What would you choose ...............

[Butch]

A bolstered Sodbuster. Something that looks like a Northwoods Madison Barlow.
Stainless liners and bolsters. Micarta and/or G10 scales. Offer it with three different blade shapes: clip, traditional Sodbuster style drop point, or a
Sheepsfoot. Maybe a version with a secondary pen blade or caplifter.

Edit: I second the above mentioned lanyard tube and mid-lock.

Edit #2: size-wise, split the difference between the regular Sodbuster and the junior.

 

[Wowbagger]

What would you like to see in an US factory produced slipjoint if you had the choice of any blade steel, liners, bolster material and covers. The only given would be screwed construction, and an internal stop pin for the blade. Patterns, are open as well, but must be a single blade. I would very much appreciate your thoughts and desires.

Wolfe

OK I’ll bite :

• Blade material M4
• Blade Shape same as Case full size Trapper
• Length a bit longer than Trapper; between 3 1/4 to 3 1/2”
• Blade finish full polish like the Case (cuts very well); I supose I could live with stone washed; plane ground is my third choice.

• PS: blade etched like Boker does I would pay more for; they do a first rate job with that in my book.
• PPS: I almost forgot blade thickness. This could have been disastrous ! Thanks for reminding me(I've been reading the rest of the thread). BLADE THICKNESS NO MORE THAN 2 MMM. Or LESS; LESS WOULD BE BETTER.

• Liners Brass nicely finished like Case does them (not like Boker does them; raggedy and half assed).
• Handle shape same as Case Trapper; thick though like the two blade not thin like the single blade.
• Scales fatish like the Case real Stag but bone that has been dyed very dark green with a black(ish) outer layer like Boker’s Trapper. Fine feather texture like Boker’s I REALLY LIKE THAT AND LOOKS GREAT ! ! ! !

OK that about covers it. Knock your selves out.
And I'll start saving up to buy one.

 

[Wowbagger]

They are willing o use any blade steel, a big plus for those who would like to see steel not offered by any other manufacturer.

That may be but I have had some great experiences with M4 and if the heat treat wound up being poor back the knife would go. THIS IS CRITICAL ! Don't fool around with the heat treat.
Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy
I can hardly wait. Killer steel in a useful handle shape ! ! ! !
yahyahyahyah ! ! !
I must be dreaming this

 

[Wowbagger]

They positively prevent the blade edge from contacting the spring.

you mean like one of my Cold Steel Luckys contacts the blade spring . . . well actually one of the screws. T's me OFF ! I have to always remember to close it easy. Weird stuff.

 

[Wowbagger]

one of the big draws for a traditional knife is the choice of more than one blade.

or . . . is a single blade traditional an "Opportunity" to carry more than one knife.
. . . I'm just saying . . .

Most of my full size two blade trappers I have removed the second blade. It gets in the way of the grip / use of the knife.

 

[Dean51]

I think you'll have two types of buyers for this knife. Modern users who finally want a smaller knife that can cut well and traditional users who want a better stainless steel. I would stay away from smaller patterns or you will loose the modern users. By that same line of thinking stay away from the larger patterns so you can keep a lot of the not as traditional users.

I would not do carbon steel or the more common steels like 440C. I wouldn't think hard core traditionalist will not buy this and modern users will like a good stainless.

I would stay away from titanium and carbon fiber, to keep the cost down on a new venture like this. These can always be added to the line on the second release, as a special run.

1. stainless liners and bolsters.
2. Single bolster large enough to accommodate two screws.
3. 3 3/4” closed
4. M390 It's popular, proven, stainless and holds a great edge.
5. .090 at the thickest part of the spine. Thin .015 behind the edge.
6. Distal taper, clip blade with enough blade that it could be pinched open. Perhaps a E/O notch. Spear was just done you need to be different.
7. Round on both ends like a GEC #78 American Jack. It'll carry better in the pocket with rounded ends.
8. G10, wood, Micarta