What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I've only attempted four kydex sheaths. For one knife I just couldn't make it work at all. For one knife it actually worked well. For two it was pretty meh where it kind of worked but not great. It has me wondering if kydex just isn't right for every kind of knife, and has me thinking about trying dabbling at leather.
 
If I experience drag on high points of my kydex sheaths I try opening them up a little with a heat gun. Once heated work the area with a pencil or rod of similar size. Have a bowl of ice water near by or put the lower half of the sheath in the water while heating the trouble area. Maybe use the extra sheath for practice. Most my kydex sheaths need a little finagling with a heat gun after being pressed. Hope that helps.
 
Kydex is one of those things that anyone can make, but to make it great takes some experience. Lots of great videos on Youtube to help with all the tips and tricks.
 
Temperature control, good quality foam and enough pressure can make or break a good fit. I often relieve some areas as well with a heat gun if it's too tight.
The good thing about kydex is it's forgiving so unless you burn it, you can often start all over.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
Thanks for the information guys. This stuff is driving me nuts. I've had to make two sheaths so far. I was hoping I wouldn't have to modify the knife at all, but that might be the only option thus far.

I could have sworn I saw a kydex tutorial where a guy put extra tape over the ricasso area of his knife in order for it not to drag. I love how kydex functions retention-wise, but this situation is making leather look rather appealing.
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I think you'll find that you need to ever so slightly round off your edges even if your using leather. I use leather exclusively for my sheaths, and while I'm far from good at leatherwork, I find that tight fitting sheathes require the edges of the knife rounded a bit. If I don't the squared edges will shred the inside of the sheath similarly to how your kydex sheath is.
 
I ended up taking a diamond needle file to the sharp corners and it seemed to do the trick. I'm gonna need to figure out a way to get beveling done that leaves a finer/nicer finish than my files though...
 
Kuraki, you're making me wish my shop was bigger...:(

Decided to give leatherwork a shot. My first and second sheaths, I'll let you figure out which came first. :D Same leather on both btw.
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Here she is. Not perfect but nothing major. I need tho make a new draw bar and replace a couple handles and hook up a vfd. Eventually add a DRO. This thing has box ways!

Went with the wrecker idea. He set it inn my shop for 85 bucks and I slid it into place with the neighbors skid steer.

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I've been working on this tanto for quite some time, between many other knives for orders. I greatly underestimated the amount of time all the hand work the fittings required. I made 4 attempts at a habaki before i got to one that i was happy with. The hamon isn't stellar, but I wasn't even sure it would show one at all, so i'm happy with it. i may do some more etching/ polishing to see if i can get any more out of it. The steel is 1080. IMG_20170905_175736361_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg IMG_20170906_093909235.jpg IMG_20170906_105049863.jpg
 
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