What kind of protection do you use ?

Ken44

Ken44

Joined
Jun 29, 2005
Messages
16,379
What do you use to protect your INFI ? I've just got my first few recently and would like to know what you Hogs use.
I put Flitz on a highly polished bolster of a non busse custom last week and it left some very, very faint swirls[if really looking].
I have other oils, but know you Hogs will know what's best. Thanks

Edit-sorry, just noticed similar post below.
 
I put some ballistol oil on all my Busses:thumbup:

Never had any problems with my satins.
 
A 1000 lb gun vault. other than that...all my busses' have that funny coating on them....
 
Ken44 said:
What do you use to protect your INFI ? I've just got my first few recently and would like to know what you Hogs use.
I put Flitz on a highly polished bolster of a non busse custom last week and it left some very, very faint swirls[if really looking].
I have other oils, but know you Hogs will know what's best. Thanks

Edit-sorry, just noticed similar post below.
Click to expand...

Isn't flitz a metal polish? that makes it an abrasive, not a metal protectant. . .
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
Isn't flitz a metal polish? that makes it an abrasive, not a metal protectant. . .
Click to expand...

Flitz is a polish and protectant. I had a cold steel master hunter years ago, the papers with said to use Flitz on there carbon V. It did not put scratches on it or other satin blades. Only the high polished one had faint swirls. So it is mild abrasive and am scared to try on INFI.

Rat, I will not take the chance on INFI. Abrasive just does not sound right to put on INFI does it. Thanks
 
Flitz is a metal polish. It is abrasive. Speaking of CS Master Hunters in Carbon V, I once field dressed a deer with one, got home, and thought I'd lost my knife. Searched and searched. Finally found it under my seat where it had gotten kicked out of sight. Still a bit bloody. Very stained where the blood dried. I used Flitz, a Dremel tool, and one of the little buffing wheels to restore the finish. Looked great when I finished buffing/polishing. But I'm sure I removed a miniscule amount of metal in the process.

I like the Marine Tuff-Glide. Seems to leave more of a film than the regular stuff, but wipes off just fine when you break out a knife and want to use it.

CLP is also good stuff.
 
Guyon said:
Flitz is a metal polish. It is abrasive. Speaking of CS Master Hunters in Carbon V, I once field dressed a deer with one, got home, and thought I'd lost my knife. Searched and searched. Finally found it under my seat where it had gotten kicked out of sight. Still a bit bloody. Very stained where the blood dried. I used Flitz, a Dremel tool, and one of the little buffing wheels to restore the finish. Looked great when I finished buffing/polishing. But I'm sure I removed a miniscule amount of metal in the process.

I like the Marine Tuff-Glide. Seems to leave more of a film than the regular stuff, but wipes off just fine when you break out a knife and want to use it.

CLP is also good stuff.
Click to expand...

THe master hunter I spoke of never stained with me, but kept coated with flitz. I sold it to a friend, went by a few days later and he had it stuck in deer roast, told him to take it out or it would be black. He left it in there overnight and black it was. The CLP is great, bought a gallon years ago for my guns but it attracts a little lint on my knives
I have some Marine tuff-glide but have not tried. Forgot I had it, thanks. Think it will be dryer than CLP.
 
lanzo said:
Trojan snugg fit here :grumpy:
Click to expand...

Even with the Magnums, you have to pre-stretch them before you actually call them up for duty.

Ken44 said:
THe master hunter I spoke of never stained with me, but kept coated with flitz.
Click to expand...

Mine stained because I left it unattended for so long. I had sort-of half wiped it off before dragging the deer out with the intention of cleaning it better when I got back to the truck. Half-a-mile later, after pulling that deer up and down three hills, cleaning the knife was the last thing on my mind. Somehow, it got bumped under my seat. I probably took it off my belt, stuck it on the hump in the floor of my truck, and it slid under there. Anyway, it was there overnight with some blood on the blade.

Came out pretty easily with the Flitz though. Good stuff. Best thing for removing light rust spots on guns/knives.
 
I left a Straight Steel Heart in it's sheath, a High Desert Low ride, in a tool box in the back of my truck, that I was at the time using to haul Travel trailers cross country for about two years with no oil, just to see how it went, the knife got darker, sort of black on the uncoated parts of the handle, that was all.

It now sits in the Safe, having been wiped with either WD-40 or CLP once, maybe 3 or 4 years ago, I pull it out once in a while to throw at trees, no need to oil it again so far.

I have a few Satin Busse knives that I wipe off carefully with a micro-fiber cloth any time they het touched by Human Hands, like the Back and handle of the original Game Warden I pulled out last week while thinking about posting a picture, no oil, just a blue micro fiber cloth.

Every few years I wipe down the Fancy Busse Knives with what ever spray oil is handy at the time then wipe them pretty much dry with the same Micro-Fiber cloth mentioned.

That is all.
 
I've used Flitz as well it seems to work well. Flitz has many products, I used the gun wax
GW02734lge.jpg

http://www.flitz.com/gun_wax.html
 
I use CorrosionX aerosol in the red can. If you have rust on the blade somewhere, that stuff will actually get under the rust and you can then wipe it off. I have some kind of mutant gene that makes me rust everything I touch. It's so aggressive that WD-40, Breakfree, and pretty much all the other protectant/lubricants are useless. So far, CorrosionX is the only thing that works for me. They make a heavy duty formula, also, that's good if you need a heavy film on something. For example, extended salt water duty.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top