What knives DON'T work for you?

These knives aren't flawed, they just didn't really work for my particular usage habits:

Ontario USAF pilot's knife - guards were in the way, never could get it sharp enough.


Becker BK-10 Crewman - awesome, excellent knife, but total overkill for my needs.

LM Surge - Too bulky and gimicky.
 
I have had so many I don't remember them all. The last is a Busse Jackhammer. Just not for me. Now my meaner street is a different story. I carry and use it every day.
 
With the exception of Maybe one thick chopper type knife, anything over 1/8 thick is not of much real use. I guess the Short Kabar was a bit of a disappointment to me. In my hands, it just didn't do anything really well.:confused:
 
One note first off. A lot of the criticisms seem to come from trying to apply a knife to a job other than it was designed to do. Bushcrafty knives suck as fighting knives, and fighting knives suck at bushcrafting tasks. However, you can use either type for either application. The other problem I see is a lot of people don't like a knife, or say it won't do [X], because they want the tool to do the job the way they want, rather than learn to use the tool. I'm just saying this because I was guilty of both things for a long time. Now, if something doesn't work the way I want it to, I ask "what can I change about how I do things to work the way the tool wants to?".

You might be surprised at how well that works out. Sometimes it's a small change that's required in your way of doing things, or in the tool itself to get it to work. For instance, Busse gets a lot of flak for his grinds. Well, the obtuse, "toothy" edge is exactly what you want if you have to use your knife as a breaching tool/rescue tool, and cut a lot of nylon strapping, as you might have to do if you're in the military, an LEO or a SAR member. Like someone pointed out, it's "Busse Combat", not "Busse Bushcraft". However, I've done nothing more than sharpen some of the thicker Busses with a fine stone and then strop the edge -- maintaining the factory edge geometry, and they sail through wood now. They even cut meat like a laser. Such a small change.

Now to pretend this post is on topic ;). . .
I dislike tiny handles on knives. I see no point to a handle that I can only get two or three fingers on.
I don't like skeletonized handles or "neck knives". I understand why they are that way, but for me, it's too much compromise on ease of use for too little in weight and bulk savings.
I don't particularly like big choils, but do like a sharpening notch (preferrably round so it doesn't create stress risers).
 
For me the BRKT Bravo1 comes to mind; the thumb ramp just interfered with some of the grips I use.

Unlike some I actually like a choil on my knife, but if you are going to put a choil on a knife it needs to be useable. That means it has to be big enough for your finger to fit in (The classic bad example of this was the SwampRat HRLM). Second, the spine of the knife must be flat or nearly so, otherwise you can't comfortably choke up and put any pressure on the edge. If you can't comfortably choke up, then it is a waste to have a choil stealing edge from the blade. The Busse BATAC has a pointed hump on the spine above the choil and makes choking up uncomfortable IMO. On the otherhand, the choil on relatively big knives like the Busse Straight Handled Steel Heart or SFNO and the Ranger RD series allows these bigger knives to still perform more delicate tasks comfortably.

As a general feature I don't trust knives without at least a bottom guard, and I have a paranoia about stick tangs.
 
I have had a RAT 3 and 4 and neither of them have worked for me. A Busse Active Duty was not my cup of tea either BUT, my new Game Warden is 10 times the knife IMO and totally my cup of tea:thumbup:
I love choils if they fit your finger but dislike the ones there for sharpening as in the aformentioned Busse' but I am dealing with it on the Game Warden:)
Dull knives from the factory/maker:thumbdn:
 
Emersons. I love the designs but I don't have much love for the blade geometry, and I've felt the liners were too thin on every one I've owned . It's my understanding that they've thickened the liners since I last bought one. It's kind of strange they turn me off like they do because I have no complaints at all with my old BM CQC7.
 
Ooph, long list for me. Ontario USAF survival knife, the busse's I've used, kabar fighters, LM's for the woods, rat7, rc4 (handles are much too thin), old model koster bushcraft. Some more may pop into my head later. Basically, a knife should (a) have excellent geometry for the general tasks at hand (so no teensy bevels with huge shoulders) and (b) be purpose built for comfort durng extended use. Anything else isn't worth procuring/keeping.
 
One note first off. A lot of the criticisms seem to come from trying to apply a knife to a job other than it was designed to do.


Agreed. My USAF knife is probably great for punching one's way out of a downed aircraft, and my Becker for SHTF survival conditions, but niether was ideal for my own types of hiking and camping use. Part of the fun of knife knutdom is your ever-evolving tastes and the learning process of what is useful and practical for you.
 
Thin handles. They are a pain. I have wide hands and like the feel of a bigger, thicker handle. (does that make me a chubby chaser?).
 
I guess mainly I have a problem with knives that the handle far outweighs the blade...for example the Gerber LMFII...I loved the original LMF...minus the saw teeth.
 
For me personally...

I'm not a fan of wide blades. When I first got into knives, I loved the look of all the wide blades like nessmucks and Busse etc...Then I started gathering knives and using them and realized that I really like a narrower blade for woodcraft. It makes short controlled cuts much easier. I can also make shallow scooping cuts, whereas the sides of the blade would interfere on a wider blade.

I agree on the uncomfortable handle deal-What up with that?

Differential heat treat doesn't do it for me...With what we know about metalurgy these days, I really don't see the need. I have in fact seen quite a bit of evidence that differential hardening does more harm than good in terms of flexibility and shock absorbtion. Differential hardening also means that the potential life of the blade is cut in about half (or about 3/4 in some blades I've seen). With a through hardened blade, the knife can be reground/back beveled until there is simply not enough metal left to make it worth using. With a differential tempered blade, the metal is only going to be hard enough to hold an edge back to the temper line...after that, it would need to be re-heat treated to continue being useful.

Overly thick edges don't really bother me that much...They give me plenty of room to do exactly what I want to the blade. I would rather it be too thick so I can trim it down instead of having to reduce the width of the blade to get the edge thick enough.

Another thing that bothers me, but that I don't see all that often, is a choil that does not include the cutting edge. Kinda hard to explain in writing... The purpose of a well designed choil, as I see it, is to allow the entire edge to be sharpened without hassle. When a choil is placed so that the sharpened edge doesn't even touch it, then the choil is negated and is wasting space...in my opinion at least.

Let's see if this drawing can make sense: The left side (straight lines) is the handle side. The hat (^) is the small, nicely done choil. The tildes (~) are the cutting edge. We see that the. The first drawing is the well done one, where the choil is effective for making sharpening easier. The second one is badly done, where the choil does nothing but take up space.

---^~~~~~
---^--~~~~~
 
SAK's

It isn't because they suck, because I will be the first to admit, they are nice knives. I just can't get into them. I have had a few and gave every one of them away. Now I own none and am not likely to buy another.

By comparison I LOVE my Air Force Pilots Survival Knife and several posters here don't seem to like them as a primary. Just goes to show you how diverse we are and probably why we get along so well on this board. Recognizing that just because something isn't your cup of tea doesn't make it bad, just different.

Well maybe I will give one of those Trekkers atry before I give up. LOL
 
I have been busy at work and have not been as active on the board.

Had to lay a few people off. Part of my job I hate the most.

Working my A$$ off trying to make things work so I can hire them back soon. Told my Boss I'll take a cut to get a few back in.
 
Awesome. I hope you can get em workin soon...

Tough times for people right now....Keep at it bro.
 
The Izula didnt really work for me. Too small in the handle, Bigger Busses never cut it either, no matter how much I wanted em to. Folding knives either. I just do better with a small fixed. Moras, a big nope too.
 
SAK's

It isn't because they suck, because I will be the first to admit, they are nice knives. I just can't get into them. I have had a few and gave every one of them away. Now I own none and am not likely to buy another.

By comparison I LOVE my Air Force Pilots Survival Knife and several posters here don't seem to like them as a primary. Just goes to show you how diverse we are and probably why we get along so well on this board. Recognizing that just because something isn't your cup of tea doesn't make it bad, just different.

Well maybe I will give one of those Trekkers atry before I give up. LOL


Ironically, I find SAKs and Multitools the hands-down, most useful knives for my own uses and habits. If I could keep only one, it would be a SAK or a multi. I sold my USAF knife for $5 bucks at a community tag sale last summer. If I had known of you then, I would've just mailed it to you!:D
 
Wait! That's where I got mine for $5 bucks! Hahaha! Just kidding.

I do use a multi tool, SOG Paratool to be exact and I like it, but it stays in my truck and I take it in my hunting pack. I don't carry it 24/7
 
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