What would you choose ...............

I have seen screw construction where the screw head was intentionally ground smooth with the handles which mimicked the look of pins more or less.

Uncommon hardwoods tend to be my favorite. Blade design and spring tension should be designed to allow pinch-open and not require a nail nick.
 
Wow, thank you for the responses. Keep them coming. To answer a few of the concerns/questions:
I love traditional knives, and of those mostly slipjoints, so that is all I have in my collection. I do not have any any screwed constuction knives, and am not a big fan of them. However, others are. As a designer I will have to look at what pleases others, and then come up with a design that pleases me as well.
The owners of the company are big collectors of traditional knives, hence the thought of producing that type of knife. They are very active in the knife busyness and have noticed that there is a growing interest by modern knife buyers in the modernized traditional style.
Since all the parts are produced in house, relatively small runs can be produced. Any blade steel is possible, but requires a minimum of about 200 similar blades to be economical. Handle materials can be natural, but can also include carbon fiber, micarta, G10, titanium and others. Very small batches of each can be produced. They are doing this now for the modern knives in current production.
I am sure they are not looking at this to turn into a huge market share, but are considering the need to offer a varied portfolio of knife styles and designs.
 
I'd like to see what I think is called a Gunstock shaped knife the with a 3.25" California clip and a caplifter/screwdriver/saw at 3.25". I like micarta, especially in the burgandy color, but any color would be great as long as it isn't loud
What I'm asking for is similar to the Puma Pocket Hunter II with the difference in main blade and scales
While it would be a sizeable knife, the California clip is such that even at the size indicated it could handle small blade chores as well as the benefits of the longer edge.
 
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I tell you what I can't find is a good Swayback as for materials for bolsters, scales, and etc just anything with a classic look or something gentlemanly take the Lionsteel Roundhead for example. The blade material just something modern nothing against the traditional SS but it is knife to see something else used as long as it is equal to or better than the typical SS used.
 
Why not 2 or 3 blades? For myself, and I am sure I am not alone, one of the big draws for a traditional knife is the choice of more than one blade.
My favorite patterns are the Stockman (3 7/8 or larger, please) Canoe, large Sunfish, Barlow (with 2 blades, Clip, Spear, or Sheepsfoot main with a pen secondary. Although I suppose a Clip main with a full size Sheepsfoot would find itself in my pocket quite often.)

I'll shut up now.
 
I think that the Lionsteel Roundhead will be perfect for a single blade barlow, and I'm not that into barlows, so I won't suggest one.

The single blader that I really want is a Sodbuster Jr. in .085" full height hollow ground CPM-3V. Yellow Delrin, micarta, or wood. I don't like G10. The SBJ is ergonomically perfect.

A teardrop might be cool, too. Or A larger back pocket style knife. The steels I'm interested in, though, are M390 and CPM-3V.

If you decide to do 2 blades, I've got all kinds of suggestions ;)
 
With those parameters, I would go for a gunstock with a Zulu blade shape. CPM154 would be a nice stainless steel, my first carbon choice would be 52100. I love popcorn stag, though nice two tone wood like Ebony would be good too.
 
A sodbuster style knife with a clip point blade, 3 3/4 inches long, m390 or CTS-XHP steel, thin blade stock. Micarta, g10, bone, stag, wood, or carbon fiber would all work for me. Half stop as well.
 
I really like trying out the latest and greatest exotic steels and I would be very interested.

I'd like to see something in the 3.5-3.75 range on a Trapper frame or a serpentine frame.

Wickedly sharp thin ground California clip blade.

Leave the steel as ground and all stainless hardware. I would prefer a natural wood or stag.
 
Very interesting challenge.

A single blade? Good idea, you could try a Slimline Trapper or a Laguiole type knife, a Barehead Toothpick could be an idea. All stainless liners and bolster both of which are polished, no shield but let's max the screws, use four nicely distributed. Smooth Bone slabs which could either be Ivory colour or some type of Apolossa mottled.

Actually, let's opt for a Eureka pattern single-blade as seen on GEC's 92, Barehead a must. As above and with Rat-Tail polished bolster and liners, long pull Spear with matte finish, ATS 34, AUS 8, 154 or similar but must be ground thin. Looking forward to trialing the prototype shortly:D

Regards, Will
 
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Queen make a #41 Copperhead. It's been my favourite knife though I'm selling it now for financial reasons. :( Recently the Queen 'higher end' marque, Schatt and Morgan, did a run of the same knife with ATS-34 steel, similar to 154CM. The single review I've seen is that the F&F is typically Queen unfortunately.

Trestle Pines and Tuna Valley make some modern steel knives (154cm) on Queen patterns. The production is by Queen.

Lionsteel are making the Euro Barlow which you will have already seen.

Thought it might be interesting to note some other current options for a more 'modern' traditional currently in the market.

What would I create differently if I had the choice? A single blade Trapper in S35VN with ebony handles. Similar to the new Boker Trapper Classic in Bog Oak or a GEC #48 pattern but with far better steel in a thin FFG blade.

Another choice might be a Sodbuster type pattern with CPM-3V steel in a FFG blade. Not too thick a blade, it doesn't need it! A hard work knife with a hard work outdoors steel. This style might well suit the screw construction also.

G-dspeed with your endeavour! The more modern slipjoints on the market the better for the industry!
 
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I'd love the following:

3.5" closed similar to a Trapper shape
Stag or micarta scales
Stainless liners & bolsters on both ends
Possibly a simple logo on top bolsters
California clip S35VN blade steel
Long pull (I prefer over nail nick)
Lanyard tube through bottom bolster
Thinner the better ;)
Bonus points if it's a lockback
 
JB in SC said:
Enrique Peña has made trappers with screw construction but even he doesn't recommend a user disassemble the knife. His reasoning for that type of construction was to enable a maker to service and clean the knife without tearing it apart and risking it not going back together properly (or damaging an expensive cover material). Don Hanson III does some as well, but they cost $2500 and up.

I don't think it would be as easy as it sounds to offer interchangeable parts that have any level of precision fitting. I do see it as a method of offering various styles, handles, liners as options in the original ordering/fitting process. Blades on slip joints are pretty difficult to get flush at all three positions, I don't see it as being any easier with a screw together construction. As critical as most traditional buyers are, ill fitting parts would not be appreciated.
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You're correct. I took the blade out of a Benchmade Proper, and it was a nightmare to get back in under spring tension. Not like doing a kickback or liner/frame lock.

I think screw construction is likely to keep it easy for modern manufacturers to keep up with their workflow and tolerances.
 
JupiterPaladin said:
I'd love the following:

3.5" closed similar to a Trapper shape
Stag or micarta scales
Stainless liners & bolsters on both ends
Possibly a simple logo on top bolsters
California clip S35VN blade steel
Long pull (I prefer over nail nick)
Lanyard tube through bottom bolster
Thinner the better ;)
Bonus points if it's a lockback
Click to expand...
One thing to note is that there is a quite a few folks out there that don't like a lock back on the very butt of the handle. When groped firmly, you risk unlocking the knife, and it can create a hot spot.

I actually like a lock back design but the lock should be placed mid-palm.

This lowers the pressure exerted on the unlocking mechanism, doesn't negatively effect the ergonomics or lock-up. If anything, a shorter spring could offer a stiffer locking and unlocking, or conversely the longer spring can offer more finesse while tuning at the factory.
 
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