what should a busse knive get from this kind of abusing ?

the way i did that chopping with bare hand is more hammful to the edge and more easliy prone to make chippings , cause the forces of chopping is uneven and unsteady , do you guys think so ?

The smaller notches in the angle iron are from swings, the deeper ones were 'assisted' ;)

The only reason I stopped with the NMFBM was that while the blade was deep in the steel I hit it a bit off center, and it didn't feel good, so I stopped. That, and break was over. With the TG, I stopped because I hit the scale so I began wavering on my swings a bit, and ended up hitting my hand, so, again, called it quits, as I figured the weakest part of the knife was through, and undamaged, so my point (:)) was proven.
 
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Honestly I wouldn't say the OP's knife failed in any way. The knife wasn't any kind of super steel and yet he tried to hammer it through mild steel and it didnt break.

I'd like to know what brand and model it is - it really did pretty well.

Otoh, I remember a crazy guy with a Scrapyard knife who had damaged it banging it through steel pipe. It turned out he had been doing this for ***days*** (something bad had happened in his life and it was way of dealing with stress.) In the end the knife was too messed up to go on - but it took literally a couple of days of this craziness, and the knife was replaced (but people tried to get him to stop with the pipe murder and see a shrink or talk to friends or something.) Of course, "pipe" can mean of different things, but this is still impressive.
 
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I'd like to know what brand and model it is - it really did pretty well.

Otoh, I remember a crazy guy with a Scrapyard knife who had damaged it banging it through steel pipe. It turned out he had been doing this for ***days*** (something bad had happened in his life and it was way of dealing with stress.) In the end the knife was too messed up to go on - but it took literally a couple of days of this craziness, and the knife was replaced (but people tried to get him to stop with the pipe murder and see a shrink or talk to friends or something.) Of course, "pipe" can mean of different things, but this is still impressive.

this is a no-name knife, i had been chopping through with cold steel gi tanto , and get minmal damages on the edge , and do not as you side above that it just cost me half an hour laboring , man.

reall cool.

ps: do you have any pics of that wounded sy knife?
 
this is a no-name knife, i had been chopping through with cold steel gi tanto , and get minmal damages on the edge , and do not as you side above that it just cost me half an hour laboring , man.

reall cool.

ps: do you have any pics of that wounded sy knife?


According to a counterfeit site it is a Kevin John brand knife.

Kevin John is a bogus brand used by knife counterfeiters, under the Kevin John brand I can buy -

Hinderer branded XM-18,
CRK branded Sebenza,
CRK branded Zaan,
CRK branded Ti-lock,
Various branded Striders, fixed and folding.
Todd Begg bodega.
Rockstead branded, made in Japan stamped folders.
Various Boker branded blades,
TAD gear branded knives and designs,
United Cutlery branded blades,
Lone Wolf braned folders,
Hest DPX,
etc
etc etc

So, in short this is made in the same factory by the same people ripping off knife makers over the globe but chiefly the US.
 
hi, you all.

i use my knife chop into mild steel , and get chippings

i brought it from a local seller , and i was told that it was designed as a survival tool , i do not know the toughness of it , so i did some chopping into mild steel (L-bar for construction use), and i get what you see above.

my Q here are :
1. this is a good/bad sign ? i do not have any references to judge and get my own conculsion.
2. how about infi could react in this situation?
3.do you have expriences like this ? sharing will be appreciated.

1. I think it is good, if you look at the available photos, it is not really chipping you experienced, but rather deformation via bending or rolling. That is better IMO then a clean break in any knife.

However, there are some questions as to:

1. What steel is it?
2. Quality of the heat treat
3. Thickness/thinness of the primary grind, what type of grind is it, flat, hollow, convex etc. This has been mentioned in later posts in this thread:

This is pretty much just a test of edge geometry, I wouldn't bother roughing up a Busse just to see what happens since we already know what happens.
If the edge geometry on the Busse is similar to the first knife, it will perform similarly. If its edge is thicker, it will do better. Really all you'll be doing is removing a bunch of steel off the knife to set up the edge for cutting steel (which is a legitimate job that many tools must perform, e.g. bolt cutters), and then once you want to cut something else you'll want to adjust the geometry again (bolt cutters perform very poorly in the kitchen, or at making fuzz sticks, or chopping into wood).
If you want to test shock resistance go baton some logs for a campfire, that will put very little wear on the knife, but is well known to destroy knives that aren't designed to handle shock.

However you feel it is not valid.

that is nothing you have mentioned geometry , look at the wounds that all the way down from tip to guard , it tears out Seriously ,cause from repeating impact, and that is a classical sign of stainless steel wounds , man. i had chopping throgh a one inch iron tube , with cold steel gi tanto that made of 1055 carbon steel , and do not get big chipping like this . and the edge angle on gi tanto is very very thin.

The area you mentioned is difficult to see if the edge was disformed or chipped, better photos will tell a lot more.

My friend has a GI Tanto. If you feel that is thin...then it is your opinion, I believe it is still a damn thick knife and with 1055 being used it and they do pretty good heat treat it should perform better.

CS machetes and their Kukri is made by a South African Company Lasher Tools. Though their products can come with heavy burrs and low initial sharpness, they perform well once you remove those issues, however in the Agricultural areas they have proven that 1055 is a tough steel.

A quick search of the forums on 1055

1055-Carbon-quality

Toughness can be defined as:

Toughness
- Simple explanation: Ability to resist chipping or breakage.
In depth: Toughness is controlled by amount of carbon in solution, the hardness the steel is heat treated to, the carbide size and volume, and the other alloy in solution. High amounts of chromium weaken grain boundaries (though generally carbide size and volume is the limiting factor as far as toughness in stainless steels). Nickel and silicon in moderate amounts increase toughness without effecting strength. Carbide size and volume are probably the greatest controlling factor for toughness. (Auth. Larrin Thomas)

Source: Z Knives

Toughness

Toughness is the resistance of the knife to cracking. Cracks always start at a weak point in the steel, such as an inclusion or a large primary carbide. So toughness is enhanced by a homogeneous structure that is free from impurities and large carbides. A fine-carbide steel grade will always have higher toughness than a coarse-carbide grade with a given hardness. Toughness is vital for professional and military knives.

SANDVIK knife-steel-knowledge/

Remember, you can have a though steel, but remember, heat treat and geometry is still important to the overall performance.

Not by Busse. Some crazy dudes working there!

I would expect Infi at similar grind angle and edge thickness to do better. Less chipping, more rolling. Infi will still take edge damage though. Normally you don't see as much edge tear out, or chipping.


Infi is not magical. It is simply a great steel for taking abuse.





Trust me, Infi would not be shaving sharp after that. Like I said, it is not magic.

Very wise words. INFI is not magic, but BUSSE does exceptional heat treat regardless of what steel seems to end up in their possession. Heat treat is key.


According to a counterfeit site it is a Kevin John brand knife.

Kevin John is a bogus brand used by knife counterfeiters, under the Kevin John brand I can buy -



So, in short this is made in the same factory by the same people ripping off knife makers over the globe but chiefly the US.

And with that post brings up the question again of the quality of heat treatment and if the mentioned steel is even being used.
 
the way i did that chopping with bare hand is more hammful to the edge and more easliy prone to make chippings , cause the forces of chopping is uneven and unsteady , do you guys think so ?

Yes. Repeated chopping like that will cause more chipping and tear out. If you use a baton and hammer it through, it will suffer less (of course, you might also bust a regular knife at the spine).


There was a bunch of pictures of a guy cutting all the way through a logging chain! He lost a piece of the edge from catching in a cut on the chain, and lateral tear out.
 
Yes. Repeated chopping like that will cause more chipping and tear out. If you use a baton and hammer it through, it will suffer less (of course, you might also bust a regular knife at the spine).


There was a bunch of pictures of a guy cutting all the way through a logging chain! He lost a piece of the edge from catching in a cut on the chain, and lateral tear out.

that is right , man. i am sorry for my poor language , not a english speaker.
 
i found a vid on youtube , very cool.

my Curiosity was satisfied , SR101 did very well on steel biting , definitly better what i got .

[video=youtube;B4NEkK-ehdo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4NEkK-ehdo&feature=endscreen&NR=1[/video]
 
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