What watch do you wear?

[Kirk Raptor]

Up for adventure and searching for a sunken desk to dive on.

 

[dogboye]

Interesting thread. I didn’t look at it all. I don’t own a watch. When I was a kid, mom got me several timexes. They went dead very quick. I was told that a battery powered watch didn’t agree with my electrical charge. Dunno if that’s true or not. But I haven’t ever gotten a watch since. There are times I’d like one I think, but I don’t want a cheap timex, nor can I afford a Rolex. My buddy had a Rolex and it was real nice. But something in between would be cool. Maybe reading this thread will be a place to start my research.

The good news is that the space between Timex and Rolex is 1) huge and 2) full of great watches.

Lots of mechanical watches out there. Crazy amount of choices these days.

Is not either Timex or Rolex. Massive amount of choices in between.

Edit: I own one Timex and one Rolex. The Timex keeps better time (but not by much).

JM2 Citizen, Seiko, and even Timex, have mechanical watches available. I know the Citizan and Seiko mechanical watches can be had with atomatic winding. I'm more partial to Seiko, but Citizen is just as good, afaik. As is Timex.

Depending on the battery powered watch, and your usage, I think a battery should last only 3-5 years at most. If it is one with a light and you have it to automatically light if you tilt it toward you (many Casio/G-Shock watches can be set to do this), I THINK the battery could die even quicker. That Citizen above posted by Kirk Raptor is an eco-drive. Solar powered. As are many G-Shocks nowadays. THAT watch shouldn't die. Not for a decade or more (I believe they still have a battery that stores the solar charge, so that will die eventually).

A mechanical is going to be less accurate, unless you pay stratospheric prices for it. Money does indeed buy you accuracy with a mechanical watch. A Seico dive watch (what I'm most familiar with) is typically only set to be accurate within +20/-15 seconds PER DAY. You can adjust them yourself to make them much more accurate, though. Combine that with how you place them overnight (I don't wear my auto to bed), and you can get really great accuracy. I am wearing a Seiko Turtle that I haven't reset in a couple of months. It has currently gained about 90 seconds in that time. This is after I opened it up and adjusted it. Prior to that, it was losing about 8 seconds a day. Within specs, but not acceptable to me. As long as my automatic watch is gaining time (not losing), I don't worry about it too much unless it is way out of published specs. I'd rather be early than late.

You can DM me if you want and I can send you a couple of sources. I don't think that is allowed here in the thread, though.

Oh, and as for me, about 95% of the time, I'm wearing an automatic Seiko dive watch. Either an older SKX style with the 7s26 movement, or a Turtle with the 4r36 movement.

 

[JM2]

JM2 Citizen, Seiko, and even Timex, have mechanical watches available. I know the Citizan and Seiko mechanical watches can be had with atomatic winding. I'm more partial to Seiko, but Citizen is just as good, afaik. As is Timex.

Depending on the battery powered watch, and your usage, I think a battery should last only 3-5 years at most. If it is one with a light and you have it to automatically light if you tilt it toward you (many Casio/G-Shock watches can be set to do this), I THINK the battery could die even quicker. That Citizen above posted by Kirk Raptor is an eco-drive. Solar powered. As are many G-Shocks nowadays. THAT watch shouldn't die. Not for a decade or more (I believe they still have a battery that stores the solar charge, so that will die eventually).

A mechanical is going to be less accurate, unless you pay stratospheric prices for it. Money does indeed buy you accuracy with a mechanical watch. A Seico dive watch (what I'm most familiar with) is typically only set to be accurate within +20/-15 seconds PER DAY. You can adjust them yourself to make them much more accurate, though. Combine that with how you place them overnight (I don't wear my auto to bed), and you can get really great accuracy. I am wearing a Seiko Turtle that I haven't reset in a couple of months. It has currently gained about 90 seconds in that time. This is after I opened it up and adjusted it. Prior to that, it was losing about 8 seconds a day. Within specs, but not acceptable to me. As long as my automatic watch is gaining time (not losing), I don't worry about it too much unless it is way out of published specs. I'd rather be early than late.

You can DM me if you want and I can send you a couple of sources. I don't think that is allowed here in the thread, though.

Oh, and as for me, about 95% of the time, I'm wearing an automatic Seiko dive watch. Either an older SKX style with the 7s26 movement, or a Turtle with the 4r36 movement.View attachment 1846996

Thank you for the information. I’m dumb on watches. It’ll take a reread or two for me to digest all of that. I think I’d rather have a mechanical watch. But I don’t know much else.

Also what is DM?

 

[ec9]

 

[dogboye]

Thank you for the information. I’m dumb on watches. It’ll take a reread or two for me to digest all of that. I think I’d rather have a mechanical watch. But I don’t know much else.

Also what is DM?

Direct message. On here. Although now that I think about it, you might have to be a paying member to have messaging capability.

JM2 I just dropped a message in your profile with a suggestion.

 

[ec9]

Thank you for the information. I’m dumb on watches. It’ll take a reread or two for me to digest all of that. I think I’d rather have a mechanical watch. But I don’t know much else.

Also what is DM?

If you find a mechanical with a 2824/2836/7750/6497 mvmt in it, it will last you forever with proper care. Every single one I have that I've regulated are +2/-2 seconds a day. Not sure if Lum-Tec is still popular around here but they were always a solid choice with lots of options and swiss/japan mvmts.

 

[mrknife]

Interesting thread. I didn’t look at it all. I don’t own a watch. When I was a kid, mom got me several timexes. They went dead very quick. I was told that a battery powered watch didn’t agree with my electrical charge. Dunno if that’s true or not. But I haven’t ever gotten a watch since. There are times I’d like one I think, but I don’t want a cheap timex, nor can I afford a Rolex. My buddy had a Rolex and it was real nice. But something in between would be cool. Maybe reading this thread will be a place to start my research.

there are lots of wonderful watches at different price points and budgets. A rolex is not necessarily a great watch tbh, for some folks its just a status symbol. they dont care about its history, or performance.

 

[JM2]

Direct message. On here. Although now that I think about it, you might have to be a paying member to have messaging capability.

JM2 I just dropped a message in your profile with a suggestion.

Okay I see. I got the message. I said thanks on my page. But I don’t know if that shows to you as a notification that I replied.

 

[ec9]

there are lots of wonderful watches at different price points and budgets. A rolex is not necessarily a great watch tbh, for some folks its just a status symbol. they dont care about its history, or performance.

True story, Rolex knows how to market. They are not the end all be all. Patek Philippe might be though lol I own a bit of everything but the watch I've been most impressed with the last few years is my 42mm SMP. It's METAS certified (15,000-gauss).

 

[JM2]

So my question is, what makes a good watch vs a not good one?

I mean, let’s say for a knife, I see the value of a schrade USA old timer over a China brand frosts. And I can see that a GEC is better fit finish and materials over the old timer. But the old timer is the starting level of quality users, and for a knife to be used, it’s hard to beat.

So what’s the starting level of quality watches? And how do I know where the cutoff point is that the price is just additional embellishment over quality?

I was looking at a Seiko dive something. It was about $500. I like the specs I seen. I like waterproof and stainless. No reference as to where it’s made.

I have no faith in a knife made in China... should I feel the same about watches?

 

[ec9]

So my question is, what makes a good watch vs a not good one?

I mean, let’s say for a knife, I see the value of a schrade USA old timer over a China brand frosts. And I can see that a GEC is better fit finish and materials over the old timer. But the old timer is the starting level of quality users, and for a knife to be used, it’s hard to beat.

So what’s the starting level of quality watches? And how do I know where the cutoff point is that the price is just additional embellishment over quality?

I was looking at a Seiko dive something. It was about $500. I like the specs I seen. I like waterproof and stainless. No reference as to where it’s made.

I have no faith in a knife made in China... should I feel the same about watches?

IMO

1. Time keeping
2. Fit & finish

Decide on a budget first then look at the best options in that price range. You can find a miyota 9015 that will run and run but you'll hear the rotor spin on your wrist. Even the Swiss movements have different grades in the same movements depending on model. Swiss doesn't necessarily mean it's silly costly. A 2824 replacement movement is about 200.00

 

[Locutus D'Borg]

The Chinese Seagull 1963 is the most common Chinese watch and is available in various materials on Amazon. Mine cost $200 - 300 (I forgot the price) a couple yearss ago and it is the acrylic model, with an exhibition back. The Seagull mechanical movement is used by many other inexpensive brands.

The bottom photo is the back of this Seagull and my Patek, which is an auto (it has the gold rotor). The Patek photo is blurred and has sweat on it, I just took it off for the pic.

FYI, I have a nice Rolex, a nice Patek, a nice Cartier, the Seagull, and a quartz chrono by Corniche (French). I rotate them.

 

[Pepesdad]

Usually wear my Cartier Tank Francaise or my Aquastar Regate...have a number of other Cartier watches and a Hamilton GCT 4992B pocket watch, which belonged to my father during WW2.

 

[mrknife]

It depends on what you want from the watch. For example, if you care only for accuracy, then a $20 battery powered quartz casio will be a fine time piece. However if you appreciate mechanical timepieces, some starting price points maybe $200+. That will be in the seiko 7s26 which is not the most accurate but it is a work horse. For about $500, you are getting into the better seiko movement range with the 6r movements. However you may find the japanese watch movements with rather loud rotors from time to time. The watch i wear to the hospital for work has a miyota movement but works fine.

 

[dogboye]

Okay I see. I got the message. I said thanks on my page. But I don’t know if that shows to you as a notification that I replied.

I did get notification. Also, someone mentioned Seagull 1963. That link I messaged you carries those.

So my question is, what makes a good watch vs a not good one?

I mean, let’s say for a knife, I see the value of a schrade USA old timer over a China brand frosts. And I can see that a GEC is better fit finish and materials over the old timer. But the old timer is the starting level of quality users, and for a knife to be used, it’s hard to beat.

So what’s the starting level of quality watches? And how do I know where the cutoff point is that the price is just additional embellishment over quality?

I was looking at a Seiko dive something. It was about $500. I like the specs I seen. I like waterproof and stainless. No reference as to where it’s made.

I have no faith in a knife made in China... should I feel the same about watches?

IIRC, all Seikos are made in Japan or Singapore. Or at least they were. I got my SKX range about a decade ago; I did not pay for Japan movements. One of those I opened and adjusted. It is a 7s26 movement, and it runs about -1sec/day. So they CAN be quite accurate... but they typically aren't adjusted that tightly. As said, though, they are work-horses. Tough watches.

It depends on what you want from the watch. For example, if you care only for accuracy, then a $20 battery powered quartz casio will be a fine time piece. However if you appreciate mechanical timepieces, some starting price points maybe $200+. That will be in the seiko 7s26 which is not the most accurate but it is a work horse. For about $500, you are getting into the better seiko movement range with the 6r movements. However you may find the japanese watch movements with rather loud rotors from time to time. The watch i wear to the hospital for work has a miyota movement but works fine.

True statement. You're going to be hard pressed to get a more accurate watch over time than a quartz watch. As long as you keep replacing batteries. The only way you're going to do better than that (probably) is to get a temperature adjusted quartz watch. But the only one that I currently know that adjusts accuracy of the quartz signal based on temperature costs upwards of $3,000. Or did years ago. I'm sure it is probably double that now.

If you're looking purely at accuracy, reliability, longevity, and carefree.... you probably want to look at a 5 (or 6)-band-radio-regulated solar-powered Casio G-Shock. Depending on where you live, it will tune in to one of the broadcast atomic clock signals once every day, and automatically set your watch to the correct time, if it has drifted. A decent one of those... well, I don't know how much a decent one goes for nowadays. I haven't bought one in nearly a decade. And it still updates nightly, and keeps perfect time. Even adjusts for daylight savings time changes.

 

[JM2]

I appreciate you letting me know you received a notification.

I certainly done need accuracy of an atomic watch. Since I don’t know anything about watches, and am just beginning to investigate it, I’m not real sure what I need or want. Frankly I don’t need a watch. I do want one I think though.

So I gather they different makers buy the same movements and install it in a watch body. I didn’t know that.

Work horse described the other things I like. I want a watch that needs minimal or no maintenance, waterproof, and I’m fine if once in a while I have to reset it because it’s a minute or two off. I prefer a non battery watch.

Keeping track of time when hunting (if I have to be back), or just wandering around in a store, is really all I need. Basic stuff.

I’d rather pay $200 than $500. But if I can figure out what I’m looking for, and pay $50-$100 off eBay for a used but good quality user, that’s what I really prefer.

 

[ec9]

I appreciate you letting me know you received a notification.

I certainly done need accuracy of an atomic watch. Since I don’t know anything about watches, and am just beginning to investigate it, I’m not real sure what I need or want. Frankly I don’t need a watch. I do want one I think though.

So I gather they different makers buy the same movements and install it in a watch body. I didn’t know that.

Work horse described the other things I like. I want a watch that needs minimal or no maintenance, waterproof, and I’m fine if once in a while I have to reset it because it’s a minute or two off. I prefer a non battery watch.

Keeping track of time when hunting (if I have to be back), or just wandering around in a store, is really all I need. Basic stuff.

I’d rather pay $200 than $500. But if I can figure out what I’m looking for, and pay $50-$100 off eBay for a used but good quality user, that’s what I really prefer.

Unlimited options!

 

[JM2]

Unlimited options!

View attachment 1847133

Wow that’s cool. Maybe I should consider a pocket watch. I’ll have to think about that. It may be more my style. I like traditional knives and I carry a revolver.

 

[ec9]

Wow that’s cool. Maybe I should consider a pocket watch. I’ll have to think about that. It may be more my style. I like traditional knives and I carry a revolver.

That one I found in Bolivia. I got it for a good price and did a tear down and service then engraved my initials on the back. It's dated 1860'ish. The Hamilton Railroad models are a pretty popular choice too, cool porcelain dials. Most will still fit in a jean 5th pocket. I carry mine that way. Doubles as a fidget toy too.

 

[dogboye]

I appreciate you letting me know you received a notification.

I certainly done need accuracy of an atomic watch. Since I don’t know anything about watches, and am just beginning to investigate it, I’m not real sure what I need or want. Frankly I don’t need a watch. I do want one I think though.

So I gather they different makers buy the same movements and install it in a watch body. I didn’t know that.

Work horse described the other things I like. I want a watch that needs minimal or no maintenance, waterproof, and I’m fine if once in a while I have to reset it because it’s a minute or two off. I prefer a non battery watch.

Keeping track of time when hunting (if I have to be back), or just wandering around in a store, is really all I need. Basic stuff.

I’d rather pay $200 than $500. But if I can figure out what I’m looking for, and pay $50-$100 off eBay for a used but good quality user, that’s what I really prefer.

You can get a Citizen dive watch with an automatic Japan-made movement for the mid-$200s. In Seiko, you need to go to a Seiko 5 to get into that price range. There you can get a dive-STYLE watch, but they are only water-resistant to 100m, it appears. If you move up to the $300s range, you can actually get a Seiko Japan movement dive watch. Screw-down crown, 200m water resistance.
Hamilton has some reasonably priced automatic watches, but most of them are "field" watches. About 100m water resistance, no rotating dive bezel. I like the dive bezel, because I can easily time things like steak, chicken, burgers on the grill, things like that. Makes the watch handier. But you're not going to be timing to the second.
Orient is another Japan (I think) company that makes good automatic watches. And Lum-Tec, mentioned earlier, has some mechanical movements as well.