What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

My grinder plans included this feature of having 0 and 45° (metric) indexing of tilt of the support table. I did not want bother with it originally but then I did it and it feels quite satisfying - who knew a ball end mill and a ball detent go together so well.

(click for video, not sure why embedding does not work here)

https://imgur.com/rgLNsD8
 
IMG_8742.jpeg
Just getting started. Not sure which handle will go on this, but that piece of stabilized burl is the hardest sumbitch I’ve worked with in a long while (not fun working it by hand).
Once the gold wire gets here I’ll decide which handle looks better with it.
 
It’s supposed to storm tomorrow so I decided to rough the handle in today while I could keep the shop opened up. I wish I had started the palm swell about 1/4”-3/8” farther forward. It’s by no means uncomfortable but it looks a bit off. I ran the hardness down too. It was around 64HRC, now it’s between 60-61 HRC. Preliminary fit up looks pretty good. The flow is a little off but I knew it would be when I substituted the new blade in. I think I can get it pretty close though. I’ve learned a ton over the past week working on it.

IMG_1346.jpeg
 
Taz said:
You're gonna like it Linus! Setup isn't too bad on it, either! The instruction manual with mine was pretty straight forward and their customer service usually replies pretty quickly! They helped me wire up my first laser module to the control board.
Click to expand...
The set up isn't a problem. I got it done today along with a few test cuts. IMG_7944.jpeg
 
DanF said:
View attachment 3106197
Just getting started. Not sure which handle will go on this, but that piece of stabilized burl is the hardest sumbitch I’ve worked with in a long while (not fun working it by hand).
Once the gold wire gets here I’ll decide which handle looks better with it.
Click to expand...
Absolutely the dark one. It will polish well and show the gold.
 
Sounds right Stacy.
I am going to ebonize the maple and use silver wire on that one first as practice before I touch the gold wire for the other.
 
Almost done!! It was a little warmer, so I spent some time in the shop. Note to self, I need to find what outlets are on what circuit! When doing kydex sheaths and using my toaster oven, my space heater is on the same circuit, so I have to run off the space heater when doing kydex sheaths. Which sucked because I had 8 to do, so it took a while!

Wrapped the blades to shape the handles:
PXL_20260214_211823510.jpg

Clean up the blade grinds after the handle shaping is done:
MBBO Blades.jpg

Lots of Holstex and 1 kydex:
MBBO Sheath.jpg

MBBO 1.2.jpgMBBO1.jpg

Waiting on more DCC clips to set the sheath retention for easy drawing from the pocket sheath. Then it's clean up the blade and etch the logo and get some Tung Oil on the handles! Now I gotta start some FBBO's!
 
midnight soda said:
Been looking for a lathe in decent condition for a good price for years now, but never pulled the trigger. In the middle of another project (will post once finished, or at least once I have most of the parts made) I was thinking about possibly needing one to tune a fit. Didn't find anything that matched my criteria (which, granted were/are quite unrealistic, was hoping to get lucky) when I realized that I already have a 'lathe', just no chuck for it. Fast forward a week or so, and I bought a cheap ebay-chuck, and made a backplate to go onto an iso40/sk40 shell mill holder, to go into the horizontal spindle of the mill.

tNTsuq9.jpeg

jxScmXH.jpeg

ryiC48w.jpeg


I measured the runout right behind the jaws, and it came out to around 0,05mm (that'd be ~2 thou) which I'm completely fine with, considering the quality of the chuck, and it being an independent 4 jaw, I can tune in the parts, should they need it.

Edit: I tuned it in a bit since then, and managed to get the runout down to around 0,036-0,038mm (around ~1,5 thou). At one point I had it down to 0,024, but that was at the start of a 2-3-hour session of loosening the screws, moving stuff around, clocking the whole chuck, and at that point I figured I could get someething better still. Fast forward a few hours, and I was more than happy with the end result, even with never having exceeded my I think second or third try, after being beaten down by the passage of time. That, and standing in the same place in front of the mill, leaning over slightly, and not knowing enough to interpret the inconsistent readings.
Click to expand...
Made a tool holder for the 'lathe' today, so I don't have to re-tram the vise each time I need a tool at a non-90° angle
It interfaces with a block of steel that I can clamp into the vise via M20 bolt.
YKTPyWQ.jpeg

ukzVtZ7.jpeg

aftoZ5V.jpeg

It was quite cold in the shop, to the blue didn't turn out great sadly, but at least it should work for rust prevention, I hope.
 
It’s been too cold lately for me to forge otherwise I’d try my hand at making a filet knife with an integral bolster. To me, those always make a filet knife look neater.
 
midnight soda said:
Made a tool holder for the 'lathe' today, so I don't have to re-tram the vise each time I need a tool at a non-90° angle
It interfaces with a block of steel that I can clamp into the vise via M20 bolt.
YKTPyWQ.jpeg

ukzVtZ7.jpeg

aftoZ5V.jpeg

It was quite cold in the shop, to the blue didn't turn out great sadly, but at least it should work for rust prevention, I hope.
Click to expand...

These are the things i really like to see...all the little jigs and contraptions people make to do a specific job for them. We need a thread just for these type tools (there may be one but i just haven't seen it...if there is, let me know!)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top