What to do with Airman Sheath cord?

Samael, I've been thinking of ordering a 15 myself, but couldn't conceptualize options that would make it worth my while to wait that long. For example, I like the 15 I posted a picture of here, and another 15 I saw a while back with a BP handle, but I don't go crazy over most traditional 15s. Do you have a pic anywhere of what yours will look like? Your set of options might motivate me enough to order one. Thanks
 
Samael said:
Just for shits and giggles, I just ordered a 15 from the shop today. BCP grind (top edge sharpened), N/S squared single hilt, N/S butt cap, stag w/finger grips, and all black spacers. It'll be a beauty too . . . Five years from now. Argh!
Click to expand...

Also, if you can explain your options to me, and give me a run down of available options on the 15, I would appreciate that. My only paper catalog is from a few years ago, and I've heard things have changed a little bit. Something about a limit on options now, but maybe some options have changed as well. Thanks
 
A photo. Yeah, right - don't I wish. As Shel explained earlier, the permutations of all the different options are almost endless. To the best of my knowledge, there is no such animal as the knife I just ordered in existence. Which, coincidentally, would also put it in that $700-$750 range if I had it in my hands today.

In response to your second post, which came in while I was typing this:

"BCP": The relatively obscure "Bowie Clip Point" grind, giving the blade a fairly pronounced clip point, as opposed to the "modified" clip point usually found on 15s. As I noted earlier, yours doesn't have the standard grind either. Google the Buxton Fighter if you want to see what this looks like.

"Sharpened top edge" just means that the top bevel is sharpened.

N/S: Just Randall-groupie shorthand for nickel-silver.

"Squared single hilt": It gets interesting here. Despite the fact that squared single hilts are shown in the catalog, rounded ones are standard unless otherwise specified.

Presumably you know what stag and finger grips are.

Spacers: Somehow spacers are an obscure area only known to the cogniscenti, and they shouldn't be. When you order a knife from the shop, you can pay an extra $10 and get spacers other than the traditional red, white and blue ones. Available other combinations (and don't quote me on this) are all black (no extra charge), aluminum/black, and brass/black. These would not be available on a standard 15 with a micarta handle. However, with a CDT (cut-down tang) knife, such as the one I ordered, it is an option.

And yes, it's confusing. No, none of this is in the catalog. Don't ask me why not. You've kinda got to learn it the hard way. Welcome to the Wonderful World of Randalls.
 
OK, thanks, Samael. Would yours look a little like this? (Click on pic below)

57fe_1.JPG

BTW, what options would you recommend for my particular taste. I like, as I mentioned, the Solingen fighter that I own, which I think is a CDT, and I like BP handles. I don't like brass. I don't know if straight vs curved guard matters that much to me. O1 vs stainless might be more important to me, as I hear O1 takes a better edge.

I owned a Randall Buxton fighter once, but it was years ago and I don't remember the grind completely. I will Google it though.

Thank you, guys, for your opinions on the rarity and the value of my SF. That helps me decide what to do with it. I'm going to take some time to think it over.

Samael--what sheath did you get with it?
 
Whoa. Twenty questions here. OK, let's see. If you don't like brass, nickel-silver is your only other option. But it's significantly more expensive.

Your knife is NOT a CDT. For most purposes, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference whether it is or isn't, but the "stock" 15s have a wider tang, which some would argue makes it more sturdy.

Stainless versus carbon steel. Well. We could go on all night about that. We average 13% humidity here, so rust is not an issue. In that case, yes, the 01 steel is better. If you're in a place where rust IS a factor, I'd look pretty hard at stainless. (Little-known factoid: It's forged 440B, which doesn't suck.)

And no, your photo looks nothing like the knife I ordered.
 
Upon a re-read of your post, it seems I forgot to mention that I got the same model C sheath you have.
 
Thanks, man, sorry for all the questions. By wider tang (on the non-CDTs), do you mean taller or longer?
 
Bali,

Here are some links that may help...Model #14 knives and threads also apply, as the options are pretty interchangeable.

1. http://www.knifetalkforums.com/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=38033&an=0&page=0#38033

2. Treeman Knives - Sold knives http://www.treemanknives.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=67

3. Spaceport Cutlery - Sold knives http://www.spaceportcutlery.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=40

4. Model of the week thread - Knifeforums.com http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/828668/

5. And a little SF info was found here - http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/373075/

Lots of options, hope that helps - and again, if you discover that you're looking for a specifically configured knife, I'll find it for you - contingent on your selling or trading me your SF for the other...

p.s. I found a little PI handmade balisong in one of my trading stock boxes last night, I'd add that to the mix along with the book and the aforementioned (potential) cash offer - but that's it, as high as I'll go. If you decide to sell it, and someone else wants it more, so be it...:D
 
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Bali,

Actually, Bob's write-up was on RMK's use of Solingen blade steel, blades made into standard Model #14's thru #18 knives, up to the mid 1970's (actually 1979) - those are not the later 'Solingen Fighter' knives like yours, made from the late 1980's thru the mid 1990's.

PI? Philippine Islands, home of the Balisong knife. Mine is a small handmade traditional version with brass hardware and stag handles...

Shel
 
Samael said:
Whoa. Twenty questions here. OK, let's see. If you don't like brass, nickel-silver is your only other option. But it's significantly more expensive.

Your knife is NOT a CDT. For most purposes, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference whether it is or isn't, but the "stock" 15s have a wider tang, which some would argue makes it more sturdy.

Stainless versus carbon steel. Well. We could go on all night about that. We average 13% humidity here, so rust is not an issue. In that case, yes, the 01 steel is better. If you're in a place where rust IS a factor, I'd look pretty hard at stainless. (Little-known factoid: It's forged 440B, which doesn't suck.)

And no, your photo looks nothing like the knife I ordered.
Click to expand...

Unless there has been a change "back" to 440B, Randall's stainless has been 440C for about 10-12 years.

If you get the "Cut Down Tang" model 15, you can't get sawteeth. I don't like sawteeth but on the Model 16 I ordered (essentially a longer #15) I requested the "Sawteeth, no teeth" option so mine will have the spearpoint blade with no teeth.

I fine the Model #15 to be slightly short for it's width. The width is fine for a #14 but seems too wide for a 5½" knife, unless you get the sawteeth option which gives you the slightly slimmer spear point blade.
 
Bruce, the word I hear from the shop is that they are, indeed, using 440B "for most knives" now, as it can be forged and the 440c apparently cannot. I'm no expert on these things, but presumably the folks at RMK are.

Sounds like you made a nice choice with your knife.
 
You guys are splitting hairs here - modern 440B steel, when RC'd will typically exceed 440C numbers, and modern 440C will often fall into the 440B range in somes tests as well...in other words, don't get hung up on the steel type used, because, factually you have no better way of knowing what it actually is than the shop does...
 
Jesus, Sheldon, you're up late.

Nobody's splitting hairs. I certainly didn't mean to imply that 440B was somehow "inferior" - it isn't. And I said in my earlier post that I'm no expert, and defer to the much more knowledgable people at Randall on these types of issues. I'm not about to argue with them about much of anything - they've been doing it right for a long time now.

Relax.
 
Samael said:
Bruce, the word I hear from the shop is that they are, indeed, using 440B "for most knives" now, as it can be forged and the 440c apparently cannot. I'm no expert on these things, but presumably the folks at RMK are.

Sounds like you made a nice choice with your knife.
Click to expand...

It must be a change back because 4-6 years ago they dropped the 440B for 440C for all knives except the #10 and #24. That was the word from the shop then. ...but they used 440C for several years, and it is forgeable. It just takes a higher forge temperature and is probably not as easy to forge as 440B. They claim in their literature a stainless steel with 1.00% carbon. This would put it right on the line between 440B and C. I'm not sure what their actual invoice from their steel supplier states.
 
call and ask! the carbon steel is Uddeholm ARNE 01 tool steel. I think the 440B is american though.
 
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