What would you like in a hiking back packing knife

How about something really light weight.

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Its the Hiking buddy pattern with a stick tang. It is a LOT lighter than a full tang HB. In fact, I have both in the batch with the same thickness steel. This one is way lighter. I'll try to weigh them.
 
Hey Andy, I have a Postage scale and would be willing to weigh them for you. ;) Looking good!
 
dam it Andy I started this thread to try and sell MY knives you have sold enough to day you go some wear els.
 
Talfuchre said:
Dan,

Answer my question - I want to help.
TF
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sorry I thought I had, for the purpose of this thread I am thinking A.T. type trial hiking. I too prefer "off trial" hiking but that is an conversation for later usually involving a 2-3 blade combo. . Rest ashore I will be having that conversation soon, possible because i have some bush crafting bad assery in the grinder stack, and a two blade comob set waiting for sheath work. so let us think trail hiking
 
Well - to be honest - when hiking an AT and the like- you need a blade that is light - but diverse. You also need a decent blade for when the SHTF.

So - when I hike a known trail and worry about weight - a SAK Farmer on a pocket clip is enough. It has a saw, Blade, and a few other tricks.

However - thinking staight blade -

Think simplicity and diversity.

I like the simplicity of the ESEE Izula II. It has a huge hole in the end for a carabiner - has a blade coating to worry little about rusting (1095 steel). - a almost 4 inch handle and a 2 1/2 inch blade.


So - here is what I am thinking for a design you can try.

1) Stainless Steel.
2) Full convex for a sharpening system that would amount to rolled sand paper or a rolled strop.
3) 4 Inch Handle.
4) 3 inch blade - somewhere near.
5) Spear point or drop point.
6) Either thin scales or removable scales.
7) Squared spine for firesteel.

No need for thumb jimping or anything special. Simple kydex sheath.

That is my thinking.

TF
 
I hiked some 10 mile sections of the AT when i was up there a couple of months ago. I carried Andy's bushcrafter. I loved having the capability of such a great knife, but it was a little hard to carry at times. I like to carry my knives baldric style, so its easier to carry bigger blades.

When i go backpacking, i dont really use my knife as much as i plan to. Its different than going bushcrafting where i use my knife for just about everything.

I like carbon steel much more than stainless, but that is my preference, 1/8" blade stock is ideal to me. Its perfect for both convex and scandi knives, so you could do both. Instead of a spear point, which i usually prefer, i think a strait back blade would do well. Another blade style i love is the wharncliffe. its perfect for woodwork. super easy to sharpen. The reason i like carbon steel knives more is because of the ease of sharpening. 01 tool steel is also pretty cheap, but preforms like a high end steel in my opinion. also, you can use the back of the blade with a piece of flint to create sparks if you need a fire. Not necessary but i like to have redundancy in my hiking kits.

Now since i got my ESEE Izula 2, i carry it with me more than my full sized knives when hiking. I like the size of the Izula, but the handle shape isnt very comfortable. I believe a 3" or 3 1/2" blade could handle any job in the woods. 4" handle fits my hand perfectly.

I have the KFU Wide blade EDC, and that is the absolute perfect size for a backpacking knife. Im just not a fan of the sheath. I cant decide if i should get kydex or leather. anyways, that handle shape and thickness is perfect.

I completely agree with Tal's insight also
 
bdmicarta said:
Weight is important though. I have a lot of experience and know what to take but when I've had newer people go with me I have dumped out their packs and gone through them item by item to make sure they aren't taking unnecessary items.
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you didnt make them leave the whiskey behind did you??? :D
 
Here is what I have learned about pack weight. Want to loose weight off your total hiking set up FAST - loose some damned weight.

I would rather sleep better and take a few ounces more - and loose a few pounds to do it - rather than cut the handle off my toothbrush so I can save a few grams when I brush my fat teeth.

TF
 
dogwood dan said:
Thanks for the info! I hope you enjoy the side kick, I used the same blade profile on my trail hiker. Andy and I have been working with some hidden tang desinges to cut waight. How do you feel about 1/8" blades?
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I prefer 3/32. For light weight, and also cuz I'm unlikely to do heavy work when backpacking. More important that it slice food and cord, and whittle well.
 
I'd go with a 1/8" thickness, 4-4.5" drop point scandi zero in some high end stainless, i.e. s30v with a good ht (convex & cpm3v if I'm gonna be practising/simulating a lot of survival activities) and with micarta/g10 handles
 
When I go backpack camping, I use my knife heavily at camp set up, then again at meal time and fire prep times. So, for me, my knife has to be as maintenance free as possible while I'm out, got too much other stuff I want to do. It has to be heavy duty enough to process some kindling and handle batoning. It has to have a lot of ability to weight ratio, and it has to have a good, functional sheath that makes carrying it easy. The size for me is a 4" blade that is heavy enough to pound on when processing wood. I could care less about multiple handle materials etc. I'd probably like to see numerous pins in there though to give me confidence that the handles won't rattle loose during batoning. Personally, I like micarta.

My Falkniven F1 is about as close to the ideal backpacking knife as I've come, but there are several areas that could be improved upon for me. Mostly in the handle area. Every now and then, I find myself having to do some serious carving to make something I need and I don't like a couple of areas of the handle. I'm going on a 28 mile AT hike at the end of May with my son and would love to evaluate a prototype for you (hint, hint).
 
jcoffman55 said:
When I go backpack camping, I use my knife heavily at camp set up, then again at meal time and fire prep times. So, for me, my knife has to be as maintenance free as possible while I'm out, got too much other stuff I want to do. It has to be heavy duty enough to process some kindling and handle batoning. It has to have a lot of ability to weight ratio, and it has to have a good, functional sheath that makes carrying it easy. The size for me is a 4" blade that is heavy enough to pound on when processing wood. I could care less about multiple handle materials etc. I'd probably like to see numerous pins in there though to give me confidence that the handles won't rattle loose during batoning. Personally, I like micarta.

My Falkniven F1 is about as close to the ideal backpacking knife as I've come, but there are several areas that could be improved upon for me. Mostly in the handle area. Every now and then, I find myself having to do some serious carving to make something I need and I don't like a couple of areas of the handle. I'm going on a 28 mile AT hike at the end of May with my son and would love to evaluate a prototype for you (hint, hint).
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did you see the new hiker I was working at the shop? I thought you would hold out for the grizzly (the curved chopper) I am going to make a 3" companion blade that will share the sheath with it for light work and sell them as a matched set. I will of course I will require lots and lots of pictures. Let me see how the run up for blade show goes it is time I did another pass around
 
I'd love to see the set. I'm still drooling over the butcher/boning sets you showed me. I need to come by anyway. I'll be picking up the photos of giving the filet knife away Monday. I'd like to bring them by for you and Andy to check out. It was a special night for all involved.
 
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