what oil do you guys use on your damascus..

Status
Not open for further replies.
carnuba wax, eh? I'm going to get me some of that and put it on my work knives. When it's pissing rain, my carbon cutters develop rust in about 10 minutes. I usually use Finish Line bicycle chain oil, but hacking wet salal, ferns and salmonberry removes that stuff pretty quick.
Thanks for the tip, Ed!:thumbup:
 
Most the suggestions above will work. If you're not going to be able to repeat the operation for many months, I would use Tuff Cloth.

Mineral / camelia oil is used on Jpz blades, but most of those are kept in tight scabbards that slow down air circulation by a huge amount. But I still use it for blades I'm going to check on every once in a while. If you use oil, a few drops on a kleenex is all it takes. Anything more and you're going to get accumulations.
 
I use camelia oil on the blades and mineral oil for the stag and ivory handles.

Ed's recommendation as to the benefits of wax are all correct, but I have found it a bit difficult to apply evenly on deeply etched damascus. It can also take the edge off the "shimmer" effect as well, which a light coat of oil seems to actually enhance.

I think I might want to try it out on a big carbon user, though.

Roger
 
A question for the Tuf Cloth users. I really like using the Tuf Cloth on all-metal folders but have hesitated on using it on fixed blades with natural handles. If you are going to protect an exposed tang, you will necessarily get it (and the mineral spirit solvent) on your handles.

Any issues with that? Do you just wipe down the whole knife, handle and all?
 
I see no one threw this one out there,but I always use Hoppes#9

It's all I use on my knives/damascus/ss/carbon steel,& firearms.

Maybe I'm behind the times.:o
 
Barty said:
A question for the Tuf Cloth users. I really like using the Tuf Cloth on all-metal folders but have hesitated on using it on fixed blades with natural handles. If you are going to protect an exposed tang, you will necessarily get it (and the mineral spirit solvent) on your handles.
Click to expand...

I don't collect ivory handled knives, but the wood, stag and pearl pieces that I have show no problems with the Tuf Cloth use, wipe it down!!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Last edited:
RogerP said:
I use camelia oil on the blades and mineral oil for the stag and ivory handles.

Ed's recommendation as to the benefits of wax are all correct, but I have found it a bit difficult to apply evenly on deeply etched damascus. It can also take the edge off the "shimmer" effect as well, which a light coat of oil seems to actually enhance.

I think I might want to try it out on a big carbon user, though.

Roger
Click to expand...

I have also found waxes (even rem wax) on some but not all damascus steels, will leave a haze or as Roger stated take the edge off the shimmer.

Roger I'm curious, why do you not use the camellia oil on handle material as well? I like it on ivory and stag over mineral oil for the same reasons I prefer it for the blades.

I also agree that wax is definitely the way to go on a user blade.
 
Kevin - simply a matter of cost and volume. The camelia oil, while not a lot of money in absolute terms, is a lot more expensive than mineral oil and is also harder to source. As you know, with this product a little goes a long way. I bought a small bottle from Bladegallery a couple years ago and it is still half full. A thin, even coat is all you need.

With the handles, I am a LOT more liberal with the use of oil. I don't just wipe them down, but actually immerse the entire handle for 24 hrs, twice a year. Since we are mostly talking bowie handles here, this requires a medium sized ice cream keg of oil for the immersion. Using mineral oil, it's just a short hop to the corner drug store and a couple bucks to replenish when needed.

Roger
 
Lorien said:
carnuba wax, eh? I'm going to get me some of that and put it on my work knives. When it's pissing rain, my carbon cutters develop rust in about 10 minutes.
Click to expand...

I hope to be putting another solution to the test next weekend when I head over to Dan Farr's place - a black powder coated carbon steel chopper. :thumbup:

Roger
 
RogerP said:
Kevin - simply a matter of cost and volume. The camelia oil, while not a lot of money in absolute terms, is a lot more expensive than mineral oil and is also harder to source. As you know, with this product a little goes a long way. I bought a small bottle from Bladegallery a couple years ago and it is still half full. A thin, even coat is all you need.

With the handles, I am a LOT more liberal with the use of oil. I don't just wipe them down, but actually immerse the entire handle for 24 hrs, twice a year. Since we are mostly talking bowie handles here, this requires a medium sized ice cream keg of oil for the immersion. Using mineral oil, it's just a short hop to the corner drug store and a couple bucks to replenish when needed.

Roger
Click to expand...

Makes perfectly good sense. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Roger, no matter how hard I try, I cannot get myself to like coatings on my blades! I know that it's practical, but... I just can't do it.

With that being said, I have found bbq paint to work really well and it's way cheaper than a baked on paint.
 
Just to re-enforce some thoughts on the wax.....the haze and reducing the "shimmer" are the specific reasons I don't like Ren Wax. The wax I mentioned does not exhibit those characteristics. I like the Mother's wax so well that for the past few years I have been using it on all my firearms rather than oil...(the internal still get a dab of grease) it works especially well on those that see a lot of use, like my elk rifle and waterfowl gun.
 
Ed Caffrey said:
Just to re-enforce some thoughts on the wax.....the haze and reducing the "shimmer" are the specific reasons I don't like Ren Wax. The wax I mentioned does not exhibit those characteristics. I like the Mother's wax so well that for the past few years I have been using it on all my firearms rather than oil...(the internal still get a dab of grease) it works especially well on those that see a lot of use, like my elk rifle and waterfowl gun.
Click to expand...

You are right Ed, I have never used Mother's on knife blades. Did use it successfully on classic cars before I switched to Mequiars products.

Actually still have some in the garage and will try it.
 
Don't laugh :cool: I used clove oil :D I also used olive oil :D Sometimes I used mixed of clove oil and olive oil :D

laugh.gif


Mohd.
 
All of the knives I build get a good coat of Mothers wax. I have to give Ed the credit!! He got me started on it about 4 years ago. It not only protects everything, but it cleans the steel even after I have tried to get it as clean as I can!! A little goes a long way. I have had the same can since I started using it and there is still a lot in there!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top