also be willing to bet they used their folding knives a lot "harder" and more often than most people today use theirs.


Another thing you are very wrong - there is no "non-knife" tasks. Period. One can use a knife any way he finds it suitable or needed.
"The right tool for the job."

You could skin a deer with a axe, hatchet, or tomahawk. It wouldn't be easy, or as fast as using a knife, but you could do it.

An axe/hatchet/tomahawk are made for chopping. A maul is made for splitting firewood rounds, not felling a tree. An adze is made for leveling a plank. A flat blade screwdriver for turning flathead - not Phillips - screws, and yes, In am just as guilty as a lot of other folks of angling a flat blade screwdriver to turn a Phillips screw because I was too darn lazy got go get a Phillips screwdriver, and the flat blade was handy. A machete is intended for clearing brush, and some agricultural uses.

I'm not guilty of using my knife blade to turn a flat or Phillips screw, however. I know that is an "excellent way to break the tip.
The vast majority of my knives may are sub $25 full retail, including whatever the sales tax was where I purchases it. (usually 6% to 8 or 9%) That doesn't mean I don't have to take care of them, or can afford to replace them.

You are correct. People can and do use a knife - and pretty much any other tool - for tasks they were not designed for.
Back before self defrosting freezers were invented, who didn't use a screwdriver to knock the frost out when defrosting the refrigerator?
Just because they can use it, doesn't mean it is the right tool for the job at hand. I used my knife in highschool auto shop class, (and later "in the 'real world') to scrape head gaskets, rather than walk the 20 feet or so to the tool room for a scraper.

Knives were originally designed however many housands or millions of years ago to cut and slice. Over the intervening time from the invention of the knife by some guy who's name (if he had one) is long forgotten, invented the knife (stone knives and tools predate "modern" man and Neanderthals, by the way.) to today, the knife is still intended mainly to slice and cut; not pry, turn screws, score a line on steel or other metal, or scrape gaskets, or even strip insulation from a wire (or cut said wire, even if "only" a 24 Guage Cooper multistrand) or coax cable.
The proper tool for that is a wire stripper and wire cutter.
Yes. I have stripped insulation using my knife on up to 4 aught welding cable, and coax, and have cut up to 8 Guage Multi and single strand wire, rather than grab my wire cutter out of my tool pouch. I am just as guilty of abusing my knife as the next guy.

A knife is still for cutting and slicing (which does include whittling emergency tent stakes, hot dog sticks, trap triggers, feather sticks, dripping a sapling or branch (does not require chopping, btw. stress the sapling, make a cut on the outside where stressed, sapling or branch comes down.) for a shelter, and so on.)

A straight razor is intended solely for shaving. Sure! You can use it as a knife. However, even if used only to cut say linen pillow ticking flush with the muzzle of a barrel after pressing the round ball a inch or so into the barrel of your muzzleloader with your short starter, it destroys the cutting edge.
(which is a mystery to me, truth be told. hair is a lot tougher/harder to cut than linen. hair and fingernails are made of the same thing, after all. a Rhino's "horn(s)" are hair, yet I doubt anyone thinks they are soft.)
 
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I'm not guilty of using my knife blade to turn a flat or Phillips screw, however. I know that is an "excellent way to break the tip.
The vast majority of my knives may are sub $25 full retail, including whatever the sales tax was where I purchases it. (usually 6% to 8 or 9%) That doesn't mean I don't have to take care of them, or can afford to replace them.

You are correct. People can and do use a knife - and pretty much any other tool - for tasks they were not designed for.
My friend, I'm glad you didn't take my last post in a wrong way, my last intention would be to sound rude. I'm not going to comment on your retrospect of "Knife use trough the years of human History"
simply because I totally agree with what you did put down.
However, I still think you are responding based on a assumption and I like to correct it if this is the case: I am not in any way against "The right tool for the job", not in any way.
I cannot be against this suggestion simply because if I don't follow it, I'll have mediocre results and I had to go back and correct it, not to mentioned, I have to deal with unhappy customers.
As I mentioned, I have a truck full of above the average right tools for numerous jobs and few more that I made for some specific things that I do more often.
I deal with very odd jobs almost every day and I can't afford to have unhappy customers, I'll lose money, you now...
Now I'll give you perfect example when I'm using my knife instead going the whole 9' with the "right tool for the job":

One of my customers, a physician that thinks he is very handy, decided to replace one of the hinges of an Office door with self closing, spring loaded one. That's fine, he did it but because the new hinge was slightly thicker,
the top part of the door started touching the frame, he started adjusting the other two hinges, the heavy, lead filled door because of the X-ray machine behind it, went off alignment and wasn't able to close... He called me.
The regular "right tool for the job" logic calls for me to come over on the weekend, when there are no patients, to bring my son with me to help with the door, to remove the door, take it outside so we won't mess the office,
to run extension cords, use a metal guide and router, to sink the hinge cut-off about 4mm, bring door back, use special tool to rise it back to where it should be, install it and adjust it. I would charge him about 4 hours worth of my time.

Instead, I came in his Office break at noon, took the hinge off with a screw driver that I brought in my pocket, outlined the hinges cut outs with the tip of my GB1, sliced the extra wood to 2mm on each site,
installed back the hinge, adjusted the door gaps and charged him 2 hours of my time. He was happy because I charged less and didn't have to wait with non-closing X-ray door (liability) till the weekend and
I didn't have to kill my weekend, occupy my son, I didn't make mess in the office, everything took me hardly 15min and his patients didn't even understand that someone was working there.

When I say that I'm using my knives for my work, this is one of the typical cases I deal with almost every day - odd jobs that you can do it "the right way" or save time and do it using your pocket knife...
I am not in any way dismissing "The right tool for the job" thing, simply using it when it makes sense to me, that's it.
I am not against cheap knives, not at all, I love Bucks but they are simply not suitable for my line of work.... In another occasion, let's say I have to deal with few doors, I will do exactly this - I'll take all of them down
and will execute all steps on every door the way the rule goes - using the right tools for the job, it will be quicker and much better done compared to if I use my knife for more than one doors.
But when I have to save myself time and leave my customers happy, I'm using my knives any way I can, I've being doing this so long that can't even think of do it another way.

I apologize for the long read, just wanted to be completely clear why I'm opposing the RTFTJ theory or the "BEST" statement, both are good things to follow but as everything else they have exceptions and my knives are covering
very well those exceptions, I came to specific blade geometry and features, steel specs and so on after years of work and what I'm using works BEST for me, regardless price.

I like Emerson wave not only because it is "tactical" whatever this means. I like it simply because it is extremely convenient for me to have the blade open, when I'm on a ladder, holding piece of AC insulation 12' above the ground,
very prosaic reason.

Price point is another almost nonsense to me if you use your knives for work... It really doesn't mater how much it is if it's "the right tool for your jobs", period.
You get out there and make few bucks more, your customers always pay for your tools as a figure of speech, to me, if I see a design that I find useful and want to try for my job, I'll buy it, regardless the price.
It doesn't mean I am in any way against the cheap knives, nor I look down to the Bucks or such, it only means that if your $12 bucks gas-station knife can open a can of beans ( non-knife task BTW) few times and you are lucky the lock will hold without cut yourself, my Cold Steel Golden Eye will slice trough a box of those before needs any sharpening, that's why I prefer more expensive models.
 
The Kershaw Atmos is a great knife for around $30. It has great fit and finish, action, and looks. I was happy to get G-10 with carbon fiber inlay, 8cr13mov, good clip, and amazing blade to handle ratio for the price. I wouldn’t put it through the same hard use as my Rat 1 or Spyderco tenacious, but it’s not designed for that. All around a great edc.
 
Seems to me I saw some Buck 11
holy cow....y'all are typing novels worth of words......

buck 110 is still under 60 leather sheath included at Walmart online. proof attached.....
View attachment 1700521

still a good deal even at that price.
Seess to me I saw some Buck 110's with ebony scales in Walmart the other day for far less than that.

Edit: Well, not now. That was a few weeks ago.

Hey, awhile back I got six Schrade knives like the Buck 110. Yeah, made in China, but pretty sturdy. $6 each, way better than gas station knives. Gave 5 away. I gave one to a guy who let his wife use it while traveling abd she had it in her carry-on bag at the airport ... TSA got that one. So I gave him another. That's what they are for. Way better than the $3.87 Walmart pocket knives.
 
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Things can be hit or miss under $30. The sweet spot seems to be in the $30-50 range. The clear champion in that range is still WE with their budget brands, Civivi and Sencut. For those who don't know, Sencut has largely taken over with D2 and 9Cr18Mov while Civivi has bumped up to WE's "mid tier". Of course, their 9Cr18Mov still gets the same amazing heat treatment from WE and still punches way above its grade. The Sencut Snap is my pick for best sub-$50 knife of 2021. Otherwise...

Petrified Fish is hard to beat on the low end with some very affordable knives in D2. They seem to do a decent heat treatment with performance on the better end of the Chinese D2 spectrum. Action tends to be great. The only issue I've had with them is that sometimes, their scales can have crisp edges or benefit from some quick filing/sanding. (PF also represents a good alternative for people who have ethical or moral issues with Ganzo. Otherwise, Ganzo does offer original designs in D2 with reasonable build quality at about the same price.)

Ruike has a couple of very inexpensive knives in 14C28N. My only issue with them is quality control. If it is good, it is good. If it isn't, you might need to exchange it.

The Tangram Santa Fe from Kizer still seems to be available. This is a wonderful little knife that can usually be had for around $25. Even if run a little soft, the Acuto 440 easily outperforms most 8Cr13Mov or AUS-8. I gave one of these to a relative a while back and it has been their primary EDC knife for over a year now. I still use mine despite owning knives that cost ten times as much.
 
Good point on the SAKs, forgot about them. That might be the best all-around value.. maybe not “knife” focused but prying, opening cans, and adjusting screws is highly valuable.
It may not be the toughest of knives, but the SAK Hiker has been in my pocket over the past seven years. I sometimes use a Fieldmaster as well. Anyway, it's about the most useful knife you can carry. I literally just used mine to open a bottle.
 
One of my first folders was a Kershaw Amp 3.25. $20 or so, it cut what I needed to cut for a while before I actually got into the hobby and bought more expensive stuff.
Gonna get some crap for this but I’m surprised by all the Buck 110 answers. Great looking classic knife but also it’s a two-handed open/closing brick with no clip and no finger guard. I get why people like em but I don’t think they come close in terms of practicality to modern folders.
 
Sebenza. Still top in my book.

Not sure that it fits the intent of the OP; but I think I agree with the sentiment here. I would much rather have something like a single Sebenza (heirloom quality, might have to purchase used) than 5 or so budget knives that for me at least don’t have much “soul.”
 
The Victorinox Compact. Like them all, but have this in my pocket at all times now. Used the needle to help someone get a SIM-card out the other day, and the pen was a surprise save recently. And cleaned out the Iphone’s charging port with the tooth pick, also a save. Scissors used often. And then opens packages as well as any other folder. Absurdly useful and well built. Since I often use a Mora Companion for $10 for harder tasks I sometimes feel a little bit guilty for having alot of folders :)
 
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Been very happy with my Ruike P662b that I've carried practically everyday for about 6 months now. 14C28N blade that I've only ever needed to strop now and then after initially putting my preferred edge on when I got it. Use it for general EDC tasks. It's nice and slim for EDC, has clean lines, smooth operation, G10 scales, full stainless steel liners, thumb stud, pocket clip and a useful blade length. A real bargain in my book for what they go for. I see no need to get anything more expensive for EDC. I'll happily buy another Ruike knife if need be.

Been enjoying my Coast BX315 for the past 6 months or so as a work and general "if the edge gets a bit damaged, it's OK" knife. Very comfortable rubberized handle, lockback and a useful "work" blade length made from 9Cr18MoV that has an acceptable heat treatment. It comes with a belt sheath, but it sits quite well in your pocket. It's the knife I bring to a BBQ, when I know the beers will be flowing and some questionable knife use will be done, like cutting meat on the grid, or needing to cut your steak on a plate because your mate thinks butter knives are appropriate steak knives.

Opinels will always get my vote as a great bang for buck knife, specifically the No. 9. You can do pretty much everything you ever need a knife to do with the No. 9.

SAK as an easy pocketable multitool. Everyone should own at least one. Great quality at a reasonable price. Not the best blade steel. I wouldn't use it to cut boxes all day long, but as a pocket knife it's perfectly functional.
 
Kershaw Tension. I picked up mine for under $20. Built like a ZT 0350, 3inch blade in 8cr13mov. G10 scales, multi positional pocket clip. You can beat the crap out of it and still buy another one and you won’t pay over $50
 
For this thread, I’d like to identify the very BEST folding knife for the LEAST amount of money, to see what offerings are out there that BladeForums participants have found. I know there are a few obvious choices that are heavily reviewed, like the Ontario RAT series… but I’m curious to know what you all have come across and personally used that may not have gone viral or trended in popularity. Feel free to leave the name of the knife and company that makes it in the comments, and a note about what makes it so special. Remember: Less $ is “more”. I’m really wanting to focus on that sub $50 range. The more money you save while still having a fantastic knife, the better.
If you are looking for the best folder knife for money ! is possible now in US to found the OPINEL series produced in France , they are using the Sandvik 12C27M steel for the all range of knives since more than 15 year. The prices can varies between 10 to 30 USD following the model and size of the blade, but the blade quality still the same. I think they have now open an office in Chicago.

Look also for the MORA KNIVES from SWEDEN with Sandvik 12C27 or Sandvik 14C28N, not folder knives but fantastic quality for money not more than 20 USD. Look also for hunting knives from EKA still with Sandvik 12C27 more expensives but very nice design and qulaity finish.

All's theses companies like many others are focus on corrosion resistance, edge retention, cut quality and qualified material after extensive tests following the CATRA methodology.
 
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