what should I buy for sharpening?

The_Guide said:
If you are interested in freehand sharpening, I strongly recommend picking up Murray Carter's DVD's: Intro to Sharpening, and Advanced Blade Sharpening. They are full of really good info.

I also recommend hanging out at the Keeping Sharp section at knifeforums.
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No need to anywhere else for advice on how to sharpen, this forum has a ton of threads, thousands of pages worth of information from every perspective. Why would you suggest otherwise?
 
To the original poster. I sharpened my RMD with a dmt duofold red and blue. Use the fine side and watch your angle maybe take a sharpy and color the edge with it to make sure your sharpening where you want. The dmt works just fine with RMD's the strop it on a piece of leather with some metal polish if you want to. Those two simple steps will get you the edge your wanting.

cricket
 
FWIW, I sharpen steels like ZDP-189 (mid 60s rc) on japanese water stones all the time. Hard steels are by no means impossible to sharpen on water stones, and nor do they seem to "chew the stone up."

I use Chosera bench stones, King water stones (even the VERY soft high grit stones). Never had a problem.
 
if you want to get something that can sharpen all of your knives in a few minutes no matter what the steel, check out the paper wheels.
 
RevDevil said:
No need to anywhere else for advice on how to sharpen, this forum has a ton of threads, thousands of pages worth of information from every perspective. Why would you suggest otherwise?
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because Im asking for information- frankly why the hell wouldnt he give me MORE information? As well, why the hell would you harp on the guy for giving someone else information on a forum? Hes a good guy and gave me some useful info, cant say the same for you.

Thanks cricket, Richard, Crimson. Ill probably pick up a king stone and get myself a duofold down the line. much appreciated and good to know!
 
ASharpCanadian said:
because Im asking for information- frankly why the hell wouldnt he give me MORE information? As well, why the hell would you harp on the guy for giving someone else information on a forum? Hes a good guy and gave me some useful info, cant say the same for you.

Thanks cricket, Richard, Crimson. Ill probably pick up a king stone and get myself a duofold down the line. much appreciated and good to know!
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You aren't very sharp are you? I was saying, with a forum FULL ON dedicated to sharpening, why send people to OTHER forums?
 
ASharpCanadian said:
because Im asking for information- frankly why the hell wouldnt he give me MORE information? As well, why the hell would you harp on the guy for giving someone else information on a forum? Hes a good guy and gave me some useful info, cant say the same for you.

Thanks cricket, Richard, Crimson. Ill probably pick up a king stone and get myself a duofold down the line. much appreciated and good to know!
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Well Rev Dev is a good guy. He was iterating that you search some threads in this forum, for everything has been explored from every possible angle for the last 5 to 10 yrs. on this forum, so Rev's advice is sound and provable. If you want to go to another forum go ahead, but I try not to affirm nor denigrate other knife forums while on BF. It puts you in the position of shill whether you are a shill or not.

The main point of sharpening (no pun intended) is to realize that you are spending your LEISURE time doing a task that is supposed to bring joy, not frustration, so keep it in context, and enjoy the journey. I have been to "Hair Whittlin' Sharp ground before, but I cannot maintain that high ground and now enjoy shaving sharp and content with it. It is doable for this season of my life.
 
Grain size is changed in heat treat, and it can be increased or decreased quickly and fairly easily (a little too easy to blow it up) The only thing I can think PR is trying to say is that carbide size is affected in the melt, that is more correct. It would be entirely pointless to produce 52100 with PM, the carbide size and distribution is already finer than what PM produces. 52100 is also hardly wear resistant when discussed in the company of PM steels produced for plastics molding, which is mostly what we see. It's a fine steel, but 1% chromium isn't burning up the charts with carbide content.

You would go to other forums for more information. This is a somewhat active forum, but there is a wealth of info outside of BF. Woodworkers, straight razor shavers, foodies and chefs, professional sharpeners, stone retailers, stone miners, synthetic stone makers, sharpening system developers, etc. - they post in a lot of places other than here. But, I wouldn't worry about that info quite yet. Your main concern right now, if you want to freehand, is to just work on technique. Technique is easy, hold a consistent angle and don't go too fast.

I personally would start with diamonds. It eliminates worrying about having a strong enough abrasive, keeping the stone flat, loading up, mud usage, soaking, oil vs water, chips and cracks, etc. A splash of water and away you go. Rinse it off if there's a ton of swarf.

Knifenut is right about diamonds not being optimum for all steels, but he's working at a level well beyond where you are. If you just want a sharp edge for regular use, a coarse and fine pair of diamond plates ought to do it. You can progress beyond them later. A little cheaper would be some Norton Crystalon or India stones.
 
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